awesome, nows the time to see how far you can idle it down while you have the advantage of cold outside air for stable draft.
what the temp. of the furthest room from the stove ? are you primarily heating the 1st floor and anything that gets up stairs is frosting ?
we sleep up stairs in a 3 BR single bath four square 2 story and keep our door closed around the clock for nice cool sleeping.
Glenwood #6 baseheater
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KingCoal
- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
I have everything shut down as far as I can go, lol. Manual damper shut,bottom 2 air drafts shut, air over the fire shut, and she still getting to 300*. Upstairs doors are closed, but I can open them if needed(dont know how much difference that would make ...they are small). Living room is probable the furthest, but the stove is pretty much in the center of the house. The living room has been running 4-5 degrees lower than the kitchen. I keep my bedroom door closed because I like it cold when sleeping, lol. I'm very happy so far! I can't wait for ty he real cold to get here to see how she handles it
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.KingCoal wrote: ↑Wed. Nov. 13, 2019 7:07 pmawesome, nows the time to see how far you can idle it down while you have the advantage of cold outside air for stable draft.
what the temp. of the furthest room from the stove ? are you primarily heating the 1st floor and anything that gets up stairs is frosting ?
we sleep up stairs in a 3 BR single bath four square 2 story and keep our door closed around the clock for nice cool sleeping.
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Keepaeyeonit
- Member
- Posts: 1682
- Joined: Wed. Mar. 24, 2010 7:18 pm
- Location: Northeast Ohio.( Grand river wine country )
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #8
- Coal Size/Type: Nut & stove
- Other Heating: 49 year old oil furnace, and finally a new heat pump
Nice stove Jborden, you may want to think about making a seal out of high temp silicone for the ash door.
I just redid mine this fall it helps to tame down the stove, i grease the edge of the door and put the silicone around the base. I got cute this time with the sealer and did the 2 lids and the upper loading door but now i have more draft so I'm running both my MPDs in the 3/4 closed position and still pulling .04-.05” WC where i was running both about 1/2 last year .03-.04” WC.
I just redid mine this fall it helps to tame down the stove, i grease the edge of the door and put the silicone around the base. I got cute this time with the sealer and did the 2 lids and the upper loading door but now i have more draft so I'm running both my MPDs in the 3/4 closed position and still pulling .04-.05” WC where i was running both about 1/2 last year .03-.04” WC.
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tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2073
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
I’ve been using this trick for years with fantastic results...thanks to a forum member. I use lip balm on the base side and high temp silicone on the door side. I seal up my ash door and clinker door. I take the door edge down to bare metal before applying the silicone. Once applied I close everything up for 24 hours. Open it up and trim the excess. I’ve had record low temps on my stove using this trick!Keepaeyeonit wrote: ↑Wed. Nov. 13, 2019 8:35 pmNice stove Jborden, you may want to think about making a seal out of high temp silicone for the ash door.
I just redid mine this fall it helps to tame down the stove, i grease the edge of the door and put the silicone around the base.
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tsb
- Member
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- Joined: Wed. Jul. 30, 2008 8:38 pm
- Location: Douglassville, Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Binford 2000
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Pioneer top vent
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Saey Hanover II
- Baseburners & Antiques: Grander Golden Oak , Glenwood # 6
- Coal Size/Type: All of them
Hawaiian shirts and shorts are on sale at Target.
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Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25756
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Don't just assume it's the doors. The #6 has a lot of seams. Some are below the firebed level could be leaking and that would cause the high temps with the primary damper closed.
Get the stove going well and use some smoldering string passed closely over ALL the seams, including the base chamber up under the leg base and see where it's getting sucked into leaks. Then seal up those seams with some Hercules furnace cement from Lowes or Home Depot. It sticks better than other brands of furnace cement.
Cast iron stove doors and panels are prone to warping and leaking with age. Cast iron changes shape over the years as the heat cycling relieves stresses in the castings from when they originally cooled down in the molds. My ash drawer door had quite a few gaps.
I've been the hi temp and refractory route for trying to seal the doors better with my other stoves. Can't use the high temp near the fire bed and the refractory soon flaked off from the clunking and extreme temp swings the dampers and doors can get.
So I decided with my #6 I would get it like Glenwood intended it. Using a feeler gauge I marked all the tight spots with chalk and filed them down until the doors fit tightly all around.
The loading door hinge pintles (pins) and gudgeons (holes) were worn. I made bushings out of steel brake tubing and pressed them into the gudgeon (hole) side of the hinges. Now the doors all close as they should. And, no sealers to wonder when they will come off, like my last stove, or burn up on a loading door. My #6 will now idle down to in the 200F range on the barrel just above the gas ring,... I can leave my hand on the pipe two feet up from the elbow,... and that's with the two primary dampers still open about 1/8 inch at the wide ends of the slots.
