When is a high efficiency condensing boiler not a high efficiency condensing boiler?

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Thu. Apr. 30, 2020 9:13 am

It should not have any impact - no different than running a low temperature radiant system. I think the payback period would be quite long since the boiler will normally only run at condensing temperatures during the spring and the fall. You are using outdoor reset, right?

What is 5% of your gas bill for April?

I am running outdoor reset. I haven't received the April bill yet, but I believe they took the reading on the 24th so I should see it soon.

A few percent improvement likely wouldn't ever pay back the cost in my lifetime.

I was looking at Slant/Fin's Multi/Pak 80 series with H-1 fintubes, and also at Design Line's "Synergy" series baseboards.

Nothing superior about a high eff. boiler unless you are using a high cost fuel and can maintain mostly less than 130 return temps or chimney issue etc. Otherwise they are generally a failure-prone, tempermental, high maintenance nightmare.

Berlin wrote: ↑

Fri. Jan. 08, 2021 7:27 pm

Nothing superior about a high eff. boiler unless you are using a high cost fuel and can maintain mostly less than 130 return temps or chimney issue etc. Otherwise they are generally a failure-prone, tempermental, high maintenance nightmare.

All true!

I really need to get my low output 1964 HWB's replaced by something along the lines of the Haydon 958-2's that Rob went with. That baseboard series puts out ~50% more BTUH per foot than my aging and rather ugly dinosaurs. The Haydon's would drop my return temperatures substantially. I'm only seeing about a 12 degree Delta-T at present on each of my 4 zones. 50% more heat emitted per foot of baseboard should change that to about an 18 degree Delta-T and help my boiler condense a bit more often. I might even be able to change my outdoor reset profile whereby to condense even more often.

Rob, I've noticed that I have electrical outlets about 2" above some of my baseboards. From floor to baseboard top, what is the height of the installed Haydon?

Larry, I'll get a measurement later today.

Hope this helps.

Holdencoal wrote: ↑

Sat. Jan. 09, 2021 9:31 am

Hope this helps.

Thanks! If the left side 'tail' touches the floor, then the overall height is only 9-1/4".

Mine are installed with the bottom of the wall bracket 1" off the floor.

The installed height impacts the btu output. I believe that is detailed in the technical data.

Berlin wrote: ↑

Fri. Jan. 08, 2021 7:27 pm

Nothing superior about a high eff. boiler unless you are using a high cost fuel and can maintain mostly less than 130 return temps or chimney issue etc. Otherwise they are generally a failure-prone, tempermental, high maintenance nightmare.

As I recall, Britain mandated these boilers a few decades ago and most turned into a disaster. I believe they froze up? Something happened and it wasn't good.

lot of issues in cold weather that you dont have with furnaces due to modulation an very low exhaust temps. But, currently, that little island replaces one MILLION boilers per year, that was not the case when they used cast iron.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sat. Jan. 09, 2021 10:01 am

Mine are installed with the bottom of the wall bracket 1" off the floor.

The installed height impacts the btu output. I believe that is detailed in the technical data.

I can't find the link to this technical data sheet on the Haydon website. But what I do know from comparing the output charts is that the Haydon 958-2's should give me the same heat output as my current HWB's, sans for with 20 degree cooler water being circulated through them, and this will get me into condensing territory for much more of the winter. But at a cost...

How many feet of baseboard would you need to replace?

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Wed. Jan. 13, 2021 6:59 am

How many feet of baseboard would you need to replace?

I believe it comes to 122 feet in the house and basement, plus 26 feet in the garage.

lsayre wrote: ↑

Wed. Jan. 13, 2021 7:44 am

I can't find the link to this technical data sheet on the Haydon website. But what I do know from comparing the output charts is that the Haydon 958-2's should give me the same heat output as my current HWB's, sans for with 20 degree cooler water being circulated through them, and this will get me into condensing territory for much more of the winter. But at a cost...

The sheet I was thinking of was for Slant Fin baseboard. You can find it here: https://www.slantfin.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/ ... ta-820.pdf

You would be looking at a sizeable expense to replace all of your baseboard. The 10' section of 958 I just bought was $172, plus $10 each for the endcaps. Perhaps you should consider tightening up your house - that will reduce the overall heat load and allow you to use cooler water.

You could also ditch the baseboard and install Myson or similar panel radiators. Size them to the water temp you want to run.

What I prefer is cast Iron radiators, you can often find them cheap enough and just refinish them. either way a lot of work and or money. Probably not worth it.

Berlin wrote: ↑

Wed. Jan. 13, 2021 9:33 am

What I prefer is cast Iron radiators, you can often find them cheap enough and just refinish them. either way a lot of work and or money. Probably not worth it.

Those are usually a hard sell with the decorating committee.