Hi all,
I just picked up a pot belly stove. It says "UMCO" on the front of ash door, as well as "28-212" and "Leader Globe" on the back of it. It says "No 29" on the front of the fire door. In looking on the internet, I've come across plenty of references to a No 28, and a few to 210, and 212, but not one for the 29. The only difference I can see between the 28 and 29 is that the 29 has leaf clusters in the lower corners of the fire door. This thing is in beautiful condition, a patina of rust covers most of it, but there is no damage to any part of it, and I believe it's 100% complete, minus any handles it may have had.
Can anyone tell me it's approximate value? Is it really rare? I intend to use it as decoration in my living room, but I still want to use stove black on it, rather than paint. What would be the best way to clean it up without hurting the value?
Thanks,
Ted
UMCO/Leader Globe No. 29
Excellent! I've got a No 28 and have burned some coal with it to toy around with a couple years ago. I have seen a few No 29 for sale over the past few year, and I like the look of it better than the 28.Glock34 wrote: ↑Thu. Feb. 23, 2023 7:49 pmI just picked up a pot belly stove.
It says "UMCO" ... "No 29" I've come across plenty of references to a No 28, but not one for the 29
The only difference I can see between the 28 and 29 is that the 29 has leaf clusters in the lower corners of the fire door.
The 210 and 212 are a larger model, differing in the decoration.
These UMCO stoves are common. If how often I see the different models for sale is an indication of how many there are out there then the most common is the 28 then the 210 then 212 and then 29. The 29 is not rare, but it is uncommon to see one offered for sale.
Use high temperature paint, there are a number of colors available, black is on most store shelves the others you may have to order. On the "UMCO No. 28" thread, I posted a picture of mine prior to use ( Mon. Nov. 16, 2020 8:19 am ), I applied gloss on the doors. I see many photos online of others applying different color schemes, all nice in their own right.
Best way to clean it up without hurting the value is to not crack or lose parts.
If it were me, I would take it apart so I could apply high temperature paint to the edges along seams that couldn't be reached when it is assembled.
Thanks for the info.
When I questioned the best way to clean it up, I meant wire wheel, sandblasting, Scotchbrite, chemical rust remover, etc. I'd hate to sandblast or use a chemical rust remover on it and find out I've ruined it, but I'd also hate to take hours and hours to Scotchbrite it for no reason.
When I questioned the best way to clean it up, I meant wire wheel, sandblasting, Scotchbrite, chemical rust remover, etc. I'd hate to sandblast or use a chemical rust remover on it and find out I've ruined it, but I'd also hate to take hours and hours to Scotchbrite it for no reason.
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Sanding, wire wheel, and scotch brite only take off the surface rust, not the rust down in the rust pits.
Even without rust pits, cast iron may look smooth but under magnification it has a textured surface much like wood that rust can stay down in that grain.
Grinding to remove the pits takes can take off an excessive amount of metal.
Chemical strippers can leave behind chemical problems, or if using water-neutralized strippers, start the rust all over again.
The vast majority of pros use sand blasting. It's the most cost-effective method, the sand is inert so can't cause delayed problems, and it gets down into the rust pits without removing good metal.
Only drawback for a novice is if they have to take the parts to a commercial blaster, by the time they get the parts home and are ready to paint, often the parts have started to rust again.
I do media basting as part of my antique auto restoration business - both sand blasting and glass bead blasting cabinets. After sandblasting the larger parts of antique autos, I do the priming right in my sandblasting garage as soon as the dust has settled.
If you can work out priming right after blasting, sandblasting is the better way.
Paul
Even without rust pits, cast iron may look smooth but under magnification it has a textured surface much like wood that rust can stay down in that grain.
Grinding to remove the pits takes can take off an excessive amount of metal.
Chemical strippers can leave behind chemical problems, or if using water-neutralized strippers, start the rust all over again.
The vast majority of pros use sand blasting. It's the most cost-effective method, the sand is inert so can't cause delayed problems, and it gets down into the rust pits without removing good metal.
Only drawback for a novice is if they have to take the parts to a commercial blaster, by the time they get the parts home and are ready to paint, often the parts have started to rust again.
I do media basting as part of my antique auto restoration business - both sand blasting and glass bead blasting cabinets. After sandblasting the larger parts of antique autos, I do the priming right in my sandblasting garage as soon as the dust has settled.
If you can work out priming right after blasting, sandblasting is the better way.
Paul