Oil Burner Help
- joeq
- Member
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- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
This site saved me a couple 3 yrs ago on my garage propain heater, and now I'm hoping for some more generous help with my forced hot air furnace. I know there are some extremely knowledgeable members here, and would be grateful for some advice.
40 year old Thermopride, Carlin/Beckett(?) burner, that has been problematic recently. (Going into "hard lockout", or popping the red reset). That's not the issue right now, and appears to be solved. Only have one specific question to start off with, (that I'll get to in a moment) before any details.
Rather than replace my old burner with a new modern one, I decided to rebuild my existing one.
Last season when the controller was popping out, I replaced it with a Honeywell universal digital one, that was the only one available at that time. It seemed to work a few weeks at the end of the winter, but it did pop once or twice towards the end. Always would run, once the reset was set. I did more cleaning and testing this fall, and all was good, until the extreme cold hit in Jan. I've ended up replacing the nozzle with new, the electrodes, the transformer, (solid state), and the oil pump. The O/P motor I had changed about 5 yrs B4.
That's the history so far. My problem now, is since I just installed all the above components, I now have a smell of oil in the duct system, when the furnace is running. Only happened after the new pump, electrodes, and transformer. I checked the pump pressure, and it's at 100 lbs like the old one. My air band adjustment is shut tight, and the shutter is set about 2-3 on the protractor. I know the heat exchanger is fine, cause it only started smelling right after the new parts installed. I don't have any residual oil laying or spilled around the burner.
My question is, is the air shutter adjustment a potential cause of this issue, because I think it was loose, and moved, during pump installation. Thanks for any opinions.
40 year old Thermopride, Carlin/Beckett(?) burner, that has been problematic recently. (Going into "hard lockout", or popping the red reset). That's not the issue right now, and appears to be solved. Only have one specific question to start off with, (that I'll get to in a moment) before any details.
Rather than replace my old burner with a new modern one, I decided to rebuild my existing one.
Last season when the controller was popping out, I replaced it with a Honeywell universal digital one, that was the only one available at that time. It seemed to work a few weeks at the end of the winter, but it did pop once or twice towards the end. Always would run, once the reset was set. I did more cleaning and testing this fall, and all was good, until the extreme cold hit in Jan. I've ended up replacing the nozzle with new, the electrodes, the transformer, (solid state), and the oil pump. The O/P motor I had changed about 5 yrs B4.
That's the history so far. My problem now, is since I just installed all the above components, I now have a smell of oil in the duct system, when the furnace is running. Only happened after the new pump, electrodes, and transformer. I checked the pump pressure, and it's at 100 lbs like the old one. My air band adjustment is shut tight, and the shutter is set about 2-3 on the protractor. I know the heat exchanger is fine, cause it only started smelling right after the new parts installed. I don't have any residual oil laying or spilled around the burner.
My question is, is the air shutter adjustment a potential cause of this issue, because I think it was loose, and moved, during pump installation. Thanks for any opinions.
- Lightning
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Full disclosure, I don't know a dam thing about oil burners.. but after having all those components replaced maybe it should be tuned up by a burner tech to make sure its burning properly.
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Ideally the air shutter should be set by measurements of smoke and CO2. Nozzle must have exact specs to match oil pattern to air pattern of burner.
Electrodes not set properly could cause delayed ignition and smell as could weak draft.
Most technicians just close down the air until the fire looks a bit smoky and then open a bit more.
Google the burner make and model for more info from the maker.
If it is a large oil company you call for a tech, tell then you will wait for their best tech.
Electrodes not set properly could cause delayed ignition and smell as could weak draft.
Most technicians just close down the air until the fire looks a bit smoky and then open a bit more.
Google the burner make and model for more info from the maker.
If it is a large oil company you call for a tech, tell then you will wait for their best tech.
- joeq
- Member
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- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Thanks Franco. Electrodes are set to spec, (1/16th, 7/16ths, 5/32s), and the draft setting on the barometric damper wasn't changed from the day B4, when it didn't smell. As for the manufacturer, the decals are worn off, so it's tough to know. Funny tho, the decal for the electrode settings, are still visible. Just curious if you know if an improper air adjustment could cause the stink?
