Puff Back With Wood Stove?

Have you tried burning coal? If not, why not? I used to have a 983. It heated a 3000 square foot house for about $1500 burning anthracite. It was so easy to use, I stayed in the one match club my first season burning coal. I tended it twice a day. No fuss no muss.

The 983 was in a previous home and I didn't take it. (Stupid). I loved it so much, I'm thinking of getting one to put in my current fireplace for ambiance and power outage heat. Would burn some wood for ambiance and coal for heat.

[Contact Dean Lehman at [email protected] in regard to the best method to make up that connection to the stove.
He is a super guy and will take the time to make sure you are safe. Describe your problem to him as well. Maybe you have an internal damper or something messed up.

I have not tried coal yet b cus I fill my dumptruck bed ( 6x10) w 3or 4 ft rails, with oak cut offs for 40 a load. Significantly cheaper than coal.
I thought about calling hitzer but I don't really think it's the stove, I think it's the house/ chimney. I left a small crack in the window close to the stove for some nice cool combustion air, didn't really want to cause a leak but I think I need it unfortunately.

When chimneys are getting a constant cooling from above, the gases meant to be leaving it don't so well. It's often obvious on a cold start, but while in operation, if the terminal isn't heated in equal or higher temperature than the gases going up it you get negative flue pressure. Down draft burners avoid the necessity of countering the problem but conventional burners can burn cleanly and consistently with the right flue terminal ventilation, especially designed to deflect the condition. Most cowls obsess themselves on deflecting wind but more unknown and most common, the issue is a cooling chimney. Some say burn a bright hot fire to avoid the issue, but no one wants to waste their fuel and their heat by doing so. Protect the terminal effectively with applied pressure differential, and terminal heating, and puff back symptoms will significantly decrease.

applied pressure differential

Do you mean a draft inducer?

or would fumed silica and aluminatrihydrate filled methelmethacrylat monomer be more in order?

badlegdave wrote:or would fumed silica and aluminatrihydrate filled methelmethacrylat monomer be more in order

That's what I always do.

Um yeah, hello..... who doesn't know that?

I think you should of left the grates in. I never had a prob when I burned wood. kept the slider closed , air flow on top open, and damper slightly open. but I have an insert - no pipe. I burn coal in the cold months... hate wood -too much work/ tending. I LOVE coal. SO easy. My 983 burns both well.