Glen wood E kitchen stove
- Cdawg
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- Location: Canaan New Hampshire
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Looking for all glenwood guru’s. I just purchased a glenwood E kitchen cook stove yesterday. I have disassembled most and will completely disassemble within the next few days.
Is there any way to date the stove? Most pieces have “N Elm 8 90 or 92” so yes it is an E model but…. It does not look like any other E I can find and I have spent hours! I am assuming this is 1892 from stamps, yet be certain I know nothing!
Is there any way to date the stove? Most pieces have “N Elm 8 90 or 92” so yes it is an E model but…. It does not look like any other E I can find and I have spent hours! I am assuming this is 1892 from stamps, yet be certain I know nothing!
Attachments
- Sunny Boy
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- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
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- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
The "E" models were one of the larger ranges in the Glenwood line.
It has the late 1800's style, so the 90, 92 could be the year,... or any year there after until they changed the mold patterns. Some of the stove models were unchanged in production for many years.
FYI. That type rocker grate is not going to work well with coal if you want to run it 24/7. You might want to contact some of our stove shop members and see if you can swap in a set of coal grates and frame.
My 1903 Sunny Glenwood model was only in production about two years, then in 1905 Glenwood continued the same model name but with less decorative, simpler styling for most of their ranges. Many of those then had the word "modern" added to the model name, or letter.
There's more about model numbers and dates in the "Cookin' With Coal" thread.
Cookin' With Coal
Paul
It has the late 1800's style, so the 90, 92 could be the year,... or any year there after until they changed the mold patterns. Some of the stove models were unchanged in production for many years.
FYI. That type rocker grate is not going to work well with coal if you want to run it 24/7. You might want to contact some of our stove shop members and see if you can swap in a set of coal grates and frame.
My 1903 Sunny Glenwood model was only in production about two years, then in 1905 Glenwood continued the same model name but with less decorative, simpler styling for most of their ranges. Many of those then had the word "modern" added to the model name, or letter.
There's more about model numbers and dates in the "Cookin' With Coal" thread.
Cookin' With Coal
Paul
- Cdawg
- Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon. Aug. 05, 2019 7:03 pm
- Location: Canaan New Hampshire
- Stoker Coal Boiler: efm df520
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarm 402
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
- Coal Size/Type: Nut,Stove,(buckwheat soon)
- Other Heating: Fireplace
Sunny,
Thank you for your quick response. I assumed that since that grate rocked back and forth that it was a coal grate…..but as I said I know nothing. I am having a great time tearing this apart and getting it back to its glory days!
Thank you for your quick response. I assumed that since that grate rocked back and forth that it was a coal grate…..but as I said I know nothing. I am having a great time tearing this apart and getting it back to its glory days!
- Cdawg
- Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon. Aug. 05, 2019 7:03 pm
- Location: Canaan New Hampshire
- Stoker Coal Boiler: efm df520
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarm 402
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
- Coal Size/Type: Nut,Stove,(buckwheat soon)
- Other Heating: Fireplace
This will not be for heat, just to be functional and eye candy! Probably only burn wood although I do have a supply of coal!
- Cdawg
- Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon. Aug. 05, 2019 7:03 pm
- Location: Canaan New Hampshire
- Stoker Coal Boiler: efm df520
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarm 402
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
- Coal Size/Type: Nut,Stove,(buckwheat soon)
- Other Heating: Fireplace
Ps I did start reading that thread but… 200 pages??
- Sunny Boy
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- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Don't let the 200 pages scare you. There's a lot of cooking and repetition in there. Most of what you need to know is covered in the first dozen or two of pages.
That shaker grate will work for wood. And with coal it can be shaken to dump most of the ash but do nothing for breaking up and dumping clinkers trying to form. After a few days the firebed starts to fill up with clinkers and ash gets blocked. Then the heat output drops off. After about a week you have to let the fire go out so you can clean out the firebed and start all over building up a new firebed. Been there and that gets old.
The better coal grates are two grates geared together so that, not only can they be shaken to clear ash, but they can also be rotated daily to break up the clinkers while they are still at a "crumbly" stage. I rotate the grates every morning after a long nighttime burn as part of the morning refueling. My range has the triangular grate bars, so they only get turned 1/3 or 2/3 each day. After about 4 years of running 8-9 months a season, they still look like new.
Plus, rotating the grates to use the other side the next day evens out wear and heat stress to prevent warping and extend the life of the grates.
For two grate setup you'd take the two screws out of that circular cover in the front of the firebox and rotate it 180 degrees and screw it back on. That puts the grate axle hole off center so that the left-hand grate axle sticks through the cover hole. The left-hand grate is connected to the right-hand grate by gears called "cogs". And it likely needs a different grate frame to support two grates.
Paul
That shaker grate will work for wood. And with coal it can be shaken to dump most of the ash but do nothing for breaking up and dumping clinkers trying to form. After a few days the firebed starts to fill up with clinkers and ash gets blocked. Then the heat output drops off. After about a week you have to let the fire go out so you can clean out the firebed and start all over building up a new firebed. Been there and that gets old.
The better coal grates are two grates geared together so that, not only can they be shaken to clear ash, but they can also be rotated daily to break up the clinkers while they are still at a "crumbly" stage. I rotate the grates every morning after a long nighttime burn as part of the morning refueling. My range has the triangular grate bars, so they only get turned 1/3 or 2/3 each day. After about 4 years of running 8-9 months a season, they still look like new.
