Modern Glenwood 116 recirculating pipe

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Christopher
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Post by Christopher » Sat. Feb. 05, 2022 1:00 pm

Greetings everyone, l am restoring a Modern Glenwood 116 parlor stove and was wondering if anyone has ever rebuilt the recirculating pipe in the rear of the stove or has specs on its make up?

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Feb. 05, 2022 2:10 pm

Christopher wrote:
Sat. Feb. 05, 2022 1:00 pm
Greetings everyone, l am restoring a Modern Glenwood 116 parlor stove and was wondering if anyone has ever rebuilt the recirculating pipe in the rear of the stove or has specs on its make up?
Christopher.

Contact member Wilson (screen name wilsonswoodstoves) 508-763-8941.

He has restored quite a few GW 116 and he makes a reinforced baffle plate casting that goes down inside the back pipe that prevents how they commonly warp, and/or, crack from uneven heat stress.

The baffle plate on one of my GW 118 is warped and broken like that.

Paul

 
Christopher
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Post by Christopher » Sat. Feb. 05, 2022 2:24 pm

Thank you Paul, l was planning on making it myself with the help of a sheet metal fabricator who is a frind of mine , l do remember someone here at Coalpail did the same thing but cannot find the listing and pics

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Sat. Feb. 05, 2022 2:56 pm



 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Sat. Feb. 05, 2022 3:39 pm

Christopher, if you haven’t already rolled the barrel, roll one at least 36 inches long if your friend has the capability. You can then make the backpipe to match. This will add a large amount of surface area increasing its ability to shed heat, and it’s practically free.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Feb. 05, 2022 3:57 pm

Christopher wrote:
Sat. Feb. 05, 2022 2:24 pm
Thank you Paul, l was planning on making it myself with the help of a sheet metal fabricator who is a frind of mine , l do remember someone here at Coalpail did the same thing but cannot find the listing and pics

The back pipe is just 6 inch stove pipe.

If you don't have the original pipe's cast base support, you'll have to make something to take the weight of the pipes, baffle, and diverter damper. But that gives you a lot more leeway how tall you can make the back pipe.

However, I don't think an all-sheet metal baffle will work. The heat difference between the front and back face of the baffle warps even cast iron baffle plates. The ones Wilson makes are thicker and have reinforced sides to the casting to help resist the warping/cracking.

Paul

 
Christopher
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Post by Christopher » Mon. Feb. 07, 2022 5:30 pm

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Paul l have the bottom flu diverter, but l have no pipe or the original two flanges that fit the pipe from the intake side or the oppisite side exhaust to flue. I talked with Wilson a very nice gentleman and he is sending me pics and specs on the ones he has. Talco sent me the link on the specs and pics someone here posted in 2012, so l am going by their specs and pics. Since the flanges needed where 2 and 6in flanges would be preferred l got two from Ace Hardware the barrel stove kit that connects two barrels together the cast flanges are perfect and a standard 6in pipe. One problem l am having is attaching the top plate to the recirculating pipe l think back in 1907 it was bolted or rivited. Welding a top piece on will warp the pipe so l think it might have to be braised.

 
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Post by scalabro » Mon. Feb. 07, 2022 6:48 pm

Sometimes I wonder if the backpipe is even worth messing with. Complication, cleaning, maintenance etc. You’d be hard pressed to measure a difference in coal consumption I bet. It’s so much easier to just lengthen the barrel and utilize a MPD & a baro downstream.


 
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mntbugy
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Post by mntbugy » Mon. Feb. 07, 2022 8:14 pm

scalabro wrote:
Mon. Feb. 07, 2022 6:48 pm
It’s so much easier to just lengthen the barrel and utilize a MPD & a baro downstream.
Not that easy on a modern GW. The face plate is 1/4 of the barrel diameter.

The older models are easier, as in 20,30,40,50.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Tue. Feb. 08, 2022 6:31 am

Christopher wrote:
Mon. Feb. 07, 2022 5:30 pm
20220206_135208.jpgScreenshot_2022-02-05-18-24-06.pngPaul l have the bottom flu diverter, but l have no pipe or the original two flanges that fit the pipe from the intake side or the oppisite side exhaust to flue. I talked with Wilson a very nice gentleman and he is sending me pics and specs on the ones he has. Talco sent me the link on the specs and pics someone here posted in 2012, so l am going by their specs and pics. Since the flanges needed where 2 and 6in flanges would be preferred l got two from Ace Hardware the barrel stove kit that connects two barrels together the cast flanges are perfect and a standard 6in pipe. One problem l am having is attaching the top plate to the recirculating pipe l think back in 1907 it was bolted or rivited. Welding a top piece on will warp the pipe so l think it might have to be braised.
I see that you have the original base chamber that the back pipe sits on - with its cleanout door.

The top cap is a cast iron oval with a flanged edge that fits into the back pipe. It uses screws through the pipe into that flange so you can remove it to clean inside the back pipe.

The baffle plate extends down to the top of the base chamber opening and is supported by the top edge of it and centered in the pipe by the two little tabs on each side of the base chamber opening. That leaves a gap below the baffle plate inside the base chamber for the exhaust to pass under the baffle plate to go up the back half of the back pipe.

When you close the direct/indirect damper - located near the top of the baffle plate and in line with the short connecter pipe from the barrel - it closes off direct access through the baffle plate to the exit collar and diverts the exhaust down the front half of the pipe, under the baffle, and back up the back half of the pipe to the exit collar. It's made so you can use an exit collar on the back side of the back pipe or leave off the top cap and just go straight up out of the top of the back pipe into more 6 inch stove pipe to the chimney.

The point of using a back pipe is not just to gain more surface area to shed heat, it also creates a natural exhaust flow restriction to slow the exhaust and allow more time for heat transfer, without need of more dampers or a baro. And that flow resistance helps in another way. As the outside air temps change the draft strength in the chimney system, it also increases or reduces the stove draft to match the heat demands without need of a lot of playing with dampers. Very simple and reliable.

Plus, as you can see, the base chamber is quite roomy. With just using coal, if you make sure to open the damper to direct draft each time you shake ash, you only have to vacuum the fines out of the base chamber a couple of times each season.

Paul

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Tue. Feb. 08, 2022 6:38 pm

mntbugy wrote:
Mon. Feb. 07, 2022 8:14 pm
Not that easy on a modern GW. The face plate is 1/4 of the barrel diameter.

The older models are easier, as in 20,30,40,50.
Lol, I guess it depends on your definition of easy. 😂

 
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Post by KingCoal » Tue. Feb. 08, 2022 7:28 pm

HA good one Scalabro

Outside of a few notables, not that many think “ likely to succeed with diligence “ to equate with “easy”

 
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mntbugy
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Post by mntbugy » Tue. Feb. 08, 2022 7:30 pm

scalabro wrote:
Tue. Feb. 08, 2022 6:38 pm
Lol, I guess it depends on your definition of easy. 😂
Hmmm....A double can and a half with a 96 inch tall back pipe.
Go big or go home.

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