Is There Enough Stack Temp for a Heat Reclaimer on a Englander 30-NC

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smokeyCityTeacher
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Post by smokeyCityTeacher » Mon. Dec. 28, 2009 1:01 pm

I have a brand new Magic Heat reclaimer unit and an Englander 30-NC 2200 sq ft airtight wood stove with the 3 pipe secondary burn mechanism.

It is NON catalytic.

I'm wondering if this new generation of non catalytic airtight secondary burn units have a high enough stack temp to throw a heat reclaimer on it ? Anybody have a stove like the 30-NC with the 3 pipes to burn secondary gases? What are your stack temps ?

Thank in advance for any help and a Happy New Year to y'all from Pittsburgh.

 
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Post by WNY » Mon. Dec. 28, 2009 1:24 pm

Throw a temp. gauge on it and see what your temps are.

 
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Post by smokeyCityTeacher » Mon. Dec. 28, 2009 1:39 pm

WNY wrote:Throw a temp. gauge on it and see what your temps are.
I haven't hooked up the stove yet so I didn't wanna have to shut it down again to either install or remove the heat reclaimer if I guessed wrong about the stack temps.

I'm figuring I need a stack temp of around 400 to make the thing worthwhile to put on. If it was a plain old wood burner it would be a no-brainer to put it on.

I have no prior with this latest generation of non cats. I know they cook the 2ndary gasses with high temperatures from 2ndary air inlet but I just don't know how that translates at the stack.

 
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Post by WNY » Mon. Dec. 28, 2009 1:48 pm

Ah, sorry, thought your were running already. Not sure.


 
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Post by franco b » Mon. Dec. 28, 2009 6:23 pm

Put it on, the stack temperatures will be high on any wood stove other than those with extra large heat absorbing surfaces like masonry or Russian stoves.

 
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Post by smokeyCityTeacher » Tue. Dec. 29, 2009 12:14 pm

franco b wrote:Put it on, the stack temperatures will be high on any wood stove other than those with extra large heat absorbing surfaces like masonry or Russian stoves.
OK, Im gonna go for it.

 
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Post by smokeyCityTeacher » Wed. Jan. 13, 2010 4:15 pm

franco b wrote:Put it on, the stack temperatures will be high on any wood stove other than those with extra large heat absorbing surfaces like masonry or Russian stoves.
After a few weeks with the heat reclaimer on it def. was a good idea. The amount of hot air begin reclaimed from the flu pipe really surprised me. Just the hot air coming out to the reclaimer would be enough to heat two large rooms. My 1600 sq ft basememet is toasty and the overflow spills up the pipe chase and the pipes are toasty.

The trick is you gotta burn hot. I accidentally left for work with the damper almost all the way closed and came home to find the logs unburnt but charred brown and creosote was actually dripping out of the tubes in the reclaimer. What a mess. Also - Ive noticed a slight reduction in extraction due to those exchange tubes being coated with creosote.

When Im burning as hot as I can I have 450deg stack temps below the reclaimer and scalding hot air pouring out of the reclaimer. I don't know what the temps are above the reclaimer. I outta look at at that.

This spring ill take it apart and clean the tubes. BTW they are not perfectly air tight from the smoke stack. If you burn at low temp and put lots of smoke up the chimney. You will smell some smoke in your hot air being blown into the room.

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