Axeman Anderson 1959 130M

My advice is to give it more time.

That's the current plan Larry!

Thanks. -Don

Don, did you check the calibration of the anthrastat?

Hi Don Axeman does sell a rebuild kit for that ashing solenoid.

SD, once you go digital controls you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
Beside a set-point display you'll have a 'real time' temp display and also gain an adjustable hysterisis.

McGiever wrote: ↑

Wed. Oct. 17, 2018 9:24 am

SD, once you go digital controls you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
Beside a set-point display you'll have a 'real time' temp display and also gain an adjustable hysterisis.

And you can likely accomplish this for far less than the cost of a new Anthrastat.

I couldn’t imagine running mine without it..

ziggy87 wrote: ↑

Wed. Oct. 17, 2018 7:33 am

Hi Don Axeman does sell a rebuild kit for that ashing solenoid.

I took a quick look through the parts list but didn't see it. Here it is so you can look for yourself. The solenoid is pretty simple, slug, spring and sleeve. The slug and sleeve could ware causing binding. The spring could get weak or brake.

And there is the 115 volt / 60Hz coil. If that doesn't work. it's smoked.

-Don

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Wed. Oct. 17, 2018 6:24 am

Don, did you check the calibration of the anthrastat?

I am not in the camp that think calibrating the Anthrastat is completely necessary. In reality, it doesn't really matter what number the knob is pointing at as long as the fire is at the right height.

In this case I probable should calibrate it since I am posting the results here. I will probably wait until we get it dialed in first.

-Don

McGiever wrote: ↑

Wed. Oct. 17, 2018 9:24 am

SD, once you go digital controls you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
Beside a set-point display you'll have a 'real time' temp display and also gain an adjustable hysterisis.

I will get them, I'm just not going to let them "control" anything just yet. I have decades of experience with all kinds of electronics and the Chinese controls just don't give me the "warm & fuzzy feeling" of the old tried and true Honeywell controls.

They will have to earn my respect as standby controls first.

As long as we are talking about it, this is the PID I will probably order.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Temperature-Cont ... ller&psc=1

110 volt LED's
https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-AD16-22D-Energy-Sa ... 0+volt+LED

And a new hour meter.
https://www.amazon.com/SEARON-Generator-Chainsaw- ... eter&psc=1

-Don

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Wed. Oct. 17, 2018 7:17 pm

I am not in the camp that think calibrating the Anthrastat is completely necessary. In reality, it doesn't really matter what number the knob is pointing at as long as the fire is at the right height.

-Don

I fully agree with this.

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Wed. Oct. 17, 2018 7:17 pm

I am not in the camp that think calibrating the Anthrastat is completely necessary. In reality, it doesn't really matter what number the knob is pointing at as long as the fire is at the right height.

In this case I probable should calibrate it since I am posting the results here. I will probably wait until we get it dialed in first.

-Don

Bingo. The whole idea is that the settings should be repeatable. Most people would probably prefer to set the ash control to known setting, and have the fire height be close to correct on the first try.

Kind of like using a bore sight when putting a new scope on a rifle. It won't be perfect, but it will get you on the target on the first shot.

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Wed. Oct. 17, 2018 7:31 pm

I will get them, I'm just not going to let them "control" anything just yet. I have decades of experience with all kinds of electronics and the Chinese controls just don't give me the "warm & fuzzy feeling" of the old tried and true Honeywell controls.

They will have to earn my respect as standby controls first.


-Don

My Digital Anthrastat "equivalent" did not replace anything made by Honeywell.
But test away!

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Wed. Oct. 17, 2018 7:08 pm

I took a quick look through the parts list but didn't see it. Here it is so you can look for yourself.
parts list-1.pdf
The solenoid is pretty simple, slug, spring and sleeve. The slug and sleeve could ware causing binding. The spring could get weak or brake.

And there is the 115 volt / 60Hz coil. If that doesn't work. it's smoked.

-Don

I was told by Pete that they sell a rebuild kit if memory serves me correctly. I don't think it was listed in the parts book. It was the guts I do believe. Not the coil.

!!!GREMLINS!!!

Yah, I know. Right after I open my big mouth about how wonderful old Honeywell controls are, yesterday morning I looked at the boiler before going to work and the temperature was 120 Degrees. But it was not running???

I checked the ON/OFF switch and it was ON. After trying to measure a couple things, it came on by itself. I figured we had an intermittent connection or part and I figured it was most likely in the HI Limit aquastat since it has some questionable wiring in it. I bypassed it, lit the fire and went to work.

When I got home from work yesterday, the boiler was down under 100 degrees!

I decided to just replace the Honeywell triple aquastat with a different one from the "Good" pile.

Now it's Friday evening and well is well!

-Don

Speaking of "Gremlins", I am having trouble uploading pictures. The "Attachments" tab is not working. I used the "Options" tab and uploaded them just as "Attachments" but doing it that way does not allow you to put the pictures where they need to be.
Sorry.