And if the dampers fit loosely those can be another leak. The springs that tension them to fit tightly get relaxed by years of wear and heat cycling. With Glenwoods, you can sometimes cut a slot in a washer, pull back on the spring cover and slip the washer in under the spring cover, spring, and around the center pin, to increase the spring tension more.
Sealing all the seams, especially below the firebed level, and fitting the doors properly, and you'll have a base heater that will idle way down, so that, as William used to say, "It will be sipping coal".
There are other tricks to get it to idle lower. Mixing in smaller sized coal with the nut coal will increase the resistance of air flow through the firebed, thus slowing the fire. And it has the added benefit of more fuel density in the firebed to help increase the length of burn times.
If you have an original Glenwood cast iron elbow with the check damper, experiment with some amount of opening it. It's meant to be used to reduce the draft strength by bleeding room air into the stove pipe to lower the exhaust temperature.
Using more of the loading door damper opening for over fire air, and less primary air, will also reduce the draft strength.
Combinations of any of those will really idle it down to scary-low levels.
But, remember that you always have to give the chimney system some heat, or else the warm house may become the chimney and you'll get a draft reversal.
You've got one of the best base heaters, but it's over 100 years old and they always need a bit of TLC after so many years of use. Seal it up the way Glenwood intended it to be, and then experiment with damper settings and coal size, and you'll be amazed what it can do !!!!
Paul
Get the stove going well and use some smoldering string passed closely over ALL the seams, including the base chamber up under the leg base and see where it's getting sucked into leaks. Then seal up those seams with some Hercules furnace cement from Lowes or Home Depot. It sticks better than other brands of furnace cement.
Cast iron stove doors and panels are prone to warping and leaking with age. Cast iron changes shape over the years as the heat cycling relieves stresses in the castings from when they originally cooled down in the molds. My ash drawer door had quite a few gaps.
I've been the hi temp and refractory route for trying to seal the doors better with my other stoves. Can't use the high temp near the fire bed and the refractory soon flaked off from the clunking and extreme temp swings the dampers and doors can get.
So I decided with my #6 I would get it like Glenwood intended it. Using a feeler gauge I marked all the tight spots with chalk and filed them down until the doors fit tightly all around.
The loading door hinge pintles (pins) and gudgeons (holes) were worn. I made bushings out of steel brake tubing and pressed them into the gudgeon (hole) side of the hinges. Now the doors all close as they should. And, no sealers to wonder when they will come off, like my last stove, or burn up on a loading door. My #6 will now idle down to in the 200F range on the barrel just above the gas ring,... I can leave my hand on the pipe two feet up from the elbow,... and that's with the two primary dampers still open about 1/8 inch at the wide ends of the slots.
And if the dampers fit loosely those can be another leak. The springs that tension them to fit tightly get relaxed by years of wear and heat cycling. With Glenwoods, you can sometimes cut a slot in a washer, pull back on the spring cover and slip the washer in under the spring cover, spring, and around the center pin, to increase the spring tension more.
Sealing all the seams, especially below the firebed level, and fitting the doors properly, and you'll have a base heater that will idle way down, so that, as William used to say, "It will be sipping coal".
There are other tricks to get it to idle lower. Mixing in smaller sized coal with the nut coal will increase the resistance of air flow through the firebed, thus slowing the fire. And it has the added benefit of more fuel density in the firebed to help increase the length of burn times.
If you have an original Glenwood cast iron elbow with the check damper, experiment with some amount of opening it. It's meant to be used to reduce the draft strength by bleeding room air into the stove pipe to lower the exhaust temperature.
Using more of the loading door damper opening for over fire air, and less primary air, will also reduce the draft strength.
Combinations of any of those will really idle it down to scary-low levels.
But, remember that you always have to give the chimney system some heat, or else the warm house may become the chimney and you'll get a draft reversal.
You've got one of the best base heaters, but it's over 100 years old and they always need a bit of TLC after so many years of use. Seal it up the way Glenwood intended it to be, and then experiment with damper settings and coal size, and you'll be amazed what it can do !!!!
Paul
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Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25756
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Nice !
If it gets too hot, you can always open some windows,..... and make the neighbors jealous.
Paul
If it gets too hot, you can always open some windows,..... and make the neighbors jealous.
Paul
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KingCoal
- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
seems jealousy is not the idea MY neighbors consider when they see our windows open.
they call the police to have them see if we have abandoned the property or are dead, never mind the vehicles come and go at regular intervals and I have the dog out for walks too.
such is life,
steve
they call the police to have them see if we have abandoned the property or are dead, never mind the vehicles come and go at regular intervals and I have the dog out for walks too.
such is life,
steve
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tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2073
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
Windy as all hell here last night. I had the stove at it’s usual settings. Woke up to an 80* house. Should’ve cracked the internal check!! This is where baro’s come in handy.
