Advice on Herald #6

jgrobelny · Post by **jgrobelny** » Wed. Jan. 04, 2023 5:03 pm

Hi everyone Happy New Year, Just looking for some advice on Herald no. 6 i picked up the other day. Recommend draft, whether to use standard barometric or cast elbow with it built in, and secondary air settings. Any advise would be appreciated I am in upstate New York Elevation around 2000 ft quite windy at times

Thanks Joe

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Wed. Jan. 04, 2023 6:11 pm

Draft is roughly same on most stoves. Most manufacturers recommend .03-.06. Some more experienced will run lower.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Wed. Jan. 04, 2023 6:42 pm

jgrobelny wrote: ↑
Wed. Jan. 04, 2023 5:03 pm
Hi everyone Happy New Year, Just looking for some advice on Herald no. 6 i picked up the other day. Recommend draft, whether to use standard barometric or cast elbow with it built in, and secondary air settings. Any advise would be appreciated I am in upstate New York Elevation around 2000 ft quite windy at times
Thanks Joe

Welcome JG.

The "cast elbow" that came with many antique stoves had a "check damper" in it to help reduce draft strength when burning wood but does not work like a baro. You can use a baro, but likely won't need it. An MPD (Manual Pipe Damper) is what most use and it works well with base heaters that have long internal flues like your Herold. Those long indirect draft flues of base heaters make windy conditions have less impact on the stove than modern direct draft stoves.

I have a Glenwood #6 base heater, which is Glenwood's twin to your Herold base heater.

There is no recommended mano draft number for the antiques. Because indirect draft base heaters extract so much heat from the exhaust, they can run at much lower pipe mano readings and still turn out a lot of heat than direct draft modern box stoves can. I run my #6 at .02 and that gets it into the 500F range of the barrel.

I only bump it up to .03 if the weather warms up into the 40'sF that reduces the draft strength.

Paul

jgrobelny · Post by **jgrobelny** » Wed. Jan. 04, 2023 8:55 pm

Thanks for the reply, I was also thinking of mixing stove & nut coal not sure if either one is better. I did a small run with it and got 15 hours on 7 lbs of coal. Was not trying to over do on my first try, lasted way longer than i thought. After the coal settled in after starting I had 670 on the outside of the pot. And 345 on the barrel 115 on stove pipe at the wall does that sound about right.
Joe

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Wed. Jan. 04, 2023 9:55 pm

jgrobelny wrote: ↑
Wed. Jan. 04, 2023 8:55 pm
Thanks for the reply, I was also thinking of mixing stove & nut coal not sure if either one is better. I did a small run with it and got 15 hours on 7 lbs of coal. Was not trying to over do on my first try, lasted way longer than i thought. After the coal settled in after starting I had 670 on the outside of the pot. And 345 on the barrel 115 on stove pipe at the wall does that sound about right.
Joe

Those temps are good, but a bit on the high side if you're not trying to heat a big space. But not surprising with stove size coal in the mix. Because the big chunks have bigger air spaces it breathes better so burns hotter than smaller sizes. Therefore, it may need tighter damper settings to not overheat. If the ash door and primary dampers do not seal as well as they should, you may not get it to run slower.

Using just nut will give a bit more air flow restriction and thus help with lower temp control. And using all nut size it will run longer because there is more coal (fuel density) in the firepot with nut coal than with stove coal.

Paul

jgrobelny · Post by **jgrobelny** » Thu. Jan. 05, 2023 7:40 pm

I just noticed this tonight after startup again after the warm days. should I be overly concerned, it is about 1/16" by maybe 1 1/2"

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Fri. Jan. 06, 2023 9:28 pm

Is that a gap at the base of the firepot ? If so, it will leak air in under the firebed making control tough.

I'd work some refractory stove sealer (such as Hercules from Lowes), into the gap to seal it until the off season when you can unbolt the firepot and seal it properly.

Paul