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- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Yes it could. Too much air can make ignition difficult and too little leads to incomplete combustion.
Do you get a smell in the room with the furnace?
If you have a good view of the fire close down the air until flame tips look a bit smoky and then open until clean. Many modern units are impossible to really see the fire though. look at chimney outside for signs of smoke when running. Should not see anything.
Once again nozzle must be exact replacement.
With a flashlight examine the condition of the fire chamber for fallen or broken bricks if it even has a fire chamber and not just a target wall or ceramic felt. If oil impinges on the chamber floor a large lump of carbon soot will form. Examine also the flange at the inside end of the gun. This can be burned away. Again modern units can be hard to see anything.
Do you get a smell in the room with the furnace?
If you have a good view of the fire close down the air until flame tips look a bit smoky and then open until clean. Many modern units are impossible to really see the fire though. look at chimney outside for signs of smoke when running. Should not see anything.
Once again nozzle must be exact replacement.
With a flashlight examine the condition of the fire chamber for fallen or broken bricks if it even has a fire chamber and not just a target wall or ceramic felt. If oil impinges on the chamber floor a large lump of carbon soot will form. Examine also the flange at the inside end of the gun. This can be burned away. Again modern units can be hard to see anything.
- joeq
- Member
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- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
The nozzle, (80A, .75) is the same as the old one...(which I had cleaned anyway...B4). No, the cellar when the furnace runs, does "not" smell. It seems there is no problem with ign. Franco. I have a new transformer, and electrodes, and I feel the original problem with it locking out, was because at times, I couldn't hear the ignitors working, when calling for heat. But then, the next time I reset, it would work, and ignite. Now, when the flame is burning, it'll stink the entire time it runs, if you put your nose to the register. I went thru that for a couple hrs the 1st night. i had to run the house fans the next day, (when it was 20° outside), to clear the house. I checked the Oil Pressure tonite, (which was good), and then closed down the air band, which was open a 1/4". And finally closed down the air shutter to about 2 1/2, but when I refired the furnace, and went to the kitchen register to give it a sniff test, it was "still" smelling. I shut it down before the squirrel cage blower came on, and stunk the house again.
I do have the ability to open the a view port into the chamber, and can see the flame. It appears big and healthy, but I think I'll try your recommendation to make it smokey, and then open a bit. Once again, thanks for your input.
I do have the ability to open the a view port into the chamber, and can see the flame. It appears big and healthy, but I think I'll try your recommendation to make it smokey, and then open a bit. Once again, thanks for your input.
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
If you have a peep hole, hold your hand there while open and burner running or a lit match. Flame should pull in. If unit was not vacuumed in years there could be back pressure leading to smell. Barometric damper measures draft only at its location and not through furnace itself.
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Smell at the registers the first suspect is the heat exchanger portion having a hole. Might be good to shut down, open up and clean and inspect. Cover all bases. Check that return registers are open.
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
I don't know if this would work but with your manometer check the draft at the furnace opening with the burner off and then manually turn on the blower. If draft increases then the blower is pulling from the wrong place. Through a hole in the heat exchanger.
- joeq
- Member
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- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
I cleaned out the heat exchanger thru the ports, in the fall, and also inspected the combustion chamber, which has minimal cracking. Today, I checked the chimney pipe, and it too was clean. I have a digital manometer coming, but won't arrive till march, so no draft checks can be done...yet. I'm just at wits end, that it didn't stink, until the second I installed the new gun assy, (nozzle, and electrodes), and oil pump. all are at the same settings as the previous parts. Something I did on mon. is causing the smell. The only unknown in my book, is the air settings may be off.
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Very strange since the combustion area is separate from distribution.
Combustion smell is very different from raw oil smell.
Combustion smell is very different from raw oil smell.
- dbsuz05
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If you have unburned oil on the electrodes -black wet looking. It’s not igniting fast enough. Raise electrode height a bit. That would make a smell in the duct work.