Saving history...one antique stove at a time

Here's some pix of the backpipe support for one of my 118.

I thought the casting was wider and the outer screws held it on, but it's those two inner screws that hold that support casting onto that rear cover plate.

I'd loan it to you as pattern for recast, but the 118 is bigger and takes a 6 inch backpipe. The 116 uses a 5 inch back pipe.

I know Wilson has the 116 back pipe parts because when I was there he showed me how he reinforced the pattern for the pipe baffles he has cast so I could do the same for my 118s. By now, he may also have the 116 size base castings.

FYI, the Modern Oaks that have a back pipe also have a different rear skirt that has a half-oval cutout to clear the pipe. It's the right-hand most one of the four large skirts of the fourth picture. You can just leave that skirt section off.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote: ↑

Mon. Feb. 04, 2019 9:22 pm

I thought the casting was wider and the outer screws held it on, but it's those two inner screws that hold that support casting onto that rear cover plate.

Ahhh, so I was right. Damn good guess on my part...haha

I took a stab at polishing the skirt with mothers metal polish. It shines up real nice but some of the rust spots took it’s toll!

Take it to a professional with a proper wheel. I bet it comes back and if it’s not perfect it will have character!

To be honest Scott...that’s why I haven’t nickeled the G109 parts. I like the look, it has character!

Now that you have it cleaned up, a good coating of auto paste wax will help protect what's left of the finish, prevent rusting further, and not make an oily surface that ash and coal dust will stick too.

Paul

So how would one go about removing and reinstalling the door handle for nickeling? I can get it off no problem...haha...it’s getting it back on that’s the issue. It seems they were peened flat when installed from the factory. Not to steal secrets, but how do the resto shops do it?

tcalo wrote: ↑

Thu. Feb. 07, 2019 7:31 pm

So how would one go about removing and reinstalling the door handle for nickeling? I can get it off no problem...haha...it’s getting it back on that’s the issue. It seems they were peened flat when installed from the factory. Not to steal secrets, but how do the resto shops do it?

Grind it off and a little weld will hold it back on, even a reg mig weld has held the one in my camp for 3 seasons now no issues
Dana

Yup, a couple of tack welds on the end of the handle shank to the retaining plate.

Paul

Ok...making some progress but could use some advice!

I took a trip up to Skips place over the weekend and grabbed some parts from him. The G116 fire pot he had has seen better days. We decided to repair the fire pot I had...luckily I brought it with me. Not sure how well it'll hold up? Skips advice was run the stove and see what happens...haha. We did hear some funky cracking sounds as he was welding it up!!! It doesn't look too bad, just needs some cleaning up. So...do I go through the work of a top to bottom resto on this stove using the old pot and hope for the best...or should I try to either locate a good pot or get this one recast? After crunching the numbers a recast would run about $250 minus shipping, not to mention the shrinkage may affect the fit. These pots are HEAVY so lord knows what shipping would cost, or how I would even pack it up to get it to them?

Also, Skip has the parts for the rear indirect pipes but said they get expensive. Since this is just a spare stove I'm not sure how deep (money wise) I want to get into this thing. He said the direct and indirect set ups may require different rear outlet heights. Can anyone verify this? I assume it doesn't really matter where the rear flange on the stove or indirect pipe are located, just as long as they line up with each other...right? I can measure the rear flange height on my 116, if someone can provide measurements of the rear flange height from an indirect 116 that would be very helpful. If they are in fact the same then I can always add the indirect pipe at a later date.

Everything should go out for blasting this week. Hopefully it'll all be painted and polished by next weekend. I left the rear grate cover with Skip for repairs. So once I get that back then I can start assembly. The grate frame is already finished and assembled. Not sure how to tackle the nickel parts. Again...we're talking big money! I have a local shop, I'll run the parts to them this week and see what they say. I'm jammed up on relining the pot. I've searched through dozens of topics and can't seem to nail down a source for refractory. I believe the hammered in refractory would be best since I'm not making bricks but rather lining the whole pot. I was going to reach out to Blackman Plumbing this week, since they deal with boilers and such. If they don't have refractory then maybe they can point me in the right direction.

Tomahawk should do a recast for about 3 dollars a pound of firepot weight, plus a dollar a pound to ship it out , then double that for the trip home. A new recast and pattern.

I'd slap some Hercules cement in the fire pot cracks, run it as is for this season,...... but keep the Hercules and a putty knife handy, just in case.

The location of the barrel' s exit to the backpipe's inlet stays the same height up on the barrel no matter id there is a back pipe, or how you hook a backpipe up to the stove pipe.

However, the backpipe's exit to the stove pipe can have either a horizontal exit collar, or a straight up top exit. If your making a new back pipe then you get to choose. You can put the back pipe's exit collar hole at whatever height works for you - the higher the better to gain heat extraction surface area in the pipe. But, if say, the pipe must fit under a fireplace lintel, you can make the back pipe exit hole lower and it'll still draw fine.

Paul

The fire pot on my 114 was 150 tomahawk. 50 to ship out and 100 on the way back.

Line your firepot with noxram, then cut expansion joints like a cement sidewalk has. Cracks will stay in the expansion joint slice.

mntbugy wrote: ↑

Sun. Feb. 24, 2019 4:34 pm

Line your firepot with noxram, then cut expansion joints like a cement sidewalk has. Cracks will stay in the expansion joint slice.

Do you have a source?

Tom, page down a little to fire pot lining header. Good info there.