Plus, rotating the grates to use the other side the next day evens out wear and heat stress to prevent warping and extend the life of the grates.
For two grate setup you'd take the two screws out of that circular cover in the front of the firebox and rotate it 180 degrees and screw it back on. That puts the grate axle hole off center so that the left-hand grate axle sticks through the cover hole. The left-hand grate is connected to the right-hand grate by gears called "cogs". And it likely needs a different grate frame to support two grates.
Paul
- Cdawg
- Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon. Aug. 05, 2019 7:03 pm
- Location: Canaan New Hampshire
- Stoker Coal Boiler: efm df520
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarm 402
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
- Coal Size/Type: Nut,Stove,(buckwheat soon)
- Other Heating: Fireplace
Thank you so much for the great info! I will look into this conversion while I have it apart!
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Stoves of this style were available for special order ul till ww2, new elm, elm and Cresent were all generic brands for Glenwoods so some parts are marked with these names on them.
That style graye system is called a plain grate they were made for wood and coal and oddly enough do work rather well with quality coal Wilson mull gave me one to try in my 1898 glenwood home grand, they take a special shaker handle that rocks it up and down and in and out, I doubt the 308/408/508 grates will fit, even if they did slide into the firebox the correct retainer plate would be required for the shaker stub to be exposed.
I have some parts for this stove (missong end shelf included) I picked up from the Bill Wilbur estate purchase be careful with dismantling the stove as parts are much thinner than the newer versions and are hard to find and expensive to boot
That style graye system is called a plain grate they were made for wood and coal and oddly enough do work rather well with quality coal Wilson mull gave me one to try in my 1898 glenwood home grand, they take a special shaker handle that rocks it up and down and in and out, I doubt the 308/408/508 grates will fit, even if they did slide into the firebox the correct retainer plate would be required for the shaker stub to be exposed.
I have some parts for this stove (missong end shelf included) I picked up from the Bill Wilbur estate purchase be careful with dismantling the stove as parts are much thinner than the newer versions and are hard to find and expensive to boot
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25569
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Dana,
Can that plain grate be rotated daily to dump clinkers and prevent warping, without dumping some or all of the firebed ?
I've had shaker grates that could not be rotated. Made clearing ash and clinkers a daily pain. And I still had to shut down , clean out and restart when the clinkers became too much of the firebed volume. That's compared to grates that can be rotated without dumping the shallow firebed of a range, or running it so hot just to get the bed to bridge so it doesn't dump all.
And if you get a batch of coal prone to clinker, like I had last winter, I'd not want grates that could not grind it up and dump it without also dumping a lot of the firebed. Been there !!! That is why I went to all the trouble to make a patten and get recast triangular grates for my range and take care to turn them every day.
Paul
Can that plain grate be rotated daily to dump clinkers and prevent warping, without dumping some or all of the firebed ?
I've had shaker grates that could not be rotated. Made clearing ash and clinkers a daily pain. And I still had to shut down , clean out and restart when the clinkers became too much of the firebed volume. That's compared to grates that can be rotated without dumping the shallow firebed of a range, or running it so hot just to get the bed to bridge so it doesn't dump all.
And if you get a batch of coal prone to clinker, like I had last winter, I'd not want grates that could not grind it up and dump it without also dumping a lot of the firebed. Been there !!! That is why I went to all the trouble to make a patten and get recast triangular grates for my range and take care to turn them every day.
Paul
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- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:40 pm
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They don't rotate completely, and with clinker prone coal imsire you w p uld need to constantly floss to prevent them from getting too large,they certainly don't work as good as triangular or even dockash style but they are advertised for anthracite, I had assumed they were for wood use till I got the master catalog
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25569
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
When the warped grates in my range could not be rotated, I found that flossing had limited results. I could not get to clinkers that were directly on top on the grate bars to break up them up and drop.
With time, those clinkers would grow larger, harder, and taller up into the firebed, eventually filling most of the lower firebed with clinkers. Heat output would then drop way off. Trying to get the oven hot enough for baking that required more than a couple of hundred degrees became impossible.
So, about once a week I had to let the range burn out, clean out all the clinkers and then restart the firebed. When real cold weather set in that made for a cold day in the back half of the house.
With new grates that can be rotated daily to break up and dump all the clinkers and ash, the heat output stays at max without ever having to shut down the range to clean it out. And that makes the cook happy.
Paul
With time, those clinkers would grow larger, harder, and taller up into the firebed, eventually filling most of the lower firebed with clinkers. Heat output would then drop way off. Trying to get the oven hot enough for baking that required more than a couple of hundred degrees became impossible.
So, about once a week I had to let the range burn out, clean out all the clinkers and then restart the firebed. When real cold weather set in that made for a cold day in the back half of the house.
With new grates that can be rotated daily to break up and dump all the clinkers and ash, the heat output stays at max without ever having to shut down the range to clean it out. And that makes the cook happy.
Paul
- Cdawg
- Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon. Aug. 05, 2019 7:03 pm
- Location: Canaan New Hampshire
- Stoker Coal Boiler: efm df520
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarm 402
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
- Coal Size/Type: Nut,Stove,(buckwheat soon)
- Other Heating: Fireplace
Dana,
I live 20 minutes or so from you. Would it be possible to stop by your shop sometime to discuss and pick up some missing parts?.
I live 20 minutes or so from you. Would it be possible to stop by your shop sometime to discuss and pick up some missing parts?.