Fisher Wood Stoves

 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Sat. Nov. 19, 2011 10:43 pm

No gaskets in the door opening, years ago I thought they were missing from mine and glued some gasket material in, I couldn't close the doors!

Edit: Just found this info in a earlier post on this thread:
lso to make a Fisher more stingy with wood; They were designed with a triple door seal that did not use a gasket. The raised area around the edge of the door makes contact with the bottom of the channel on the stove, and the raised edges of the channel contact the flat door creating 3 contact surfaces. They were considered air tight as built. However there is enough air leakage, that many will not hold a fire overnight. By adding a THIN gasket to the channel bottom, an air tight seal is achieved, and a longer burn time is achieved. You will be able to rake the coals around and add wood in the morning, instead of starting a new fire in a warm stove ! They act like a different stove. The gasket material should be the flat type used to install glass in doors. If the round rope type gasket material is used, it can cause problems closing the door. The only problem this can create is when replacing the gasket material. ALL the old cement should be removed from the channel due to making the replacement gasket too thick, adding more cement to the old can cause door closing problems.
That's sort of what I tried to do.


 
firedude26
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Post by firedude26 » Sat. Nov. 19, 2011 11:07 pm

thanks im not sure if I wanna keep this I have read some stuff that makes me unsure, I like the looks of it and its heavy duty. I did look at the door today and noticed the way it closed and seen how it was a pretty good seal so no gasket would be needed.

 
Pasco
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Post by Pasco » Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 3:27 pm

We recently pulled an old Fisher Baby Bear stove out of the back barn and are trying set it up. We want to run stovepipe from the outlet in the back of the stove to the thimble in our masonry chimney. But the 6" stove pipe that we normally use doesn't fit into the stove outlet. Neither the crimped nor the open end fit in. The stovepipe, of course is 6". The outlet at the back of the stove is 6" outside diameter and 5 3/4" inside diameter. I'm wondering why it was designed that way, and how to get it hooked up. Is there some kind of standard adapter that we can use? Or do we need to have something fabricated? Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 3:41 pm

Weird, I always had my Pappa Bear run w/ 6" black stove pipe????? By the way, Fischer's a damn good wood stove.

 
Pasco
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Post by Pasco » Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:32 pm

Thanks for the Fisher encouragement, Fred. About the stovepipe--"Weird" was my first reaction too. Never ran into something like that before.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:38 pm

You can get a REAL crimping tool & just plat with the already crimped end until she fits is the only thing I come up with. Any good tin knocker shop should have the tool. I know I hate to put out bucks on something I'm only going to use a couple times. Put where you're from in your profile, nobody'll steal ya for Gods sake--If NYS HEPS has them in thier shops

 
Pasco
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Post by Pasco » Wed. Dec. 14, 2011 11:05 am

Thanks again, Fred. Just updated my profile. I'm from Southwest Virginia. The Blue Ridge Mountains. I'll ask around about a crimping tool.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Dec. 14, 2011 2:30 pm

That would be the act of re-crimping your crimping. ;) I hope that'll work for you. Theoretically, it should. :clap: toothy I love them thar big words. :roll:

 
Machinist01
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Post by Machinist01 » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 12:14 pm

I just bought this stove,in great shape and getting ready to buy my chimney pipe.It has a 8 inch hole for the pipe and was wondering if I can run a reducer to 6 inch to go with the smaller pipe?I have a few people with some kicking around and can pick it up really cheap.Thanks for the help!

 
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 12:20 pm

You sure can, I did it w/ my Poppa Bear & he worked fine for more yrs then I'm going to admit. ;)

 
Coaly
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Post by Coaly » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 10:45 pm

I don't know what you have there Machinist, but a Mama Bear has a 6 inch outlet. Mama is a Single door, and measures 24" deep inside. That said, a Fisher with a 8 inch outlet is a double door Grandma or Grandpa. They were designed with 8 inch outlet because they are a Fireplace model able to burn with doors open and a screen in place to view the fire.
A damper is required in the flue pipe for open burning. It is technically against code to reduce any appliance, meaning the chimney and connector pipe is to be the same size as flue outlet all the way up. Most will work, reducing to 6" depending on chimney draw. Being choked down, you will not get the full BTU available, but it is usually enough.
To tell you what you have, (models are more than Grandma and Grandpa, Roman Numerals were used) I would need to know if the doors are flat across the top or arched and other details. Pictures are best, and I can date it. The width varies from 76 to 79 , and 80 to 88 since after 1980 they were UL Listed and a different size. All Grandmas will use 5 bricks across the back, Grandpas will use 6.

Fred, You wouldn't need to reduce a Papa Bear as well. They are 6 inch outlet, single door "Bear Series" and take up to a 30" log. Double door stoves are the "Fireplace Series" with 8 and 10 inch vents.

If you both have double door stoves, old style flat top doors are usually marked inside as well. G/M L and G/M R for Grandma left and right...... and G/P L and G/P R for Grandpa left and right.
I have manuals for most of the 18 models made, just ask and I send them out in pdf format.

Attachments

Nickel Mama 1.jpg

pre 1980 door avail only in black, on new style box. Nickel plated for show

.JPG | 47.9KB | Nickel Mama 1.jpg
Mama Bear VI 1983.jpg

Post 1980 Mama

.JPG | 7.1KB | Mama Bear VI 1983.jpg
Papa Bear side vent.jpg

Papa Bear as originally designed

.JPG | 75.7KB | Papa Bear side vent.jpg
Papa Bear 1.jpg

Post 1980 Papa

.JPG | 33.1KB | Papa Bear 1.jpg

 
Coaly
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Post by Coaly » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 11:18 pm

All the makers of that era before 1980 were using 6 inch OD, and they were a tight fit. Yes, you have to over-crimp them to get them in. If the hole cut in the plate was too big, or out of round making a poor fit to weld, most fabricators had thicker wall pipe, like well casing that was even larger on the outside. The hole could be trued up, and the larger collar used. That's why you will find some with thicker looking collars. There was also a short adapter sold to fit without making your own.

Here's a picture of the factory balls under a Goldilocks to raise it firedude;

Attachments

Goldilocks on raised balls 1.jpg
.JPG | 47.2KB | Goldilocks on raised balls 1.jpg
Goldilocks Manual dated 1978.jpg
.JPG | 21.7KB | Goldilocks Manual dated 1978.jpg

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Dec. 17, 2011 7:32 am

I mis-read, my thimble is 8", that's where I had to reduce, from the 8" thimble to 6" black pipe coming of old Poppa. With a MPD, I never had any problems--sorry my friend. I'm trying to remember if I've ever seen a Grand-ma or pa???---I do know one thing, Fischer made a damn good stove back when.

 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Sat. Dec. 17, 2011 7:39 am

it depends on the chimney, you have a good chance of getting lots of smoke into the house by going to a smaller diameter pipe.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Dec. 17, 2011 7:52 am

Yep, there are certainly a bunch of variables in what you're burning & where you're burning it & into what you're venting.


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