Hello. I'm fitting up this Stewart Oak No. to heat my shop while I repair the Acme Ventiduct that's in there now. Can I burn coal and wood in this model? with this grate (4 horizontal spike grates that you can jiggle from the front)? Dad said Grandpa burned wood and coal in it. It has 1 broken mica window and I've got the replacement sheet. How do I get that in? Does it seem like I have to drill out that nice rosette screw to remove the back grate ring that is framing it in? Can't find much info about it this Stove. Made by Freeman Warren in Troy NY. Looks like the belt line would have been nickel plated. What's the function of the 3 hole slider vent on the back? Thanks,
Dan
Freeman Warren Stewart Oak
- mntbugy
- Member
- Posts: 2046
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2016 2:36 pm
- Location: clearfield,pa
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: D S 1500, Warm Moring 400
- Baseburners & Antiques: Art Garland 145,GW114 ,Clarion 115, Vestal 20 Globe,New Royal22 Globe, Red Cross Oak 56,Acme Ventiduct 38,Radiant Airblast 626,Home Airblast 62,Moores #7,Moores 3way
- Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
- Other Heating: Propain
Yes, wood or coal.
Grind, carefully the 4 screw head off on the inside or vice grip on roset and screw driver on inside. Turn both at same time. Might need some heat also. Don't mess up the roset, they are $5 each IF you can find them. The mica window frame will come off.
The mica windows are very early time period correct. Little holes were drilled in them to let alittle overfire air in. Instead of opening that round knob in the center. Use center knob for wood temperature control. Close center knob for coal.
You should make a round sheetmetal cover to put over the grate bars. Drill a series of rows 5/16 or 3/8 holes on half of the one side. Will keep hot embers from falling thru the grate bars. Take cover plate out for coal.
The 3 hole sliding plate in the back is the check damper. Opening the holes some will reduce you draft on windy days. Keeping the stove a more constant temperature. Earliest version of a barometric damper.
Grind, carefully the 4 screw head off on the inside or vice grip on roset and screw driver on inside. Turn both at same time. Might need some heat also. Don't mess up the roset, they are $5 each IF you can find them. The mica window frame will come off.
The mica windows are very early time period correct. Little holes were drilled in them to let alittle overfire air in. Instead of opening that round knob in the center. Use center knob for wood temperature control. Close center knob for coal.
You should make a round sheetmetal cover to put over the grate bars. Drill a series of rows 5/16 or 3/8 holes on half of the one side. Will keep hot embers from falling thru the grate bars. Take cover plate out for coal.
The 3 hole sliding plate in the back is the check damper. Opening the holes some will reduce you draft on windy days. Keeping the stove a more constant temperature. Earliest version of a barometric damper.
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- New Member
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- Joined: Sun. Nov. 27, 2016 12:35 pm
I appreciate that great info. A close look shows that the only part beside the finial that is plated is the large trim ring skirt below the door. I thought it might have originally been nickel plated but it appears to be a gold color and perhaps it too was brass plated?
- mntbugy
- Member
- Posts: 2046
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2016 2:36 pm
- Location: clearfield,pa
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: D S 1500, Warm Moring 400
- Baseburners & Antiques: Art Garland 145,GW114 ,Clarion 115, Vestal 20 Globe,New Royal22 Globe, Red Cross Oak 56,Acme Ventiduct 38,Radiant Airblast 626,Home Airblast 62,Moores #7,Moores 3way
- Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
- Other Heating: Propain
The part the finial sits on was nickel plated.
The trim skirt below the middle door was plated. Along with all door knobs, caps on the hinge pins, t-handles on the air spinners.
You are missing the beauty/trim ring. Goes around the big round iron part just above the steel barrel/jacket. Plated also.
If your wallet allows plate the legs,air spinners behind the t-handles and the very upper door.
Looks like brass?, might been flash copper before nickel plating.
Spray scrubbing bubbles tub and shower cleaner on finial. Will shine with minimal effort.
The trim skirt below the middle door was plated. Along with all door knobs, caps on the hinge pins, t-handles on the air spinners.
You are missing the beauty/trim ring. Goes around the big round iron part just above the steel barrel/jacket. Plated also.
If your wallet allows plate the legs,air spinners behind the t-handles and the very upper door.
Looks like brass?, might been flash copper before nickel plating.
Spray scrubbing bubbles tub and shower cleaner on finial. Will shine with minimal effort.