Better’n Ben’s 801

I agree with you. However, I need about 10 feet of something plus two 45’s to get into my clay liner. I priced out single wall 24ga, 22ga, SS solid pipe, and full flex liner kits. Of course single wall 24 and 22ga I won’t get much life out of and SS hard piped is not cheap and I see from this forum people aren’t getting much of a life span either.

What I did find was some 5-1/2 for reasonable money I could cut it into sections use one section at a time. What worries me is the size. It should draft more but I don’t know the OD / ID to compare against.

I work for a company that buys a lot of Duravent nationally and their liners of course the are not warranted for coal, but they did say they could run me 10 feet or 15 feet of AP29 fairly reasonable.

Go for it H if it feels right.

I measured the stove outlet and the ID is 5-1/2” so a 5-1/2” liner to the clay liner shouldn’t be a major issue.

Keep us posted H!

I finally got around to installing the stainless steel liner and stove pipe I picked up. The liner was nine feet long and was really easy to install up the chimney through the fireplace. I removed the damper plate and expertly catalogued it into the storage room corner. I also picked up an adapter off amazon.
National 6" Id Stove Adapter 304 https://www.ama ... sEbXTD9DNG

It was installed and I sealed both seams with Meeco Red Devil stove sealer. While I was hunting for a liner. I striped the stove, sanded and painted it. I then ran a fire to allow the paint to off gas outside.
When I did that I threw on an adjustable bend with riveted seams and didn’t even give the stove collar connection a second thought. Then I went went to install a short stub of pipe and finally get this stove hooked up and running when I ran into this issue.

The steel collar is a 6” OD and the ID is 5-1/2”. The crimped end doesn’t fit and stove pipe that has a thick longitudinal seam is to tight to slide over.

I picked up an adapter from the durablack series off amazon thinking this would solve my problem. M&G DuraVent M & G DURAVENT... https://www.amazo ... b_ap_share
I thought about installing in backwards over the flue collar. This installs the crimps toward the chimney. Any thoughts? Now I am double guessing myself and thinking I should have gotten the double sleeve and snipped and bent the inner sleeve with a 5-5/8” measurement to fit inside the 5-1/2” collar ID. The outer sleeve would have slid over the collar OD encapsulating the stove collar.

DuraVent, DuraBlack 6DBK-ADDB Double-Skirted Stov ... BEYCX7R

Hammering the smoke pipe seam flat at the end may have allowed standard pipe to fit the stove outlet. Crimped end up.

Ain't it GRANDE when a plan comes together H!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hammered flat and over the collar OD?

Nope--just to keep the pipe from poppin apart while your squeezing/ getting the type diameter ya need.

So if I use the adapter I have I believe I should be ok. I know the manufacturers intent was to have the crimped end installing inside the stove collar for wood, but this is for coal so crimpes toward the chimney.

My next question, how far apart does the manual damper and the biometric damper required to be separated? 18” like a stack switch?

18 inches will work just fine. Crimped end down is old school & has worked for centuries!! Most of us come from a wood burning history where it was imperative (kool word) to have crimped down due to creosote run out. Coal= no creosote!!! BUT, ya already know all that!!

Holdencoal wrote: ↑

Sun. Feb. 16, 2020 9:48 am

So if I use the adapter I have I believe I should be ok. I know the manufacturers intent was to have the crimped end installing inside the stove collar for wood, but this is for coal so crimpes toward the chimney.

My next question, how far apart does the manual damper and the biometric damper required to be separated? 18” like a stack switch?

just make sure the MPD is below the Barometeric Damper, generally considered safer that way.

Well, now that life has slowed down and winter basketball is finished, I found some time to finish the stove install.

The block off plate is installed. The only thing left to is the trim piece around the pipe and to seal the edges. I revised my setup to a two tee setup as the crimped end of a 90 wasn’t going to fit into the stainless adapter without major modifications. I also learned the hard way, from my wallet, the durblack double skirted adapter was not the right fit thing to use as it was a very tight fit and required to be modified. I did find that the bell end of a tee fit perfect. Ugh I did have to drill out the manual damper hole in the flue to accept the new style. The original style was a straight rod, bolt on, damper plate. This was not included with the stove. I did have to cut the spring down to allow it to fit. A 5” damper was required because the ID was 5-1/2”
During the summer I will fabricate my own extended shaft to make it easier to operate. A glove is required right now. Finally just shim up the front to back of the stove and it should be ready for the fields damper.

So got the stove up and running. I tried burning wood to start the fire. The stove got to 400 and then added coal with the ash door wide open. I lost the fire. Second try I used matchlite and the same thing happened I lost the fire. What I found was I wasn’t starting out big. “Go big or go home”...... the third time I loaded the matchlite up, covered the damper in tin foil,
We opened the ash door and let it go. I have the ash door closed, the knobs open two turns and the MPD half closed.

Thank you Fred for your help.

looks like you are still a long way from having it filled up. add more coal till it's even with the top of the front bricks and let her roll.

good job so far. 2 attempts with a new unit then success is not bad at all.