GW#6 T minus 11 and counting
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
I’m still using 30 pounds a day at present.
I went thru a learning curve of dealing with the fact that this stove loves to run at around .005 and throws very nice heat doing it
If we get wind along with the negative still air next week it would be cool to use 40 pounds in 24 hours because that would be a 33% reduction of fuel use in similar conditions before the house updates
I went thru a learning curve of dealing with the fact that this stove loves to run at around .005 and throws very nice heat doing it
If we get wind along with the negative still air next week it would be cool to use 40 pounds in 24 hours because that would be a 33% reduction of fuel use in similar conditions before the house updates
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
By the way Art what stove you using in the front room now ?
- mntbugy
- Member
- Posts: 2041
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2016 2:36 pm
- Location: clearfield,pa
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: D S 1500, Warm Moring 400
- Baseburners & Antiques: Art Garland 145,GW114 ,Clarion 115, Vestal 20 Globe,New Royal22 Globe, Red Cross Oak 56,Acme Ventiduct 38,Radiant Airblast 626,Home Airblast 62,Moores #7,Moores 3way
- Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
- Other Heating: Propain
Lillian 110 still. Waiting for horsepower test.
33% is a nice reduction.
33% is a nice reduction.
Attachments
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
I guess you won’t be needing the Clarion this year lol
- mntbugy
- Member
- Posts: 2041
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2016 2:36 pm
- Location: clearfield,pa
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: D S 1500, Warm Moring 400
- Baseburners & Antiques: Art Garland 145,GW114 ,Clarion 115, Vestal 20 Globe,New Royal22 Globe, Red Cross Oak 56,Acme Ventiduct 38,Radiant Airblast 626,Home Airblast 62,Moores #7,Moores 3way
- Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
- Other Heating: Propain
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
Ok over the months I’ve figured out how to burn very little coal but.....
With actual cold ( 3F and -13 real feel ) Im loosing ground over night. House was 60 degrees this morning and since tending at 5am has come up to 65F by 7:30am, not very fast results
Sooooo all you veterans of 6’s and 8’s what’s your process and settings for established cold weather?
Thanks
steve
With actual cold ( 3F and -13 real feel ) Im loosing ground over night. House was 60 degrees this morning and since tending at 5am has come up to 65F by 7:30am, not very fast results
Sooooo all you veterans of 6’s and 8’s what’s your process and settings for established cold weather?
Thanks
steve
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
Well DUH, sometimes you change equipment and get the idea that the basics have been altered too
It don’t work like that. The way you get there might change ( slightly ) but you still cause the same effect
Sitting here thinking about how easy it was when I had the advantage of a bi metal therm. and how it would automatically open the primary air supply to hold a comfort setting when the envelope cooled.
Right ya cracker, open the primaries some and open the dampers to hold -.02 on the Mano. Presto 5 degree rise throughout the house in 45 minutes. Guess I need to review my own signature lines more often
“ if it was any simpler it wouldn’t work “
It don’t work like that. The way you get there might change ( slightly ) but you still cause the same effect
Sitting here thinking about how easy it was when I had the advantage of a bi metal therm. and how it would automatically open the primary air supply to hold a comfort setting when the envelope cooled.
Right ya cracker, open the primaries some and open the dampers to hold -.02 on the Mano. Presto 5 degree rise throughout the house in 45 minutes. Guess I need to review my own signature lines more often
“ if it was any simpler it wouldn’t work “
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
what sort of pics would you like ? these stoves aren't well known for fire view LOL
- tsb
- Member
- Posts: 2616
- Joined: Wed. Jul. 30, 2008 8:38 pm
- Location: Douglassville, Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Binford 2000
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Pioneer top vent
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Saey Hanover II
- Baseburners & Antiques: Grander Golden Oak , Glenwood # 6
- Coal Size/Type: All of them
Sooooo all you veterans of 6’s and 8’s what’s your process and settings for established cold weather?
Run it hot and open a window if necessary. These stoves were designed to heat not lay around roasting coal a pound at a time. Open it up. Let it run. Tend it every 8 hrs instead of 12 or 14.
Run it hot and open a window if necessary. These stoves were designed to heat not lay around roasting coal a pound at a time. Open it up. Let it run. Tend it every 8 hrs instead of 12 or 14.
