new furnace and central air, and so it goes
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- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
So.....it was 65 OAT and 68 IAT this morning now it's 90 OAT and 71 IAT , pretty neat. glad i made plans and saw them thru to be able to do all this stuff now so i don't have to be messing around with it after i retire.
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I would need a trained chimp to fit in our 'attic'...
LOL...
They are giving it away for 'free' here so might as well get some of my $0.25 kwh electric bill back...
LOL...
They are giving it away for 'free' here so might as well get some of my $0.25 kwh electric bill back...
- lsayre
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- Location: Ohio
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The BTUH output of an 80% efficient 30,000 BTUH input NG furnace should be close to the output of Frank when burning 60 lbs. of coal per day.
Frank: 60/24 x 12,275 x 0.75 ~= 23,016 BTUH output (on average)
Furnace: 30,000 x 0.75 ~= 22,500 BTUH output
But you may want to consider that Frank can be cranked up/down, and a furnace can't. A furnace is steady state as to output. So Frank can exceed 23,000 output BTUH if/when required, and a 30,000 BTUH furnace can not exceed ~22,500 output BTUH.
Frank: 60/24 x 12,275 x 0.75 ~= 23,016 BTUH output (on average)
Furnace: 30,000 x 0.75 ~= 22,500 BTUH output
But you may want to consider that Frank can be cranked up/down, and a furnace can't. A furnace is steady state as to output. So Frank can exceed 23,000 output BTUH if/when required, and a 30,000 BTUH furnace can not exceed ~22,500 output BTUH.
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- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
thanks Larry, that is why i'm considering the 40k input 2 stage, ecm fan unit.
the low burn output is listed at not much over 28k and with the ecm may never run higher. it should also have reserve to put some level of heat in the 621 sf basement if we ever want to.
the low burn output is listed at not much over 28k and with the ecm may never run higher. it should also have reserve to put some level of heat in the 621 sf basement if we ever want to.
- lsayre
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I like this plan.KingCoal wrote: ↑Tue. Jun. 23, 2020 10:16 amthanks Larry, that is why i'm considering the 40k input 2 stage, ecm fan unit.
the low burn output is listed at not much over 28k and with the ecm may never run higher. it should also have reserve to put some level of heat in the 621 sf basement if we ever want to.
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- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
yep, the bigger issue right now is deciding if we are going to go ahead with a/c right now. with the new insulation the house is now staying 20*, sometimes more, lower than OAT, which is something we are not used to.
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- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
probably will. having it all done and over with is more my speed once I get started
- Lightning
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I guess it boils down to how much the A/C means to you. We only have a simple window unit that cools the living room. We only run it about 10-15 days a year.
- Rob R.
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It doesn't mean much if you have never had it. Having a house that is cool and dry when it is hot and muggy outside is really nice. I would get rid of our swimming pool long before I would consider giving up the air conditioner.
- McGiever
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- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
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- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
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- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
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I added over top of our old rockwool without sealing all the air leaks, obviously... hard to deal them without removing the old, but it still made a vast improvement.Holdencoal wrote: ↑Wed. Jun. 17, 2020 7:54 pmRemove all the old stuff!!! it lived it’s life. Then
Air seal...air seal...air seal. Use the metal contractor spray foam gun at the hardware store. Then install rafter vents if you have sofit vents. Then install the rock wool.
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/membership/pdf/4 ... 200068.pdf
I wanted to remove the old loose stuff. That’s just how I like to do things. That stuff had tons of dust on top and I simply couldn’t breather up there even with a good 3-M mask with replaceable canister filters.
Here’s a question: What company offers loose insulation removal?
I’ve never heard of any company doing that. I’d like to remove all this old loose fill in the older home we are living in now. I like loose fill for its insulating properties, but it’s a pain in the butt. I likely will never use loose fill again. If you ever have a ceiling drop , or had to do a repair where that has happened then you’d understand the mess it is and the frustration it causes. I hate it if for nothing but those reasons.
Air sealing would have to be an improvement.
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- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
I agree. Once and done. You spent your best money first, on the insulation. You don’t have to use the a/c, but it will be there if you need it. If you need it and don’t have it, well...
Besides, it’s a selling point if you ever sell...as is having a home so insulated you hardly need it. That means the replacement will be put off for a long time to come...and that is a good thing.
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- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
Reading this thread...again...Rob R. wrote: ↑Sat. Jun. 13, 2020 6:22 amSee if you can find someone that can do a blower door test on your house as part of the heating and cooling load analysis. One of the biggest factors in your homes heat loss is how often the air is exchanged, and it is the item that usually gets guessed at when doing a manual J.
Also, if you have tightened the house up a LOT, some sort of air exchanger may now be required.
I had this blower door test done before insulating my old home and putting it up for sale. Question. Do I need to have this test done on my current older home before doing the manual J? I assume the answer is yes.
Also, my oil burner is roughly 135,000 btu for 1350 sq ft of home. My winter number for the link Larry give is between5 and 8...forget what the number was called. (Just giving this info to Larry. Don't mean to hijack Steve's thread. PM's are just fine.) Only used coal for 2 months last winter, but I don't think I ever burned over 40 lbs in a day. Winter before last, when it got down to -27 here my oil burner cycled every 15 minutes. I certainly need to run these tests and insulate, and I will also need a smaller stove when I am done.