Peninsular Baseburner

 
inline
Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue. Aug. 12, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Chautauqua Co., NY

Post by inline » Thu. Nov. 14, 2019 6:49 pm

Went to look at a Peninsular baseburner tonight. Stove is complete and even has all the original accessories. Doors all close tight and pass the dollar bill test.
The only issue is the corner of the base is cracked. Doesn’t look like a heat crack. Looks almost like it was dropped in storage. See pics. Is this crack repairable? The pieces that are cracked off are also there.

Attachments



 
D.lapan
Member
Posts: 771
Joined: Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:40 pm
Location: plainfield NH
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: newmac wood,coal,oil como
Baseburners & Antiques: 20th century laurel, glenwood hickory,crawford fairy
Coal Size/Type: nut, stove
Contact:

Post by D.lapan » Thu. Nov. 14, 2019 6:55 pm

It can certainly be welded as long as you have all the bits, that whole pieces needs to come off the stove to do it right.
Dana

 
inline
Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue. Aug. 12, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Chautauqua Co., NY

Post by inline » Thu. Nov. 14, 2019 7:01 pm

Thanks. Looks like it’s held on by just the two screws/bolts. The pot is perfect. Huge too. Model is Monarch 72 K.

Attachments

95B86932-5AAA-4639-8984-06A678FAC51C.jpeg
.JPEG | 1.2MB | 95B86932-5AAA-4639-8984-06A678FAC51C.jpeg

 
User avatar
mntbugy
Member
Posts: 2046
Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2016 2:36 pm
Location: clearfield,pa
Hand Fed Coal Stove: D S 1500, Warm Moring 400
Baseburners & Antiques: Art Garland 145,GW114 ,Clarion 115, Vestal 20 Globe,New Royal22 Globe, Red Cross Oak 56,Acme Ventiduct 38,Radiant Airblast 626,Home Airblast 62,Moores #7,Moores 3way
Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
Other Heating: Propain

Post by mntbugy » Thu. Nov. 14, 2019 8:10 pm

Zoom gets blurry. It that a crack upper left corner we're magazine box bolts to top of main frame??
Another on bustle bolt, very back, lower bolt??

I can see the corner blowout, hope the base pan under that, doesn't match the above one!!!

Is there any more trim parts not in pics??????

 
inline
Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue. Aug. 12, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Chautauqua Co., NY

Post by inline » Thu. Nov. 14, 2019 8:24 pm

I didn’t see any other cracks. Couldn’t see the bottom of pan. I brightened up the one body photo. The hood is there, as well as the crown and finial.

Attachments

C0A8E38F-AF48-4B78-B8BF-232582C009EE.jpeg
.JPEG | 817KB | C0A8E38F-AF48-4B78-B8BF-232582C009EE.jpeg
68E6701B-3BE8-4C8E-9AD3-68CFED886C1E.jpeg
.JPEG | 1.1MB | 68E6701B-3BE8-4C8E-9AD3-68CFED886C1E.jpeg

 
inline
Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue. Aug. 12, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Chautauqua Co., NY

Post by inline » Mon. Nov. 18, 2019 10:14 am

So I’m picking this stove up this week. Any suggestions on how to move it? It’s going on a small trailer. Should I lay it down or leave it upright?

 
User avatar
Sunny Boy
Member
Posts: 25724
Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
Location: Central NY
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Nov. 18, 2019 10:42 am

When lightly loaded, trailers tend to bounce quite a bit.

Remove every part you can, so they don't come loose in transit. Wrap, or box them up so that can't get banged around. Store the boxes so they don't move, either.

Only lay the stove body down if you have a lot of padding to lay it on. Otherwise standing it up on it's flat base, not the leg base, and have it well restrained, is easier on it.

