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set your alarm clock so you don't wake up cold

Been there.

Wood and Coal wrote:

set your alarm clock so you don't wake up cold

Been there.

Yea anybody using this stoves had to set the Alarm clock

I load the Fisher and in 4 hours it's down to embers. It's nice to have in the fireplace for really cold weather in this drafty old place, also I have the screen for it so it can be left open and functions as a fireplace.

I don't know guys, I had A Poppa Bear back in the 70's in Vt & totally heated a 30x40 log cabin. I had no problem getting a 12 hr burn--we are talking wood right, not kindling. It was a good stove in my opinion--don't know about UL or BL or any other L--all I know is it did a good job heating the house.

Mine definitely puts out heat, but a good portion of the heat produced goes right up the chimney. The insert has a damper, but even with it in closed position it's a wood hog. It uses twice the wood that my creosote-factory Kent Sherwood used to burn.

freetown fred wrote:I don't know guys, I had A Poppa Bear back in the 70's in Vt & totally heated a 30x40 log cabin. I had no problem getting a 12 hr burn--we are talking wood right, not kindling. It was a good stove in my opinion--don't know about UL or BL or any other L--all I know is it did a good job heating the house.

I don't doubt it; large chunks of wood and air wide open until the charcoal stage, then close down the air for overnight, at which point it would act like a coal stove. Takes a canny operator though.

if I reduce a 8 in flue to 6 inch and run it through the ceiling as 6 inch to the cap is that a big deal?

smurph wrote:if I reduce a 8 in flue to 6 inch and run it through the ceiling as 6 inch to the cap is that a big deal?

You need enough volume to safely exhaust the products of combustion. If the draft is strong with the 6 inch I don't think you will notice the difference.

freetown fred wrote:I don't know guys, I had A Poppa Bear back in the 70's in Vt & totally heated a 30x40 log cabin. I had no problem getting a 12 hr burn--we are talking wood right, not kindling. It was a good stove in my opinion--don't know about UL or BL or any other L--all I know is it did a good job heating the house.

well I burned 4 of them two fisher's and two Alaska they all burned the same 4 to 6 hours tops before reload
I had large double door models and large single door models the doulbe door had blower fan and screen like a fire place
burn 5 years with wood 20 to 25 full 4x4x8 cords hard wood hickery and oak per winter

What can anyone tell me about this Fisher wood furnace.
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It was made in Grantsburg, Wi and has a model number of GFC-100. I have the owners manual and a Fisher warranty card. The company that made it was licensed by Fisher.

Here is a Fisher that came with my house in 1988, it is an early 80s with glass windows in the doors.

Nice looking stove!

Thanks! My sons and I pulled the stove out this summer for painting (it was bare metal since new, and very much a plain Jane functional stove) and to refresh the gaskets for the windows and the doors, while we installed the chimney stonework. The shiny areas on the door were already super smooth, so we just polished them and left them unpainted. I still have to re-install the back baffle. It has a variable-speed blower attached to the bottom at the back and a baffle that is held onto stand-offs by four screws. When installed it will direct a flow of air up across the back of the stove.

This morning my Fisher was serving as an incinerator for all the old papers and documents I'm getting rid of, too many to run through the shredder.

i just bought one of these for my cottage, so when I install it should I cut a hole in floor and get air that way or mount it on some small bricks? it is in good shape, but the more I read the more im concerned. I was wondering how the damper got its air I guess I just learned how, just worried. also is there supposed to be rope in the door opening? if so is there a certain kind to get?

thanks