Fuel Oil Storage Article.

I was researching fuel oil tanks because I need to replace mine and I came across this article about fuel storage.

http://theepicenter.com/tow021799.html

Foe example, here's a quote from the article:

"The problem begins with today's modern fuels. These so-called "clean" fuels typically deteriorate at much faster rates than fuels made 20 years ago. While all fuels suffer from the problem, most at risk are the EPA mandated reformulated gasolines (RFG) that contain oxygenate additives, derivatives of methyl alcohol and ethyl alcohol. We've seen gasoline have shelf life as little as a month--particularly if it is subjected to heat and moisture.

Diesel fuels fare a little better, but not much. Most all diesel fuel, including the EPA's mandated low sulfur version, has shelf life of from 3-to-6 months. Again, this varies widely. Recently we tracked a diesel fuel produced at a refinery in Texas to its final destination in Florida. When tested at the refinery the same day it was produced, the fuel barely met the specification for stability. After being stored, pumped into a coastal tanker, offloaded at Port Everglades, stored again, delivered to the fuel jobber, and finally to the customer, 23 days had passed. Again the fuel was tested. This "fresh" fuel now tested out of "spec."

I read the article and it didn't say about sablizing home heating oil.
I wonder how long HO will last in the basement tank before going bad and sludging up.

I've had some off road diesel sitting in a torpedo heater for at least three years & it fired right up this past winter. Then again I think that thing might burn just about anything but it didn't even smoke or smell much.

I don't necessarily agree with the author on heating oil/No. 2 distillate/No. 2 diesel. No. 2 distillate is stored in huge quantities for years with little done to keep it "fresh" except for keeping water out of it and adding a periodic biocide and general fuel treatment such as power service to enhance lubricity when used in stationary diesel engines or jet turbine gen sets. I agree, the older, high aromatic, high sulfur fuel was better, but, there is no excuse for a refiner making a fuel that can't meet minimum spec 20 somthing days out from manufacture.

Right now home heating oil is still high sulfer, at least here in NY. But do worry, the Politicians have a better idea and are trying to get that to be required to be low sulfur also. Of course #6 fuel oil (heavy commercial grades used alot in NYC) would be exempt.

Diesel fuel is not what it once was. I agree that today's fuel has poor stability...especially when heated. Filters plugging with "Asphaltene deposits" are becoming common enough that Fleetguard has introduced a product in response to the issue.

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/html/en/products ... _cond.html

http://fuelschool.blogspot.com/2009/02/asphaltene ... lters.html

http://www.dieselcraft.com/FuelFacts.php

As Berlin said, using a fuel conditioner that helps control oxidation & lubricity is important. Proper moisture control is important as well. Heating oil tanks need to be properly pitched towards the filter, and the filter should be changed once per year. I treat my heating oil with fuel conditioner, and the filters come out clean a year later.

Since it's doubtful that I will ever fill my 275 gallon fuel oil tank to capacity, I have considered getting a much smaller tank. If you have a large tank and only fill it partially, that will surely cause condensation inside the tank. So, it would be better to have a smaller 100 gallon tank.

One thing to consider - It is common for fuel companies to have a 100 gallon minimum delivery quantity. If you have natural gas service you may want to consider that for a fuel source.

Good point about the minimum delivery!

For those that live in Massachussets: http://www.mass.gov/dep/cleanup/laws/hhsl.htm

steamup wrote:Right now home heating oil is still high sulfer, at least here in NY. But do worry, the Politicians have a better idea and are trying to get that to be required to be low sulfur also. Of course #6 fuel oil (heavy commercial grades used alot in NYC) would be exempt.

In practice, the vast majority of all heating oil in New York is identical to diesel fuel and is ULSD. This is true for most of the northeast. This is what I was told by the owner of NOCO. A fuel sample I had tested from Griffith Energy a few years ago was also ULSD in Plattsburgh, NY, and Griffith informed me that almost all of the heating oil they sell in NYS is also ULSD.

There was not THAT much lsd being used for HO in NYS, but it certainly has been used. I can tell who is using what as the companies I know who are 100% lsd, well, their customer's heating units don't even need vacuuming anymore, to be honest. My customers who buy from other sources - well, they are the same old scaly deposits.
I guess it's a moot point now anyway. Everyone will be low sulfur now.
The filters,etc. on the low sulfur and/or B-5 blends are pretty bad due to the detergent effect on the old tanks. This will probably clear up after a few years, but it's been a pain as I have had filter blinding issues on reg.maintained systems, something I've never had happen before.

Berlin wrote:

steamup wrote:Right now home heating oil is still high sulfer, at least here in NY. But do worry, the Politicians have a better idea and are trying to get that to be required to be low sulfur also. Of course #6 fuel oil (heavy commercial grades used alot in NYC) would be exempt.

In practice, the vast majority of all heating oil in New York is identical to diesel fuel and is ULSD. This is true for most of the northeast. This is what I was told by the owner of NOCO. A fuel sample I had tested from Griffith Energy a few years ago was also ULSD in Plattsburgh, NY, and Griffith informed me that almost all of the heating oil they sell in NYS is also ULSD.

good to know about the ULSD oil, It's been at least two years since I bought Heating Oil. The stuff I have does burn different than ULSD however. I think I got it through Noco but can't remember.
Now that I am on coal, I am thinking about going to propane as a back up fuel. - fewer storage concerns, less maintainence, use it for cooking, hot water and clothes dryer anyway. I haven't burned a drop of oil since I fired the coal burners last fall.

Edit - I shouldn't say think about propane. I should say "part of the long range plan"

About 90k BTU per gallon propane,130k BTU per gallon fuel oil,propane would have to be almost a dollar a gallon cheaper to provide same heat for same cost.

So with the price of off road diesel very low right now, I decided to buy some. I'm using a 55 gallon drum and transferring it to my fuel oil tank with a pump. Doing this so I can buy when I want and not have to buy some minimum amount as the fuel oil companies dictate. I've made 3 trips so far over the last month or so. I'm doing this for several reasons. First, its much cheaper than its been in a long time. Second if something should happen to me that prevents me from taking care of the coal boiler for awhile or if I should just croak, I want my wife to be warm. She won't deal with the coal boiler. I've got step by step instructions written down how to switch from coal to oil and my youngest son can easily make the simple changes for her. My concern is storing the fuel and keeping it viable. So my questions are what should I add to the tank while I'm filling it? Biocide? Anything else? Not sure I've ever seen biocide at the hardware store but never really looked for it. My tank is a fairly new (7 years old) 275 gallon and its located in a heated and cooled basement. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.