restoration costs?

 
Jaydub
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Post by Jaydub » Thu. Oct. 28, 2021 12:57 pm

Looking for some input on ballpark figures for the cost typically of restoring a medium size cylinder stove. I realize there are a lot of variables. I would do all the disassembly, reassembly, hardware, re-lining of the firepot and painting myself.

~cost to have a new barrel rolled and best barrel material (not looking for st steel)
~cost to have all the cast iron professionally sandblasted on a moderately ornate stove with the appropriate media,
~or, what it will cost to buy a half-decent blaster that will do the job along with enough media - outdoor setup
~cost for any minor welding or brazing of cast iron
~cost for nickel plating - again, on a medium size stove with moderate amount of plating

Again, I realize it's almost impossible to address something this broad. Just looking for some idea.


 
KingCoal
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Post by KingCoal » Thu. Oct. 28, 2021 7:09 pm

What make and model stove and how bout some pics. There are guys who could get you without $10.00 with that much information 👍

 
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mntbugy
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Post by mntbugy » Thu. Oct. 28, 2021 8:19 pm

Jaydub wrote:
Thu. Oct. 28, 2021 12:57 pm

~cost to have a new barrel rolled and best barrel material (not looking for st steel)

: oiled & pickled aka" black" sheetmetal . Local sheetmetal shop. About 100 buck for smooth barrel. Barrel with fancy wrinkles 200 buck at well equipped shop.

~cost to have all the cast iron professionally sandblasted on a moderately ornate stove with the appropriate media,

: $35+ an hour. About 4-5hrs.

~or, what it will cost to buy a half-decent blaster that will do the job along with enough media - outdoor setup

: If you don't have a BIG air compressor and pressure pot already or plan on doing 10 of your own stove. EXPENSIVE!!!!!

~cost for any minor welding or brazing of cast iron

: $50 a crack, bigger cracks cost more.

~cost for nickel plating - again, on a medium size stove with moderate amount of plating

: About $700-800

Again, I realize it's almost impossible to address something this broad. Just looking for some idea.
Just some ballpark numbers.

 
Jaydub
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Post by Jaydub » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 6:36 am

Thanks 'KingCoal', I have a restored Quaker #6 base heater in my shop (functionally restored, not re-nickeled), but for our LR I don't have stove yet - was looking for some numbers I can apply generally to assess the total cost of a potential project.

I have seen a few 'Oak' type stoves - but it looks like they send exhaust gasses straight up the flue; also a couple 'Florence' stoves that seem to have a rear recirculating tube? We also like the looks of the smaller 'Modern Glenwood Oak' stoves. Are the 'Florences' with the rear tube or the 'Modern Glenwoods' any more efficient with their design than other cylinder stoves? Not asking about the Glenwood base heaters, I know those are very efficient but we don't have room for one. I'll be using anthracite as well as wood during the transition seasons.

So I'm hoping to find something that's efficient like a smaller base heater that's not too deep in the back and can vent straight up and close to the body of the stove without the elbow. We don't have room for a large base heater in our LR or want to overheat the room, so something that has a level of efficiency by some type of recirculating design but is more compact, and can also be dialed down when needed for a more enclosed area - definitely open to suggestions.

Thanks 'mntbugy' for those numbers, that is really helpful!

I'm near Ann Arbor, MI and costs may be higher in this area but it definitely gives me an idea. I do have a larger compressor - 5 hp, maybe 30 gallon tank, good quality Rolair pump, air cooler setup, but I forget what the cfm is. It's large enough for the small amount of spraying I do but I'm probably not going to invest in sandblasting equipment at this point. I have access to a company with a huge professional sandblasting setup that I've used before. I'll give them a call and see what their rate is, but I'm starting to think that costs could end up closer to $1200 or more, and it might make more sense to find something in 'good' condition for a good price, rather than 'rough' condition for a very low price. Time to do some more 'homework', but your estimates are very helpful!

Now for any stove suggestions!

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 7:26 am

Any Oak that has a back pipe (indirect draft) will be more efficient than a "direct draft" Oak. The back pipe adds several square feet of extra heat extracting surface, plus it helps slow the exhaust speed to allow more heat transfer time.

A back pipe Oak is almost as good as a similar sized cylinder type base heater.

Paul

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 8:20 am

A suspended pot base burner may fit your needs quite well. Very compact design, can be set up to exhaust straight up if needed and they can be idled very low.

 
Jaydub
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Post by Jaydub » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 9:13 am

'tc', I like the sounds of that - sounds perfect! Who were some manufacturers who made a suspended pot base burner? If there's something like that with lots of mica that would be the 'cat's meow'!

And 'Sunny', were there models other than some of the Florences that had indirect draft?


 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 9:57 am

Jaydub wrote:
Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 9:13 am
Who were some manufacturers who made a suspended pot base burner? If there's something like that with lots of mica that would be the 'cat's meow'!
There are many manufacturers that made suspended pot stoves, some of the better known companies being Crawford and Glenwood. There are also mica burners, not quite sure how those stoves vent though. Here’s a pic of my Crawford suspended pot stove.

