Woods-Evertz Parlor Stove Model 6A

jon54124 · Post by **jon54124** » Mon. Jan. 23, 2023 9:22 pm

Hi everyone, I have a question regarding my woods-evertz parlor stove. when I first got the stove and burned coal in it for the first time the outside of the fire pot would start to glow red from the heat. I put in a concrete stove liner which took are of the liner getting to hot, but now I have an issue with the coal ash not wanting to drop down from the sides when I shake the grate. How would I correct this issue?

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Stove Grate

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Concrete Stove Liner

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swattley01 · Post by **swattley01** » Sun. Feb. 12, 2023 9:02 pm

I have the same problem. The guy who restored my Vail Oak put the firebrick mold in the fire pot. It also does not hold as much coal. But no more glow red fire box. First mine before restoration leaked air and could not slow the fire down. My stove has the same style coal grate. I get around 6 hour burn time. But instead of ash dropping in burns through the pot. Goes out before morning. And has 8 inches of ash above the grate. I am notice clickers not just ash dust. The manufacturer of your coal plays alot on quality of the Burn. I use Blachauk only in this stove. I hope others join in. This is a problem with theses older cylinder stoves. It scared me at 3 am and pot was glow red the hole thing

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Mon. Feb. 13, 2023 8:01 am

Ash buildup at the liner of a tapered firepot is common. Run a stove hot enough and it gets to the coal's fusion temperature. Then the lower layer of ash forms a "bridge" of fused ash that does not want to come loose with just shaking the grates.

At ash shaking time I run a right-angled tipped poker down the sides to "break" the ash bridge loose from the pot. Then I shake ash.

You don't have to poke down and loosen all of the ash because getting most of it lose seems to loosen the rest.

Paul

swattley01 · Post by **swattley01** » Mon. Feb. 13, 2023 11:23 pm

Why do you think this happens more after the firebrick is molded around the cast. Is the cast iron smoother allowing the ash to slide down?
I noticed the sides of my round grate are more covered up with the cement.
I wonder did theses stoves turn glow red in the times when this was your only source of heat? It scary wake up 2 am and see this.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Tue. Feb. 14, 2023 7:59 am

swattley01 wrote: ↑
Mon. Feb. 13, 2023 11:23 pm
Why do you think this happens more after the firebrick is molded around the cast. Is the cast iron smoother allowing the ash to slide down?
I noticed the sides of my round grate are more covered up with the cement.
I wonder did theses stoves turn glow red in the times when this was your only source of heat? It scary wake up 2 am and see this.

Yes, the cast iron pot is smoother to the ash. It can't get a grip like it can with some refractory liners that are not as smooth. Run hot enough the coal will actually start to fuse into the refractory. Then it has to be chipped away or the firepot will grow smaller and be tougher to shake down the ash. I' had that happen with the old fire clay bricks of my range and the castable firebricks of my parlor stove.

Some of the instructions I've read for making a liner said to make the inner surface as smooth as possible for that reason.

So far, the new castable fire bricks of the range are staying rather clean of buildup because I scrape then down with the right-angle tipped poker every few days.

Paul

KingCoal · Post by **KingCoal** » Tue. Feb. 14, 2023 6:26 pm

swattley01 wrote: ↑
Mon. Feb. 13, 2023 11:23 pm

I noticed the sides of my round grate are more covered up with the cement.

Yes this is the majority of your present issue though it can be easily remedied

Looking at your grate pic the area of the openings between the outside diameter of the round grate and the bottom of the cast fire pot are fine from 12:00 to 4:00 is fine the rest of the way around it is covered up
Use any tool you like to remove the excess liner material so it open all the way around and you will have better luck

There is also something to be said for having the liner very smooth and even thickness so that there isn’t bulges going out from the center line where it’s thinner and…

Paul is right about coal having a burn temp where it goes sticky to some degree, if you can figure out what outer stove body temp that is with your stove you can stay just under that and reduce your problem even further

Good luck it’s a good looking stove
steve

swattley01 · Post by **swattley01** » Sat. Feb. 18, 2023 7:55 am

Does anyone know if I can carefully take a sharp chisel and chip away at the casting down bottom and free up space around the circular shake grate. Maybe letting ash flow . I just don't want to crack or ruin the whole cast.

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Sat. Feb. 18, 2023 8:15 am

That's kind of a luck thing. Easy does it.

KingCoal · Post by **KingCoal** » Sun. Feb. 19, 2023 8:26 am

swattley01 wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 18, 2023 7:55 am
Does anyone know if I can carefully take a sharp chisel and chip away at the casting down bottom and free up space around the circular shake grate. Maybe letting ash flow . I just don't want to crack or ruin the whole cast.

Use a Dremel and either a grind or cutoff disk.
Much safer and if you haven’t got one yet you’ll probably need it for other stuff once you do. Can’t have too many tools

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Sun. Feb. 19, 2023 9:25 am

KingCoal wrote: ↑
Sun. Feb. 19, 2023 8:26 am
Use a Dremel and either a grind or cutoff disk.
Much safer and if you haven’t got one yet you’ll probably need it for other stuff once you do. Can’t have too many tools

This.

When I made molds for casting firebricks, I made then a bit too long so I could grind them to fit snuggly. Grinding the castable refractory can be dusty but there is no risk of damaging the casting.

Plus, it is much more controllable for shaping castable refractory to get a good fit than trying to saw or chisel the castings. I used a small right-angle grinder, but down in the firepot a Dremel will give better fit and control.

Paul