City Glenwood No.10 For Sale

wilsons woodstoves · Post by **wilsons woodstoves** » Tue. Jan. 21, 2020 6:41 pm

City Glenwood No.10 for sale:
Has been restored and used off and on for years, in great working condition. Good original nickel, new grate, new lining, and back pipe.

Asking $450, Ready to be hooked up.

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Tue. Jan. 21, 2020 8:54 pm

Approximate btu rating?

wilsons woodstoves · Post by **wilsons woodstoves** » Wed. Jan. 22, 2020 4:14 pm

not sure of the btu output, stove is small on glenwood line, but has the optional back pipe. which is a morden oak 114 complete back pipe

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Fri. Mar. 06, 2020 8:31 pm

Did it sell?

Merc300d · Post by **Merc300d** » Fri. Mar. 06, 2020 10:51 pm

I’d send him a pm or try calling him. He has a stove that fits every persons needs , from small to large and everything in between.
Skip
508 763 8941

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 9:20 am

To get a rough idea of BTU's, figure how much coal the firepot can hold. That generally is at least how much it will burn though in 24 hours. Pushed harder in really cold weather, maybe as much as twice that.

Multiply that by the BTU's in a pound of anthracite and that's the maximum BTU's available. Then multiply that by about 60% heat transfer efficiency for most stoves - likely 70% for more efficient ones with longer flue pathways such as back pipe oaks, base burners, base heaters, kitchen ranges.

While not as accurate as measuring BTU's in a controlled lab setting, now you have a ball park figure for BTUs of that size stove. But then most stoves that do show BTU ratings seem to be way over reality. Some say as much as double ????

Way back in a thread about this topic we figured out that my kitchen range, with it's 25 pounds of nut coal firebox is around 15K BTU. But with it having more heat extracting area than even a big base heater it's not far off from it's big sister the Glenwood #6 Base Heater..... which doesn't have flues as long, or near as much heat extracting surface area as my small range.

And now you start to see why BTU ratings for antiques is not something mentioned much. Your more likely to hear the square footage that a stove can heat.

Paul

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 9:29 am

Ok. Any guess at how many square feet it can heat? No precision necessary, just curious.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 10:40 am

waytomany?s wrote: ↑
Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 9:29 am
Ok. Any guess at how many square feet it can heat? No precision necessary, just curious.

Your not giving enough info to even make a guesstimate.
Drafty old uninsulated house ?
Well insulated house?
Mid states winter ?
Cold northern states winter ?
House down in a valley sheltered by lots of trees, or out in the open on a windy hill ?
Or which combo of those ?

All of that is why heating instillation outfits do a heat loss survey of house before recommending an appliance size.

I'm heating about 1500 sq ft of old uninsulated Victorian in central NYS hill country with my kitchen range. Lots of big windows and tall ceilings. The range works fine until it gets down into the low 20's. Then it needs help from my electric furnace.

The rest of the house - about another 1500 sq ft, is heated with a GW #6. Ok until it gets into the upper teens, so it helps the kitchen range area of the house.

Once the temps stay above 45-50 outside, I don't need the base heater anymore, the range will do the whole place.

Very windy cold weather moves that "needs furnace help" point up about ten degrees.

Paul

LeoinRI · Post by **LeoinRI** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 11:43 am

How many BTU/Hour do you get If you measure the firepot square inches and multiply by 300-375 according to coalder's post?
Post by coalder - trivia

D.lapan · Post by **D.lapan** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 3:43 pm

It was still there yesterday Friday March 6th and heating his down stairs with it.

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 4:46 pm

Sunny Boy wrote: ↑
Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 9:20 am
To get a rough idea of BTU's, figure how much coal the firepot can hold. That generally is at least how much it will burn though in 24 hours. Pushed harder in really cold weather, maybe as much as twice that.

Multiply that by the BTU's in a pound of anthracite and that's the maximum BTU's available. Then multiply that by about 60% heat transfer efficiency for most stoves - likely 70% for more efficient ones with longer flue pathways such as back pipe oaks, base burners, base heaters, kitchen ranges.

While not as accurate as measuring BTU's in a controlled lab setting, now you have a ball park figure for BTUs of that size stove. But then most stoves that do show BTU ratings seem to be way over reality. Some say as much as double ????

Way back in a thread about this topic we figured out that my kitchen range, with it's 25 pounds of nut coal firebox is around 15K BTU. But with it having more heat extracting area than even a big base heater it's not far off from it's big sister the Glenwood #6 Base Heater..... which doesn't have flues as long, or near as much heat extracting surface area as my small range.

And now you start to see why BTU ratings for antiques is not something mentioned much. Your more likely to hear the square footage that a stove can heat.

Paul
[/quote)

That's what you said. So I said.

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 4:47 pm

Sunny Boy wrote: ↑
Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 10:40 am
Your not giving enough info to even make a guesstimate.
Drafty old uninsulated house ?
Well insulated house?
Mid states winter ?
Cold northern states winter ?
House down in a valley sheltered by lots of trees, or out in the open on a windy hill ?
Or which combo of those ?

All of that is why heating instillation outfits do a heat loss survey of house before recommending an appliance size.

I'm heating about 1500 sq ft of old uninsulated Victorian in central NYS hill country with my kitchen range. Lots of big windows and tall ceilings. The range works fine until it gets down into the low 20's. Then it needs help from my electric furnace.

The rest of the house - about another 1500 sq ft, is heated with a GW #6. Ok until it gets into the upper teens, so it helps the kitchen range area of the house.

Once the temps stay above 45-50 outside, I don't need the base heater anymore, the range will do the whole place.

Very windy cold weather moves that "needs furnace help" point up about ten degrees.

Paul

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 4:54 pm

I give. Struggling with the whole quote and respond thing. I can't make it do what I want. What I'm trying to say is that you stated old heaters weren't labeled by btu, but buy the area they heated. And then you stated you didn't have enough information to answer that. Did the ads back in the 1900's ask where you lived to make an assessment of what they could heat?

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 4:58 pm

Sorry. Upon rereading that, it made me sound like a dick. Not that I'm not at times, but I was trying to make the point that they had some way of quantifying the amount of heat produced. That's what I wanted to know.

D.lapan · Post by **D.lapan** » Sat. Mar. 07, 2020 5:03 pm

I suspect that little guy would easily heat a 1200sf open floor design that has decent modern insulation easily, they hold a fair amount of coal and once learned should burn for many hours, I can tell you if you call Wilson he will tell you exactly what it’s capabilities are

City Glenwood No.10 For Sale

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