Propane Boiler

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idruthrbfishin
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Post by idruthrbfishin » Tue. Jan. 22, 2013 10:35 pm

A friend of mine has been having trouble with his propane fired boiler. The flame is signifigantly higher than it should be. I checked the incoming gas pressure at the boiler - 11" w.c. before the valve, with about 8"w.c. after the valve. Pressure should be 3-4"w.c. after the valve. He called his gas supplier. They sent a service guy out who checked everything and said he couldn't find anything wrong. Then my friend told the service guy that I had checked the valve, and told him what I had found. So the service guy checks and says, "yeah, the valve is bad." So, they replace the valve. ($200.00) Now the flame is not nearly as high, but still higher than it should be. Then Mr. Service Man tells him that his gas lines are worn out, and they can replace them for "around $800.00." Thing is, everything else in the house works fine; gas dryer, gas water heater, and gas range/oven. The gas lines are 3/4" soft copper. Now, I'm a refrigeration mechanic by trade, and I don't have alot of experience working with gas units, but I think I smell a rat. I have seen copper get eroded from the inside out by chlorine water, but am unaware of this problem with propane. Is this possible? Does propane erode gas lines? And if it does, why would everything else in the house work as it should? I have heard story after story about this particular gas supplier and their service guys milking major bucks out of unsuspecting homeowners.


 
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Jan. 23, 2013 12:28 pm

Let's see, replace copper with black pipe, get paid $800.00 and head straight to scrap dealer with the old copper pipe.
Not bad for a days work. :o

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Wed. Jan. 23, 2013 7:04 pm

Copper can fail when around or in concrete.

 
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idruthrbfishin
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Post by idruthrbfishin » Wed. Jan. 23, 2013 7:28 pm

coaledsweat wrote:Copper can fail when around or in concrete.
The only place it is in or around concrete is where it comes through the foundation. If that was the issue, I'd suspect I wouldn't have 11" w.c. like I have.

 
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Post by tsb » Wed. Jan. 23, 2013 8:51 pm

Find another Mr. Service man. The burner just needs to be adjusted.
If the pipe was bad, there would be a leak or no gas at all.
$200.00 for the valve is a bit high.

 
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Post by whistlenut » Wed. Jan. 23, 2013 9:11 pm

I'm with TSB, something is not being addressed and throwing parts at it won't make you sleep any better, unless there is a resolution. I'm with you on the concrete/copper issue, but I'm assuming they drilled a hole in the wall, so it isn't like a direct contact, however IMO the line should ALWAYS be sleeved, no matter where it passes through or travels. Cleaning and adjusting sure seems to be the first thing done, and meanwhile don't do anything foolish....please

 
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Post by blrman07 » Thu. Jan. 24, 2013 6:55 am

Replacing the gas pipe won't control the flame height. A bad gas pipe will leak propane and drain your wallet. I'm with the others. What you need is a new service man who knows how to adjust the burner.


 
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Post by waldo lemieux » Thu. Jan. 24, 2013 8:28 am

Mornin'

Im in agreement about the new service tech. If there was any problem with the pipe the flame would be smaller not larger. Just a thought but have you checked the orifice. If ya got a NG orifice in there
youd have crazy flames. If at sometime in the past you had a gas pressure issue someone may have put an oversize orifice in there. Or if you have a newer unit that has the flip over kind maybe the gremlins have got the thing in backwards. Just thinkin on the keyboard........

Waldo

 
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Post by Rigar » Thu. Jan. 24, 2013 8:50 am

Have you or your neighbor inspected the regulator at the propane tank itself?
it appears there is too much in coming pressure...
regulators need to be able to drain and vent properly ...
if they don't water or freezing temps can affect how they regulate gas pressure...... I would start there... just my 2 cents
..i would inspect the vent at the regulator carefully...
..vents need to "drain" properly...and should be pointed down
debris or ice can Lodge between the nozzle and disc seat.. allowing over pressurize downstream..

 
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Post by Freddy » Thu. Jan. 24, 2013 1:12 pm

The thing that needs replacing is the service tech.

Here in Maine all gas & oil copper tube that is on or in concrete must be in a protective plastic cover. You can buy it with an orange plastic molded on, or you can put it in the blue flex tube.

 
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Post by cabinover » Fri. Jan. 25, 2013 5:58 am

Propane does not erode lines. The only reason to change lines would be to get more gas volume for the whole house, not just one appliance.

What make and model is this boiler? Sounds kinda like you have a NG orifice in the burner.

Where did you guys come up with the .3-.4 WC after the valve? That sounds like Natural Gas levels.

Propane needs around .10-.11 WC most times.

 
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Post by Rigar » Tue. Jan. 29, 2013 5:42 am

Idruthrbfishin.....

Any update on that boiler situation ?

 
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idruthrbfishin
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Post by idruthrbfishin » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 10:03 am

Rigar wrote:Idruthrbfishin.....

Any update on that boiler situation ?
So, finally convinced him that he was being taken for a ride, he said he was going to call one of the more reputable service companies in this area.

 
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Post by Rigar » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 3:30 pm

Flame still burning bad ?..
Anything change ?

 
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Post by oilman » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 7:18 pm

cabinover wrote:Propane does not erode lines. The only reason to change lines would be to get more gas volume for the whole house, not just one appliance.

What make and model is this boiler? Sounds kinda like you have a NG orifice in the burner.

Where did you guys come up with the .3-.4 WC after the valve? That sounds like Natural Gas levels.

Propane needs around .10-.11 WC most times.
you're right......those pressures don't jive.


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