This Should Heat My Breezeway

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KLook
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Post Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 8:58 pm

My guess is about 500 lbs.

Kevin


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CoalHeat
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Post Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 9:05 pm

This weights 300 lbs (297 to be exact), and it's much smaller.
Kitchen Radiator.jpg
I'm saying considerably more.

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DePippo79
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Post Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 9:39 pm

Just asked the wife what the way bill said. 800 lbs. 6'/1.5'/1.5'. Fortunately the breeezeway was built the same way as the house and barn. Real 2by8" floor joist and 8by8" sills. Plus the stone foundation was repointed at some point in it's life. The guy wanted us to buy it's twin, but I don't know where to put it. Barn? After this I should be all set when it comes to heating the place. Yes, when I pipe this in I want to redo the boiler manifolds so I can pipe a coal boiler right up. Remove end caps, add connecting pipe, and refill system, done. One of the forum members said he would be interested. I'll be calling a specialty moving company to get this in. No way can the wife and I do it. Overkill, probably but I like it. Now for the cars. The IROCs been together for years and is a driver the SS not so much. The electronic QJET is junk and every single brakeline has to be replaced. Typical northeast car. Once I fix the house maybe I'll have time/money for the toys again. Thanks for the comments. Matt

Wood'nCoal thats a beauty.

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CoalHeat
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Post Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 9:46 pm

800 pounds!!! Holy cow!!!
Radiators rule! Will be nice when t is connected.
Thanks!
BTW here's how it looked when I got it:
Kitchen Radiator Before.jpg

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2001Sierra
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Post Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 10:11 pm

[quote="Wood'nCoal"]Radiators rule! Will be nice when t is connected.

BTW here's how it looked when I got it:
Your efforts show job well done :D

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D-frost
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Post Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 9:10 am

Matt,
I think I would re-enforce the 2x8 structure under the 800lb. "gorilla". That's a lot of weight, plus the water inside. A post at each end will keep the "sags" out. It will make a difference if the radiator runs parallel to the floor joist. Perpendicular, against an outside wall, not so much.

Not trying to tell you how to install this, just a suggestion. By the way,"tis a thing of beauty"!

Cheers

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CoalHeat
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Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 9:37 pm

2001Sierra wrote: Your efforts show job well done :D
Thank you.

That 800 LB hunk of iron will pump out lots of heat!!

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VigIIPeaBurner
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Post Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 9:50 pm

D-frost wrote:Matt,
I think I would re-enforce the 2x8 structure under the 800lb. "gorilla". That's a lot of weight, plus the water inside. A post at each end will keep the "sags" out. It will make a difference if the radiator runs parallel to the floor joist. Perpendicular, against an outside wall, not so much.

Not trying to tell you how to install this, just a suggestion. By the way,"tis a thing of beauty"!

Cheers
Many of the buildings around here going back 100-200 years had the old rough cut full size lumber cut from white pine. good idea to reinforce it if the span is over 8-10'. I've seen 3-4 of them on ~14" centers crack under load. Might not bee too bad if it's really close to the wall were most of the shear load is close to the bearing point. You'll know if it feels a little bouncy!


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CoalHeat
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Post Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 9:55 pm

I second that. Wouldn't hurt to reinforce a little. Mine is sitting on a reinforced concrete pad, it ain't going anywhere.

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DePippo79
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Post Sun. Jul. 13, 2014 1:40 pm

Just notice the new replies. Thanks. I will get a second opinion on the floor, but the radiators in the rest of the house aren't really that much smaller. Anyway so much for just installing and piping it up. Now were into a breezeway remodel. See following pics if interested. Matt
Attachments
100_4794.JPG
Staining line.
100_4795.JPG
More boards.
100_4796.JPG
Work in progress. Steel box store door is going too. Only non original door in house.
100_4800.JPG
Possible door options.

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DePippo79
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Coal Size/Type: Anthracite. Stove and nut size.
Other Heating: Oil hot water.
Location: Hampton, NH

Post Sun. Jul. 13, 2014 1:52 pm

Decided the four inch baseboard isn't going to work either. Not correct for the house. More pics. The breezeway was never finished when the house was originally built so the wall repair is moving along. Sheet rock not plaster. Matt
Attachments
100_4799.JPG
Four inch baseboard won't look right when the wood work in the rest of the house is like this.
100_4765.JPG
Wall treatment I'm going for only stained not painted. 8 inch baseboard and chair rail. Simple enough for a breezeway.
100_4793.JPG
Original beadboard hidden behind kitchen radiator.

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DePippo79
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Coal Size/Type: Anthracite. Stove and nut size.
Other Heating: Oil hot water.
Location: Hampton, NH

Post Sun. Jul. 13, 2014 2:29 pm

Just talked with my uncle the carpenter. Unfortunately I'm stuck with that metal door because of fire code. Plus I should reinforce the floor, because over time it will probably sag. Oh well. Off to get some more supplies. Matt

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grumpy
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Post Sun. Jul. 13, 2014 8:22 pm

DePippo79 wrote:Just talked with my uncle the carpenter. Unfortunately I'm stuck with that metal door because of fire code. Plus I should reinforce the floor, because over time it will probably sag. Oh well. Off to get some more supplies. Matt
Are you looking for a wood door? Take a wood door, add 1/4 inch plywood on the outside, then have a sheet metal skin made to fit over the plywood and bam a fire rated door..
Attachments
IMG_5202.JPG
IMG_5203.JPG
IMG_5204.JPG

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windyhill4.2
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Post Sun. Jul. 13, 2014 8:57 pm

Or put the period correct wood covering on the inside of the existing metal door :)

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michaelanthony
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Post Sun. Jul. 13, 2014 11:58 pm

Nice work Matt I owned a 250 yr old house in Amesbury many moons ago and there was always something to do. A shellac might match that beautiful woodwork in your home.


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