Q3 - On my "Andes combination range, I need to reline the firebox - the side plates are ceramic and all cracked/broken, so thought I would cast some new ones with the old pieced together parts. I am sure this sounds easier than it is... Based on the threads I read in this forum, it appears that super hybond plus is the ticket. I could make a form from the old pieces then "cast" a new set. Is this the best way? Where do I get a big block of hybond? I am in central NY area. Is there a local expert that I could work (aka - hire) with on this project?
Also, The end plates are cast-iron. The back one is pretty deformed (but usable), the front one is burned thru/shot. I am not a foundry, so was wondering can I buy replacements for these? Or can I cast one out of refractory cement like the side bricks above? If the hybond is sort of like stiff clay, if I cut a 1/2" thick sheet, it seems that it might hold it's shape while it hardened in place, maybe with some packed newspaper on the back side, etc to support it? Will it hold together? I think I want a 4 piece construction, versus casting the entire liner in one piece via the "hammer method" that I have read about. Thoughts?
Coal Fire box
- Sunny Boy
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About ten years ago, I bought a 50 lb box of "ramset" refractory material at a plumbing, heating, and boiler supply parts house in Utica. I don't remember the name, but you can do a websearch for such a . Ramset is the general name for the types of refractory material by hammering the sticky clay-like material into fireboxes.
It's like working with modeling clay. You don't need a mold, you use a rolling pin to roll it to about 3/4 inch thick sheet, cut it with a knife, and press it into position. Let dry 24 hours, then finish drying and cure with a few small wood fires.
If your going to make a mold using the old bricks, used Rutland's castable refractory, available on line from a number of places, including Rutland's website.
If the bricks are fairly smooth. make them smoother and use plaster of Paris for the mold in a box or pan. When it dry's, grease it and pour in the castable refractory. Let sit over night in the mold. Then let the new bricks dry several days in a warm place to drive out most of the water.
If you use the search function on here for "firebricks" and "liner" you'll find many have done and explained what your looking to do.
Paul
It's like working with modeling clay. You don't need a mold, you use a rolling pin to roll it to about 3/4 inch thick sheet, cut it with a knife, and press it into position. Let dry 24 hours, then finish drying and cure with a few small wood fires.
If your going to make a mold using the old bricks, used Rutland's castable refractory, available on line from a number of places, including Rutland's website.
If the bricks are fairly smooth. make them smoother and use plaster of Paris for the mold in a box or pan. When it dry's, grease it and pour in the castable refractory. Let sit over night in the mold. Then let the new bricks dry several days in a warm place to drive out most of the water.
If you use the search function on here for "firebricks" and "liner" you'll find many have done and explained what your looking to do.
Paul
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Infab refractory (207) 783-2075
$38 a 50# box plus shipping to me is was $30
Ask for noxram and tell them what your doing with it
$38 a 50# box plus shipping to me is was $30
Ask for noxram and tell them what your doing with it
- copper
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It is pretty. So, Wilson returned my call today and gave me MUCH to think about. He's a wealth of knowledge. I think I'm convinced to go the hammer clay route. Timing is everything, and mine was off as he recently gave away a bunch of Andes bricks cause he has never been asked about them. Until me of course. C'est la vie. He was gonna dig around to see what other Andes knick knacks he might have in the shop. Thanks Wilson! (PS, it would be amazing if you had some adjustable orifices. I'll attach a sketch..)