If it's a flat trailer, strap, or tie it down good, in ALL four directions, not just two or three. If the trailer has a sturdy front wall stand it up padded against that wall, and strap/tie it well. No cargo ever shifted from having too many restraints. ;)

Paul


 
inline
Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue. Aug. 12, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Chautauqua Co., NY

Post by inline » Mon. Nov. 18, 2019 1:40 pm

Hmmm. That has me nervous now. Haha. Maybe I’ll just fold the seats down in my 4Runner and try to get it in lying down.

 
scalabro
Member
Posts: 4197
Joined: Wed. Oct. 03, 2012 9:53 am
Location: Western Massachusetts
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14, Abendroth Bros "Record 40"
Coal Size/Type: Stove / Anthracite.
Other Heating: Oil fired, forced hot air.

Post by scalabro » Mon. Nov. 18, 2019 2:16 pm

There will most likely be cracks revealed after sandblasting anyway, so find a good cast iron welder like Skip at “Wilson’s Woodstoves”

 
User avatar
tcalo
Member
Posts: 2072
Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
Location: Long Island, New York
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite

Post by tcalo » Mon. Nov. 18, 2019 3:06 pm

scalabro wrote:
Mon. Nov. 18, 2019 2:16 pm
There will most likely be cracks revealed after sandblasting anyway, so find a good cast iron welder like Skip at “Wilson’s Woodstoves”
Always is!!!

 
inline
Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue. Aug. 12, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Chautauqua Co., NY

Post by inline » Mon. Nov. 18, 2019 6:15 pm

Does it need to be blasted? It has been inside it's entire life. No rust except for a tiny bit on the bottom.

 
User avatar
mntbugy
Member
Posts: 2046
Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2016 2:36 pm
Location: clearfield,pa
Hand Fed Coal Stove: D S 1500, Warm Moring 400
Baseburners & Antiques: Art Garland 145,GW114 ,Clarion 115, Vestal 20 Globe,New Royal22 Globe, Red Cross Oak 56,Acme Ventiduct 38,Radiant Airblast 626,Home Airblast 62,Moores #7,Moores 3way
Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
Other Heating: Propain

Post by mntbugy » Mon. Nov. 18, 2019 8:23 pm

Some cracks are a good bargining chip on price, other cracks get costly if you have someone else do the repair.

If you don't want to blast your heater.
Get a bunch of different size wire wheels and wire brushes, for the hard to reach areas.

Evapo- rust or WD-40 rust away works good but expensive.

Lye bath works good and a vinegar soak for rust also works good.

 
inline
Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue. Aug. 12, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Chautauqua Co., NY

Post by inline » Wed. Nov. 20, 2019 4:41 pm

Well I now own a Monarch Peninsular baseburner. It’s sitting in my truck to go get welded tomorrow. This thing weighs a ton. Even with the pot (18” btw) removed it’s probably close to 225lbs. Pic of base pan attached. It has less rust than the bottom of my Keystoker HFH.
Can someone explain how the ducts work on the baseburners? Does that pan need to be sealed with cement when the welding is done?

Attachments

B842CFB8-393E-44E5-9666-47C510FE91C1.jpeg
.JPEG | 1.2MB | B842CFB8-393E-44E5-9666-47C510FE91C1.jpeg

 
inline
Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue. Aug. 12, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Chautauqua Co., NY

Post by inline » Mon. Nov. 25, 2019 6:18 pm

Time for fun with mica.

Attachments

64C339C9-F350-4043-BA39-FB602131E71D.jpeg
.JPEG | 107KB | 64C339C9-F350-4043-BA39-FB602131E71D.jpeg

 
User avatar
Sunny Boy
Member
Posts: 25724
Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
Location: Central NY
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Tue. Nov. 26, 2019 7:30 am

Congrats on getting it, IL.

The grates look like it hasn't had a hard life. And a pot that that big, it's going to be a heat monster !!!

Looking forward to see it all fixed up and running. :yes:

Paul


Post Reply

Return to “Antiques, Baseburners, Kitchen Stoves, Restorations & Modern Reproductions”