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
TSB, good advise. I've been holding back on going hotter than I have to cause the paint and polish isn't completely cure yet and starts to smell
I guess i'll just put a box fan in the closest window and let her rock
Thanks
steve
I guess i'll just put a box fan in the closest window and let her rock
Thanks
steve
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
First day of running 40 pounds thru the #6
Since I was running well under that I had plenty of room to still tend it at 12 hours and frankly if I ever get a stove that won’t produce at least a 70 degree margin from zero or under OAT and not make it 12 hours it’ll go back out the door
I built frankenstoves that would do that in this house while it still had hundred year old windows, doors and no insulation
This 6 has about 50 pounds in the pot and another 27 in the magazine and it’s still not emptying the mag in 12 hours
Anyway, very easy to do once I got past my DOH moment
Thanks
steve
Since I was running well under that I had plenty of room to still tend it at 12 hours and frankly if I ever get a stove that won’t produce at least a 70 degree margin from zero or under OAT and not make it 12 hours it’ll go back out the door
I built frankenstoves that would do that in this house while it still had hundred year old windows, doors and no insulation
This 6 has about 50 pounds in the pot and another 27 in the magazine and it’s still not emptying the mag in 12 hours
Anyway, very easy to do once I got past my DOH moment
Thanks
steve
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
Well had the first ash bridge in the GW #6 to he last couple days. It was so subtle that I didn’t even realize it the first 36 hours. It ends up the dome was pretty close to the bottom of the magazine.
What was happening was that a small amount of ash was still getting past on the far left and right sides of the bridge and grates but the level of the coal in the magazine was hardly moving down, slow but obvious give away.
So, I got the ash pan out and a flash light so I could align and see up thru the grated and use the angle poker to break up the bridge and get it down on the grates to shake it loose and out. After all that I had hot coal at the grate level and was getting usable heat at a smaller primary settings than when the bridge was intact
Don’t know how I managed to induce this but found and corrected it and all is well.
Thanks
steve
What was happening was that a small amount of ash was still getting past on the far left and right sides of the bridge and grates but the level of the coal in the magazine was hardly moving down, slow but obvious give away.
So, I got the ash pan out and a flash light so I could align and see up thru the grated and use the angle poker to break up the bridge and get it down on the grates to shake it loose and out. After all that I had hot coal at the grate level and was getting usable heat at a smaller primary settings than when the bridge was intact
Don’t know how I managed to induce this but found and corrected it and all is well.
Thanks
steve
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25547
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
If you run it hot in really cold weather, it's going to bridge.
Except on the warm, slow-running days, my GW #6 will bridge by the time it's ready for its 12 hour shake and refuel. Changing brands of coal doesn't make a difference.
So, I just plan on dealing with the bridge as part of each tending.
To start, I open the MPD and direct damper and then top off the magazine. That gets the coal heating in the mag which helps reduce recovery time.
I rotate the grates 2/3 turn. That clears any cooler clinkers and ash off the grate without risk of dumping any unburned coal (1/3 turn never is enough to clear then after a 12 hour run).
Then I poke down along the bricks at least 180 degrees of the firebed with a right-angle poker to break the bridge loose from the bricks. Since by then, it's mostly ash right next to the bricks because the mag mainly feeds the middle of the firebed with fresh coal, there is no risk of the poking making more clinkers - like would happen if I poked where the coals were still burning near the fusion temperature.
Once the bridge collapse, I shake the grates until I see a glow in the ash pan while looking in though the primary dampers.
Then I re-top off the mag and set the dampers. That takes a little more than 5 minutes.
Add a few more minutes to one of the 12-hour tendings to empty the ash pan after all the shaking.
Paul
Except on the warm, slow-running days, my GW #6 will bridge by the time it's ready for its 12 hour shake and refuel. Changing brands of coal doesn't make a difference.
So, I just plan on dealing with the bridge as part of each tending.
To start, I open the MPD and direct damper and then top off the magazine. That gets the coal heating in the mag which helps reduce recovery time.
I rotate the grates 2/3 turn. That clears any cooler clinkers and ash off the grate without risk of dumping any unburned coal (1/3 turn never is enough to clear then after a 12 hour run).
Then I poke down along the bricks at least 180 degrees of the firebed with a right-angle poker to break the bridge loose from the bricks. Since by then, it's mostly ash right next to the bricks because the mag mainly feeds the middle of the firebed with fresh coal, there is no risk of the poking making more clinkers - like would happen if I poked where the coals were still burning near the fusion temperature.
Once the bridge collapse, I shake the grates until I see a glow in the ash pan while looking in though the primary dampers.
Then I re-top off the mag and set the dampers. That takes a little more than 5 minutes.
Add a few more minutes to one of the 12-hour tendings to empty the ash pan after all the shaking.
Paul
- tsb
- Member
- Posts: 2616
- Joined: Wed. Jul. 30, 2008 8:38 pm
- Location: Douglassville, Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Binford 2000
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Pioneer top vent
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Saey Hanover II
- Baseburners & Antiques: Grander Golden Oak , Glenwood # 6
- Coal Size/Type: All of them
I'm going to burn pea in the G6 so it'll be a all new learning curve.