Glenwood #6 Base heater too tall for flue attachment
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Hi,
I have a Glenwood No. 6 baseheater and I'm getting ready to do something I will regret, as I don't see any other choice.
I just installed the GW on the hearthpad and it sits 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches too high for the rear pipe to attach to the flue pipe. I can't pull the stove out any further, so I'm forced to cut the legs down.
I don't know what else I could do. Are there shorter legs that I could install on the GW base? I'm at my wits end and trying to get this stove installed before I freeze.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
I have a Glenwood No. 6 baseheater and I'm getting ready to do something I will regret, as I don't see any other choice.
I just installed the GW on the hearthpad and it sits 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches too high for the rear pipe to attach to the flue pipe. I can't pull the stove out any further, so I'm forced to cut the legs down.
I don't know what else I could do. Are there shorter legs that I could install on the GW base? I'm at my wits end and trying to get this stove installed before I freeze.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
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- D-frost
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Cos....
If 90* elbows will not work, try flex-pipe. Nice looking set-up.
Cheers
If 90* elbows will not work, try flex-pipe. Nice looking set-up.
Cheers
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D-Frost. I don't think I have enough clearance for a flex pipe. Unfortunately, the pics I submitted, came out sideways.
- tsb
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I would chisel out the hearth before I would cut the legs. Either top or bottom.
- Sunny Boy
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Some knock a hole through above the mantel and cement a pipe thimble there. Then pipe it up to the thimble with single wall pipe.
Plus, that gives you a straight length to install a pipe damper. And you gain a bit more heat by having more length of pipe in the room.
And, if you ever take the stove out, it's a lot easier to close and patch over the thimble than it is to fix the cutoff legs.
Paul
Plus, that gives you a straight length to install a pipe damper. And you gain a bit more heat by having more length of pipe in the room.
And, if you ever take the stove out, it's a lot easier to close and patch over the thimble than it is to fix the cutoff legs.
Paul
- D-frost
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Cosmo.....
A couple months back, a member was trying to do an insert install, with a similar issue. He ended up having an adapter fabricated......I think the stove was a Buck 24, or something like that. That thread has a lot of good suggestions. I'll try to find it. For what it's worth, I would never, ever, in a hundred years, cut the legs on that beauty...just sayin'
Cheers
EDIT: The name of the thread is "My stove won't fit, I need help".....lots of ideas there
A couple months back, a member was trying to do an insert install, with a similar issue. He ended up having an adapter fabricated......I think the stove was a Buck 24, or something like that. That thread has a lot of good suggestions. I'll try to find it. For what it's worth, I would never, ever, in a hundred years, cut the legs on that beauty...just sayin'
Cheers
EDIT: The name of the thread is "My stove won't fit, I need help".....lots of ideas there
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Thank you all! I will check out that thread, D-Frost!
Unfortunately, there's a load bearing steel bar going across the top of the fireplace and behind it is concrete and brick. I'd have to use stiff legs to support the rock and brick.
Also, if I try to go up with a pipe and through top of mantel, I still have the issue of having to pull the stove out to run the pipe and there's not enough hearth pad left. Maybe I can add some nice flat rock to the perimeter of the pad, so I can pull stove out more. Just eats into the living room but my options seem limited. I will check out that thread. Thanks again for advice, all!
Unfortunately, there's a load bearing steel bar going across the top of the fireplace and behind it is concrete and brick. I'd have to use stiff legs to support the rock and brick.
Also, if I try to go up with a pipe and through top of mantel, I still have the issue of having to pull the stove out to run the pipe and there's not enough hearth pad left. Maybe I can add some nice flat rock to the perimeter of the pad, so I can pull stove out more. Just eats into the living room but my options seem limited. I will check out that thread. Thanks again for advice, all!
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Hi Cosmo, You don’t need to cut the legs and please don’t it’s not the only option.
First where are you ? There are plenty of guys here who know how to achieve that kind of offset with adjustable elbows. Maybe there’s someone near you who can help.
I’ll give it a day or two and if help isn’t offered I’ll make a vid for you it’s super easy, 10 minute job tops
If nothing else reinstall the chubby till we can get you fixed up
steve
First where are you ? There are plenty of guys here who know how to achieve that kind of offset with adjustable elbows. Maybe there’s someone near you who can help.
I’ll give it a day or two and if help isn’t offered I’ll make a vid for you it’s super easy, 10 minute job tops
If nothing else reinstall the chubby till we can get you fixed up
steve
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I would see how much it would cost to raise the lintel up a few inches.
- tcalo
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I would just extend the hearth. As it sits now that’s a fire hazard. 18” is code. I’d hate for a hot ember to roll out onto them or for something worse to happen and insurance denies the claim.
- Sunny Boy
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As Tommy said, the "backpipe" is not a pipe on the GW #6 & #8.
It's a two-piece casting with a curved cast baffle inside, plus a direct/indirect damper. Can't be flipped because of the way it fits to the base and the bustle of the stove.
Paul