Russian Designed Hopper Fed Gasification Wood Burner

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freetown fred
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Location: Freetown,NY 13803

Post Wed. Jun. 01, 2011 8:52 am

During the coldest weather, I shake & top off my hopper every 12 hrs--I use about one 5 gallon pail of NUT coal in 36 hrs. I just shut down with a full hopper & it took 3 1/2 days to go out. I pulled my pipes apart last night & cleaned--today I will clean, shop vac & WD40 the stove & wait for next winter--Hey, that guy in your Avatar has my walking stick. toothy
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower

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nortcan
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Stove/Furnace Make: Stuart,Peterson/ Grander
Stove/Furnace Model: Sunnyside/ Golden Bride
Location: Qc Canada

Post Thu. Jun. 02, 2011 11:59 am

Hi blagott and welcome to the forum.
What kind of wood do you have and what is the wood size and Qte you put in your ""stove"" to get the 36 Hrs burt time?
Is it possible to describe (very simply) the working process of it?
Did you made it yourself and is it St.St. metal?
From what part of Russia are you?
Salutations from Canada
nortcan

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nortcan
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Stove/Furnace Make: Stuart,Peterson/ Grander
Stove/Furnace Model: Sunnyside/ Golden Bride
Location: Qc Canada

Post Thu. Jun. 02, 2011 12:01 pm

freetown fred wrote:During the coldest weather, I shake & top off my hopper every 12 hrs--I use about one 5 gallon pail of NUT coal in 36 hrs. I just shut down with a full hopper & it took 3 1/2 days to go out. I pulled my pipes apart last night & cleaned--today I will clean, shop vac & WD40 the stove & wait for next winter--Hey, that guy in your Avatar has my walking stick. toothy
Come on Fred, we all know you need 2 walking sticks LOL
nortcan

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blagott
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Post Sat. Jun. 04, 2011 3:07 pm

Hello nortcan.
Excuse, quickly hasn't answered - the Internet is guilty.
Tree - a pine. Length of a tree - 65-: - 70 see
Copper of 50 kw. The size бунков - 0, 7 cubic meters
Mode of fast burning - 20 hours.
Mode of silent burning - 3 days.
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blagott
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Post Sat. Jun. 04, 2011 3:51 pm

Smoke colorless

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franco b
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Location: Kent CT

Post Mon. Jun. 06, 2011 6:24 pm

Welcome to the forum,and thanks for sharing your ideas. Your stove reminds me of the old Riteway stove in its mode of burning at the base.

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blagott
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Post Tue. Jun. 07, 2011 12:18 am

franco b wrote:Welcome to the forum,and thanks for sharing your ideas. Your stove reminds me of the old Riteway stove in its mode of burning at the base.
Hello, franco b!
Could you show the drawing furnace? ;)

franco b
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Location: Kent CT

Post Wed. Jun. 08, 2011 7:12 pm

Flue exit at base like yours, but your stove should have a much hotter exit area since it is surrounded on both sides with burning fuel. I like yours better except that it requires a larger stove or furnace.
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riteway.jpg


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blagott
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Post Thu. Jun. 09, 2011 11:42 am

The prototype of my boiler is a boiler IRLEH polish. Here's a picture.
Image

franco b
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Location: Kent CT

Post Thu. Jun. 09, 2011 8:00 pm

Looks excellent. The only things I would question is the use of water jacket in the fuel storage area and the first water jacketed baffle in the secondary combustion area. The baffle would steal less heat from the combustion area if it had the bottom faced with insulating firebrick or ceramic felt.

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blagott
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Post Fri. Jun. 10, 2011 8:50 am

franco b wrote:Looks excellent. The only things I would question is the use of water jacket in the fuel storage area and the first water jacketed baffle in the secondary combustion area. The baffle would steal less heat from the combustion area if it had the bottom faced with insulating firebrick or ceramic felt.
Totally agree with you.
My latest design eliminates these disadvantages.
Figure below pyrolysis furnace.
Made the drawings.
For anyone who wants to make drawings post
Image

Image

Image

franco b
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Posts: 8449
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Location: Kent CT

Post Sat. Jun. 11, 2011 7:25 pm

Since this is a design rather than a finished product that can be tested, the secondary combustion area looks to me that it needs further insulation from the heat exchange area at least at the bottom. There should be no heat exchange until gasses and smoke are consumed. A series of fire tubes might work better than the serpentine water jacket and would be above the secondary combustion area which should be well insulated on its interior. From the drawing I can't make out if there is secondary air or if it depends on primary air alone.

Unless there is a need for radiant heat from the boiler in addition to the heated water which presumably is piped elsewhere, then I would prefer a fiberglass and steel jacket to better insulate it, rather than brick sheathing.

It is obvious to me that you are a very talented person who will succeed in building a very superior product. I hope you regard any suggestions from me as just being meant to be helpful to you and not in any way a criticism of you.

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blagott
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Post Mon. Jun. 13, 2011 5:14 am

Dear franco b, a secondary combustion area at the bottom
isolated fireclay brick. A series of fire tubes can not be applied in this scheme. Both primary and secondary
Air is also available. Gases move in a circle, preventing
intensive gasification fuel.
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