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mntbugy
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Post by mntbugy » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 11:37 am

OP stated he wants to burn some wood.
That means NO mica baseburners for sure.
If OP burns wood in a baseheater, it will destroy it faster than coal.

Oak style stove is the "best" choice for both.
Florence stoves have special issues in the back attachment. Be prepared to buy a couple to get one good one.

Glenwoods and Herald's with back pipe option, are rare as hens teeth in Michigan.

P.D. Beckwith Round Oak, or newer Round Oaks are popular in your area. Maybe a Illinois, Radiant Home, Great Western.
Just some other options.

The guys out in your area, drive East to get stoves. Better choices and prices.

 
Jaydub
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Post by Jaydub » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 12:22 pm

'Mnt', I was wondering if it's a good idea to use wood with a lot of mica - I'm guessing it smokes up the mica and will break it if you're not using small pieces and loading real carefully - any other reason? Also, why is wood bad for a base heater, other than destroying the grate that covers the rear flue?

If I had to give up something it would be wood - how much wood would I chuck? All of it.

Thanks for the other recommendations as well.

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 12:53 pm

mntbugy wrote:
Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 11:37 am
OP stated he wants to burn some wood.
That means NO mica baseburners for sure.
If OP burns wood in a baseheater, it will destroy it faster than coal.

Oak style stove is the "best" choice for both.
Ahh…yes. This man right here is 100% right. I missed the part about wood!

 
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mntbugy
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Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
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Post by mntbugy » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 2:19 pm

Wood makes mica dirty real fast, in minutes.

Mica is tough, it can handle 1680 degree.

Wood exhaust is 3x hotter than coal exhaust.

Stoves like the one above have the same trouble areas with coal. Wood burning makes that trouble 10x worse.

 
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mntbugy
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Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
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Post by mntbugy » Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 4:59 pm

Jaydub, A member on here has a nice Modern Glenwood Oak 116 for sale with the fancy back pipe option. It vents straight out the top. Freshly clean up. Ready for coal or wood.. The nickel is not redone, but is a nice looker. He asking $800 for it.

The bad news he is in central PA. It's about a 7hr drive. That's not far for a good fitting heater for you. A professional restored one is 3x that amount.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 30, 2021 5:13 am

Jaydub wrote:
Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 9:13 am
'tc', I like the sounds of that - sounds perfect! Who were some manufacturers who made a suspended pot base burner? If there's something like that with lots of mica that would be the 'cat's meow'!

And 'Sunny', were there models other than some of the Florences that had indirect draft?
Yes, any of the Glenwood Oak models could be ordered with a back pipe. I have two Glenwood 118 Modern Oak and each originally had the "indirect draft" option. And since early stove makers copied heavily from each other, I'm sure there are some other brands of Oak stoves that had a similar back pipe setup.

Paul

 
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Sunny Boy
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Location: Central NY
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 30, 2021 5:23 am

mntbugy wrote:
Fri. Oct. 29, 2021 4:59 pm
Jaydub, A member on here has a nice Modern Glenwood Oak 116 for sale with the fancy back pipe option. It vents straight out the top. Freshly clean up. Ready for coal or wood.. The nickel is not redone, but is a nice looker. He asking $800 for it.

The bad news he is in central PA. It's about a 7hr drive. That's not far for a good fitting heater for you. A professional restored one is 3x that amount.
And I'll add that 116 is the most common size for a house. We have a member here who is heating her house in Canada with a 116 without a back pipe. It has a 16 inch firepot that holds about 50 pounds of nut coal. Will give long burn times. And it can be idled down so as not to over heat you in warmer weather, or big enough to throw some serious heat in really cold weather,..... or just throw a quick burning wood fire in it to take the chill off.

The suspended pot stoves that tcalo mentioned are much more efficient at coal than an Oak stove. A more complex design that sends the heat down into the base to keep the firepot and firebed at optimum burn temps. But not real good for wood because they are not as easy to clean the internal flues as a back pipe Oak. And there's some say a wood fire could damage the firepot, which are unlined in a suspended pot stove. Plus they are not as common and very likely to cost more.

However, if you can find one that meets with your price, and you only intend to use it for coal, it's a much better choice than an Oak and even many base heaters.

There are some base heaters that are meant to also burn wood. The Glenwood #6 and #8 came with a "wood plate" that sits right on top of the coal grates. Even says "Wood and Coal" right on the top of the loading door. Several of our members burn wood in their Glenwood base heaters, including occasionally me in my GW #6. But unlike the back pipes of an Oak, which can be set up to exhaust straight up from the top of the back pipe,... or with the addition of a pipe collar to the back pipe, through an elbow,... the GW base heaters can only vent through an elbow which is what they originally came with.

Paul


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