116 Glenwood

 
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Post by UpDraft » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 1:35 am

Need to know if the fire box needs a liner.
I have the wood grate in now.
Need coal grates asap. Going to buy coal tomorrow.
Can I run the wood grate burning coal.

Is there any danger in this or damage to the stove. Front went red on me earlier...

Thank you


 
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Post by D.lapan » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 8:37 am

With coal you should make a castable liner, as it is not nessasary it will prolong the life
Of your fire pot.
You say you have a wood grate, but all the ones I have seen lay on top of the triangular prismatic grates, This is a wood grate for the glenwood

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Post by UpDraft » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 9:55 am

Thank you. I might just hand lay some refractory cement in there.
That's definitely what I have.

It is starting show wear.🤔

Have rice coal right now, doing ok.
Getting nut this pm.

Def need to find shaker grates.

This stove is going to be awesome.

I also kind of figured out why I had an over fire yesterday when first running the stove the bottom door must be lifted ever-so-slightly to get over the factory check mark no gasket should ever be needed.

If the factory didn't make it, Grandpa said you didn't need it.
Second day fire.
Good morning.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 10:18 am

Welcome, UD.

The Glenwood Modern Oak 116 is a great stove and very popular. We have quite a few members using one.

Yes, the firepot should be lined with refractory cement when using coal. It not only helps protect and extend the life of the firepot, it also helps the coal burn more completely by keeping more heat within the firebed. Coal needs almost double the temperature to ignite that wood does. The liner helps the firebed stay at those higher combustion temps so that the coal burns more efficiently.

If you do a search in this section of the site, you'll find threads discussing how to line firepots. I know there has been at least one thread done on lining a 116.

Sad to say, while trying to use coal your going to have frustrating problems until you get the right grates for that stove. Just the opposite of wood, coal has to burn from the bottom on up. Therefore it needs it's primary air coming in under the grates to feed up through the firebed.

The wood plate will not work well with coal. It only has holes to feed half the firebed. Plus, you'll have a lot of trouble properly clearing ash - especially with larger sizes of coal that stove is best suited for, such as nut (chestnut), or stove coal.

Coal also has a higher volume of ash than wood and a good bit of it tends to stick together close to the original sizes of the coal chunks. The triangular teeth of the grate bars, that are meant for that stove, are designed to break up those ash chunks and drop them into the ash pan. I guarantee that once the firebed burns long enough to start producing ash, either of those sizes of coal will start to plug up the holes in that wood plate - even as you try to keep them clear. Then, the fire will die out rather soon after, leaving you trying to sort unburned coal from ash.

Member Wilson - screen name, "wilsonswoodstoves" restores antique stoves. He has the grates, cogs (gears) and shaker handle for the GW 116. Either pm him though this site or call him.

Wilson Mull 508-763-8941


Paul

 
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Post by UpDraft » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 10:36 am

Thank you.
Will call.
Burning rice now seems ok, only because I have lots time in with coal.
What I'm doing now is half burn.
Fill born front, pull forward, load rear.
For now warmer than wet wood...lol
Love my find.
Had a crane cooker as a kid.

 
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Post by D.lapan » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 10:58 am

Do you have any pictures?
What is your wood grate sitting on?
Dana

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 12:00 pm

D.lapan wrote:
Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 10:58 am
Do you have any pictures?
What is your wood grate sitting on?
Dana
Dana,
In the bottom of the firepots of the GW Modern Oaks, flush with the tops of the grate bars, and every 90 degrees, there are four pointed "ears" that stick out to fill in the corner gaps left by the ends of the rows of teeth of the two outer grate bars. Without the grate bars in the stove the wood plate sits on those four ears.

One of my 118s was only used for wood. It didn't have the grate bars and frame, but it had a homemade steel wood plate sitting on those ears.

Paul


 
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Post by D.lapan » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 12:03 pm

I see, I was under the impression the grate bars helped support the wood plate

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 12:14 pm

D.lapan wrote:
Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 12:03 pm
I see, I was under the impression the grate bars helped support the wood plate
They do in that they are on the same plain with those four ears, but otherwise the grates are not needed for a wood plate that is the correct outside diameter to fit the bottom of the firepot. Even with a brick lining those ears stick out enough to support the plate.

The GW base heaters, which were also made to burn wood, had those ears, too. Here's a pic of my #6 with the original one inch thick firebrick lining. You can see the four ears sticking out at the 1, 5, 7 and 11 o'clock positions. Then at 3 and 9 o'clock, there are fixed rows of teeth that fill in the gaps outboard of the outer grate bars, that also help support it.

As you can see in the second pic of one of my 118s, that #6 view is just about identical to what it looks like looking down into a GW Modern Oak firepot. And like with the magazines, the 116 wood plate may fit a GW #6 base heater ???? Woodman's Parts Plus sells recasts of the GW wood plates. I may get one, just in case I ever want to burn wood in the #6.

Paul

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Post by D.lapan » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 12:31 pm

Yup looks just like mine, but i haven’t used the wood grate yet
Dana

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 12:43 pm

D.lapan wrote:
Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 12:31 pm
Yup looks just like mine, but i haven’t used the wood grate yet
Dana
Just for general knowledge, when you get a chance, would you please post the outer diameter of that wood plate ? Knowing that recasts are available, it might help some of us if we can confirm if it is usable in both the 116 and the #6,.... like we did with the coal magazines.

Paul

 
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Post by UpDraft » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 1:17 pm

Thank you so much for all the advice.
Did call and found out price, not bad just over the 300 mark for a setup all told.
But it's in mass, $2.00 a lb to ship...
I am going to have to take a ride someday.
For now just a wood plate, burn baby, burn.

Like anything out there, gotta learn its curve, then swing.

 
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Post by D.lapan » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 2:07 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 12:43 pm
Just for general knowledge, when you get a chance, would you please post the outer diameter of that wood plate ? Knowing that recasts are available, it might help some of us if we can confirm if it is usable in both the 116 and the #6,.... like we did with the coal magazines.

Paul
13 3/4” wide and has glen 118 8 cast into it. I believe this one to be orig to the stove
Dana

 
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 2:27 pm

Ok, since that says Modern Oak 118 and it fits your #8 base heater, I think it safe to assume that the wood plate that Woodman's Parts Plus has for a 116 will also fit a #6 base heater. That is, if the firepot liner hasn't too much clinker scale buildup at the bottom edge.

https://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/product.aspx?p_id=740002

Paul

 
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Post by D.lapan » Sat. Jan. 19, 2019 2:50 pm

I can tell you that it was a tight fit getting it out, I think my 8 had only ever burned wood judging by the 3 5 gallon buckets of ash I cleaned out, so I had no clinker scale but it still just barley fit out of the factory liner, the slightest bit of scale and it would have been a chore to get out
Dana


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