Glen Oak 215

 
Mdiluzio
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Baseburners & Antiques: Glenn Oak 215

Post by Mdiluzio » Thu. Jan. 23, 2020 10:55 pm

Last year I bought a Glen Oak 215. I was able to find that it was made by the Buckwalter Co in PA but nothing much more than that. I am beginning to restore it and know very little. It is in great aesthetic shape but functionally needs some work. The shaker system is missing one of the rollers and its the main one that hooks up to the crank handle (which I have). Does anyone know a company who sells or refabricates? I checked ebay and Woodman's Parts Plus (WPP). I ordered an ash box from WPP and mica from another company I can't remember. Do I need to seal the seams on the inside with fireplace mortar or anything? Fire brick liner? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Even if you just point me to a site or YouTube channel where someone does this type of step by step work.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Jan. 24, 2020 6:23 am

Pix would really help M

 
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Baseburners & Antiques: Glenn Oak 215

Post by Mdiluzio » Fri. Jan. 24, 2020 7:15 am

Here are some pictures...

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Glen Oak 215 - Parts

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Glen Oak 215

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Glen Oak 215 - Name Plates

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Glen Oak 215 - Missing rocker

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Glen Oak 215 - Shaker Grate

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Glen Oak 215 - Shake and Rocker Svc

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Glen Oak 215 - Ash Area and 1 Rocker

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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Jan. 24, 2020 7:38 am

Good on the pix. Mortar on the seams wouldn't hurt, ya want to get her as tight as possible!!! Nice project M. :) Guys more familiar with the stove will chime in soon, I'd bet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
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Post by Mdiluzio » Mon. Jan. 27, 2020 11:31 am

Thanks for the reply Fred. Are you supposed to use those rope gaskets too?

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 27, 2020 12:02 pm

Mdiluzio wrote:
Mon. Jan. 27, 2020 11:31 am
Thanks for the reply Fred. Are you supposed to use those rope gaskets too?
Originally they just used seam sealer like Fred said. Antique stoves are not "airtight" in the modern sense. The doors had no gaskets, they were just well fitted, but cast iron will sometimes change shape with repeated heating/cooling as casting stresses in the metal are relieved.

The stoves were designed to work well with a slight amount of air leakage around the doors. Unless the doors are badly warped, gasketing won't make as much difference in how well the stove works as you might expect.

Some guys glue on gaskets, or form high-temp silicon gaskets anyway. I've never seen the need when a few minutes with a hand file, and tweaking the fit of door hinges, will get doors to seal well, as originally designed, and not have to wonder when the gaskets will fall off. Been there.

Paul

 
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Post by Mdiluzio » Mon. Jan. 27, 2020 12:27 pm

Thanks for the reply Paul. The doors are very good fits and I imagine if the stove is vented/drafts properly, any gaps will be pulling air and not putting any out into the room. I have another question about preservation. There were a couple pieces that had a coating of rust (nothing pitted). I put them through a bath of Evapo-Rust (which is some kind of rust killing miracle that doesn't eat away any of the metal) that made them look like brand new cast iron. I'd like to protect the metal now and am considering either a paint with cast iron color or if any high temp paint companies make a clear coat. Does anyone have a preference in company. I've read mixed reviews of VHT Flame Proof. Any guidance would be fantastic.
-Matt


 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 27, 2020 2:08 pm

I doubt your stove had bare cast iron when new. So even using a clear won't give the stove the contrast it very likely had originally. Unless that is the look you want and not what was original. The rusted areas were likely a high temp black, or silver, that has long ago worn off or was stripped off by a previous owner. For any cast iron or steel stove parts that were not plated, the most common color was black, then silver less common.

Some of the high temp rattle-can paints are rated at 1200 degrees, but they are not a good vapor barrier. The antique auto industry has had lots of problems using them on exhaust systems and having it rust though the paint within months. Especially the low gloss and flat finish variety. Same for some of the BBQ paints on BBQ's left outdoors. Sometimes you can increase the corrosion inhibiting by first putting on a coating of silver high temp and then black over that. The silver paints are all aluminum powder which acts as a sacrificial metal rather than the iron/steel corroding.

I use a heavy bodied paint made specifically for stoves that has better adhesion and actually holds up better against corrosion than the automotive and BBQ high temp paints. It's the only paint that withstand the high exhaust manifold temps of the air-cooled engines I work on.

