Modern Glenwood F 207 Cook Stove parts/linings

Hi All,
New to the forum - I have a Glenwood F 207 Cook Stove that is set up with firebrick to burn coal. I am looking for the cast iron linings and bottom grates to burn wood that would fit this model. Does anyone have experience with this little cook stove? The firebox is even smaller with the thick coal bricks in place so, I am hoping to source the cast iron ones to open up the size of the firebox a bit more - Thanks in advance... Willy

Welcome, Willy.

Your Model F is the same size as my Glenwood Sunny 208. Both were the smallest in the Glenwood lineup of ranges. For more about it see the Cookin' With Coal thread here, Cookin' With Coal

With this being a coal forum, expect to be asked, why switch it over to wood ?

Even with the firebricks out and liners in, you won't gain much. Only about an inch in width and about 2 in length. You'll be putting wood in it every 3-4 hours. And dealing with relighting a cold range every morning. Been there with a couple of cords of wood run through mine. Found it was far less work to keep a coal fire going and our size ranges will run easily 10-12 hours on a full firebox of nut coal.

Plus, coal will give much more constant heat output with no need to worry about overheating the range burning wood, or cleaning creosote out of the oven flues if you don't run it really hot.

But if your heart is really set on wood, contact member Wilson (screen name wilsonswoodstoves). 508-763-8941. He had a Model F in his shop and may have what you need.

Oh, BTW, we love pictures of stoves. Would love to see pix of your Model F.

Paul

Thanks Paul - I sent Wilson a message - Here's a pic of our Glenwood F 207

Very nice, Willy, Thank you.

Interesting that while they "modernized" the bottom half, the mantel, shelf and trivets are the same as my 1903.

What's the year on yours ? It's part of the part number on each piece.

You mention "thick bricks" for liner. Are they the very thick bricks used as replacements for wood stoves ?

The original Glenwood fireclay bricks were only 3/4 inch thick. That gives the firebox room to hold about 25 pounds of nut coal.

Paul

Hi Paul,

I believe the 207 was made around 1910 - There are several parts that say 1903 and several that say 1910 - I believe the stove was refurbished twice in its lifetime. The firebrick is about 1-1/4" thick and I have learned from others that the cast iron linings would only be 3/4" thick. I have already removed the front & rear brick in order to burn wood which gives me a 6" x 15" firebox right now. I have been splitting my wood very thin (no more than 3" thick) and it is burning wonderfully. We live on 10 acres of forest, so we get all of our wood for free. (Hence why I want to burn wood vs coal) - See the photo attached showing the firebox with questions I had sent out to some different folks who might be able to get me parts for this old stove. Trying to learn as much as I can plus get plenty of replacement parts for it so I can use it for the next 20 years...

1-1/4, wow, those bricks are thick. No wonder you can't fit much in there.

When I recast new bricks for mine last summer, I made them the original 3/4 inch thick. Gives more coal capacity, which gives more BTU's, and/or, longer burn times. Not just for more heat output but to get higher temps needed for frying and for baking anything over 400F, such as some breads and pizza,

One alternative to swapping grates is, Woodmans Parts in NH has recasts of the Glenwood range "wood plate", or what some call a "summer plate". Used so you don't have to swap bricks, iron liners, grates and grate frame. It's a flat, cast iron plate that just gets placed on top of the coal grates. And it has small holes to better support a bed of wood embers. For wood, it's the reverse of coal - you use mostly secondary over-fire air from the slide damper in the broiler door (coal burns from the bottom up - wood burns from the top down).

Woodman's also has some cast iron liners, but I'm not sure if they fit a Model F. You'd need to call them with actual measurements.

FYI, even with the iron liners, you won't be able to get enough wood in the firebox and have it burn hot enough to prevent creosote and still have a recoverable fire when you wake up. And restarting a wood fire gets old after using coal and on cold mornings you come down to a warm kitchen, a tea kettle near boiling, and a stove ready to cook breakfast. If you don't want to be spoiled, don't use coal.

I see you have the "Dock Ash" type coal grates. Make sure to turn them 180 degrees clockwise at least once a day. That not only dumps the clinkers while they are still rather small and easily broken up, but it also evens out the heat stress on the grate bars, thus reduces the likelihood of warping. Something the previous wood-burning owner of my range did not do.

I had one good triangular grate bar and gear for a pattern, so I sent it to Tomahawk Foundry to cast new grate bars and gears, plus spares - keeping the original parts as patterns, just in case I ever need to have more cast. And I made extra fire bricks. Like you I plan on using this range for many years. We use it for all our cooking/baking for about 9 months of the year since 2005, plus it heats the back half of our house, dries our clothes, etc.

Paul

Quite a lot of us coal burners here have “free” wood also….

The only thing free, on this entire planet, is air. They haven't figured a way to tax us on that. (But I'm sure it's coming). Other than that...nothing is FREE.

If i was gave 100cords of cut split n dried firewood i would sell it n buy coal. I start off burnin wood in my range n it last about 2 hours till i get tired off wood n switch to coal

Okay wood cook-stove aficionados, I have two (2) more questions about my Glenwood F #207 wood cook-stove.

1) This stove was designed to use wood or coal. On the firebox front you can clearly see the coal grate crank but there are two other odd details on the lower stationary door front that I don't know what they were designed for??? (See attached photo) Anybody know what these are for?
2) On the top of the stove is a "Check Damper" that slides into the chimney flu. (And of course, I have a chimney damper I installed as well.) So, does this "Check Damper" help hold the heat in the oven chamber when baking OR is it just another damper to slow down the fire...?

Thanks in advance...

They are stop pins for the special crank handle unique to that model range. You put the handle on and turn it 180 degrees clockwise until the handle contacts the stop pins, to grind and dump ash and clinkers into the ash pan. The pins stop the handle so that the grates are realigned horizontally to support a firebed.

If you turn it counterclockwise, it packs ash against the sides of the firebed instead of dumping them. Not a good thing !

The teardrop shaped swing cover next to the grate axle stub opens another hole in the center to use other types of grates. Glenwood offered about 6 types of grates. Some specific to coal, some to wood, and some that are "combo" grates for using either fuel. Plus, an optional wood plate to lay on top of the coal grates.

Those questions, and everything else you might want to know about early ranges and their use, were covered in great detail, with pictures, in the Cookin With Coal thread that I linked to in my first post.

Paul

Thanks Sunny Boy

Your very welcome Willie. Hope to see your contributions to the Cookin With Coal thread.

And yes, Cookin' With Wood is allowed.,.... at least in that thread.

Paul