Thurmalox stove paints. Comes in many colors, too.
http://www.stovepaint.com/

Paul

 
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Post by Mdiluzio » Sat. Feb. 29, 2020 9:27 am

Update and questions.
The project is coming along nicely. I've got some pictures of the cleaned, painted/cured parts, the evaporust working it's magic and finally the back wall of the fire chamber area.
Questions...
1. The back wall is really thin metal. Definitely not like the thick cast iron door area. Is that originally how they were or did someone make it for restoration?
2. I've read some threads about liners. Is that piece possibly a liner and I'm missing the back outer wall?
3. If its all original, do I need some sort of liner?
4. When I was taking the front door frame area off the back thin metal there were 6 screws with nuts running up each side. Every single screw snapped from the torque and being so old and corroded. I was going to replace with brass screws and nuts. Figured they wouldn't corrode and they accent the golden colored nickel until they get dark in time. Any reason brass wouldn't be a good idea?

Thanks for all the replies and help! This forum and community is really great.

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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Feb. 29, 2020 10:29 am

Your making good progress, M. It's going to be a good looking stove ! :clap:

1. Yes sheet metal barrels with a cast iron face frame were vey common.
2. What piece ????
3, Firebrick (fireclay) liners were often just an option when buying a stove to use with coal. While not needed for wood, with coal, a liner extends the life of the firepot and also helps hold heat in the firebed to get more complete combustion of coal. So yes, adding a liner will help.
4. Brass has a much lower melting point than steel. If the firebed were to somehow get out of control (it happens when we forget to close dampers) the brass screws might get hot enough to soften and fail at holding the frame and barrel together. Brass screws were available when these stoves were built but the manufactures choose steel screws for a reason.
Paul

 
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Post by KingCoal » Sat. Feb. 29, 2020 11:15 am

to get alittle further into the question about the sheet metal barrel. yes as Paul has said the sheet metal barrel was and still is the original way.

and, to answer what I thought you were asking the sheet metal barrel is the whole deal, there wasn't a heavy outer wall for that part of the stove and none of that area needs a liner.

as Paul has said the fire pots are often given a 3/4" refractory lining.

steve

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Feb. 29, 2020 11:37 am

Thanks Steve. I wasn't sure what he was asking with question #2.

Paul

 
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Post by Mdiluzio » Sun. Mar. 01, 2020 11:02 pm

Thanks Steve and Paul. I'm sorry I didn't get back to your question sooner Paul but yes Steve got the translation right.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!

 
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Post by Mdiluzio » Tue. Apr. 07, 2020 10:47 pm

Plugging along still. I've now got 3 coats of paint cured and I'm starting the reassembly! Starting from the ground up. See pictures.
I did find a hairline crack in the top of the stove. I'll post pictures of it. Everything I've read says to get ithe welded so it doesn't get worse. Everyone agree?
I'm also missing half of the coal grate and would like to purchase a wood grate. No real luck on woodmans parts plus AND I saw Bryant Stoves is closed permanently. Any suggestions?
Also... any thoughts on applying furnace cement? Would you put the cement down then fit the pieces (kind of like you would laying bricks) or would you fit the pieces then lay the cement (kind of like grouting tile)?
Thanks for the support guys. It's been quite a long project but I can just about see the light at the end of the tunnel!

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Assembling the base

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Pieces ready to go

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Crack from top

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Crack from bottom

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Sunny Boy
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Wed. Apr. 08, 2020 12:34 am

Looks wonderful, M.

I'd recommend putting it together without sealer first, as a trial to make sure everything fits and see how your going to hold parts in place. Then take it apart and assemble it with sealer.

Ideally that crack should be welded, but if you can't find a qualified cast iron welder, drill a "stopper hole" at the end of it and you can use the stove until you do find a welder. The hole only has to be 1/8 inch diameter at most. Just make sure it's at the very end of the crack and goes all the way through. Then the crack won't travel any further with expansion and contraction of heating and cooling. Temporarily fill the hole with a dab of seam sealer.

It's worth a try to email a picture and measurements of the grate half you have to Al at Tomahawk Foundry. He may have cast some before, or ones similar enough to work. If he doesn't have a pattern, he may remember who he did the work for so that you might be able to work a deal to borrow one to use as a pattern for recasting.

Paul


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