Estate 249 Caboose Stove
Hey guys, I just brought home an Estate 249 Caboose Stove. My intentions are to restore it and put it on my back porch to occasionally cook with. Maybe Sunday morning bacon and eggs type thing.
Anyhow I need some guidance. I need a grate for it. I know some people have had parts cast for different stoves, but was wondering if there was any replacement parts readily available for this stove.
I intend on completely dismantling this stove and using a wire wheel to clean it up. Any suggestions on what type of finish I should use once cleaned up?
Thanks, T.J.
Anyhow I need some guidance. I need a grate for it. I know some people have had parts cast for different stoves, but was wondering if there was any replacement parts readily available for this stove.
I intend on completely dismantling this stove and using a wire wheel to clean it up. Any suggestions on what type of finish I should use once cleaned up?
Thanks, T.J.
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- Sunny Boy
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Welcome, TJB (and PFrank).
If it's going to be outside, don't use stove polish. It won't hold up against that much dampness. It'll need a good quality high-temp stove paint to seal the surface as best as can be.
Thurmalox is the stove paint that ssome pro restoration shops use. I use it on hot exhaust systems because it holds up better than the autoparts store exhaust paints, or hardware store BBQ paints.
Put on two thin coats to make sure it has complete coverage.
http://www.stovepaint.com/
If you really want to weather-proof it, put a coat of silver on first, then black over that. The aluminum powder in the silver is much better at preventing the cast iron from corroding. Same reason they attach blocks of zinc to bronze propellers and shafts of boats to protect then from electrolysis corrosion. The softer metal becomes the "sacrificial" metal, rather than the cast iron.
Paul
If it's going to be outside, don't use stove polish. It won't hold up against that much dampness. It'll need a good quality high-temp stove paint to seal the surface as best as can be.
Thurmalox is the stove paint that ssome pro restoration shops use. I use it on hot exhaust systems because it holds up better than the autoparts store exhaust paints, or hardware store BBQ paints.
Put on two thin coats to make sure it has complete coverage.
http://www.stovepaint.com/
If you really want to weather-proof it, put a coat of silver on first, then black over that. The aluminum powder in the silver is much better at preventing the cast iron from corroding. Same reason they attach blocks of zinc to bronze propellers and shafts of boats to protect then from electrolysis corrosion. The softer metal becomes the "sacrificial" metal, rather than the cast iron.
Paul
- warminmn
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- Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt
SB or others, is the silver paint coating as good as the spray zinc primer I use on a lot of outdoor items under a normal paint coat? (Not stove stuff). I do see it has zinc dust but still wondering.Sunny Boy wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 17, 2019 8:19 amWelcome, TJB (and PFrank).
If it's going to be outside, don't use stove polish. It won't hold up against that much dampness. It'll need a good quality high-temp stove paint to seal the surface as best as can be.
Thurmalox is the stove paint that ssome pro restoration shops use. I use it on hot exhaust systems because it holds up better than the autoparts store exhaust paints, or hardware store BBQ paints.
Put on two thin coats to make sure it has complete coverage.
http://www.stovepaint.com/
If you really want to weather-proof it, put a coat of silver on first, then black over that. The aluminum powder in the silver is much better at preventing the cast iron from corroding. Same reason they attach blocks of zinc to bronze propellers and shafts of boats to protect then from electrolysis corrosion. The softer metal becomes the "sacrificial" metal, rather than the cast iron.
Paul
I learned how good that zinc coat primer was when we powder coated with paint over it on thousands of salt water boat motor parts so am just curious.
Last edited by warminmn on Thu. Jan. 17, 2019 9:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Sunny Boy
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- Posts: 25567
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
While zinc is a good, and very common, sacrificial primer, I doubt it will holdup to the long-term high temps as well as the silver Thurmalox.
Zinc melts at just over 700F. Aluminum is good to just over 1200F.
Plus, when heated too high, zinc oxide fumes are toxic.
Paul
Zinc melts at just over 700F. Aluminum is good to just over 1200F.
Plus, when heated too high, zinc oxide fumes are toxic.
Paul
- warminmn
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Efel Nestor Martin, Riteway 37
- Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
- Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt
I just read more and edited my post but not in time before your reply. It says it has zinc dust in their primer besides the other items.
You would be correct about using zinc on stoves, it being toxic. Outdoors though, that wouldnt matter. But if it melts at 700 it wouldnt be very good. The dust they use must mix in with the aluminum somehow and work good.
You would be correct about using zinc on stoves, it being toxic. Outdoors though, that wouldnt matter. But if it melts at 700 it wouldnt be very good. The dust they use must mix in with the aluminum somehow and work good.
- Sunny Boy
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- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
700F is more likely to happen than 1200F. Pot belly type stoves are notorious for wanting to run hot. I've dealt with a couple for many years. Once the zinc is oxidized by heat, it's useless for preventing corrosion. And 700F is below the temps where you'd see the cast iron start to glow in a dark room. It's pretty easy to get a potbelly firepot up to those temps quickly before you realize it.warminmn wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 17, 2019 9:07 amI just read more and edited my post but not in time before your reply. It says it has zinc dust in their primer besides the other items.
You would be correct about using zinc on stoves, it being toxic. Outdoors though, that wouldnt matter. But if it melts at 700 it wouldnt be very good. The dust they use must mix in with the aluminum somehow and work good.
Many, who don't do painting for a living, don't realize the importance of using the right primer, the right way. Professional painters know that it's more important than the paint. When the primer fails, even the best, most expensive paints will fail, too.
I'd much rather put my money and effort into primers and paint that are made to be used on stoves, instead of hoping a paint not meant to work on stoves, might work.
Paul
- warminmn
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Efel Nestor Martin, Riteway 37
- Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
- Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt
Yep, you got that right. Good advise there. Car priming/painting is a great example of it not being done right, owner done painting that is. A small potbelly I bought I fired up outdoors because I didnt know what paint was used on it and a good thing as it all just melted off of it. That would have been horrible smelling in a house.Sunny Boy wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 17, 2019 10:18 am700F is more likely to happen than 1200F. Pot belly type stoves are notorious for wanting to run hot. I've dealt with a couple for many years. Once the zinc is oxidized by heat, it's useless for preventing corrosion. And 700F is below the temps where you'd see the cast iron start to glow in a dark room. It's pretty easy to get a potbelly firepot up to those temps quickly before you realize it.
Many, who don't do painting for a living, don't realize the importance of using the right primer, the right way. Professional painters know that it's more important than the paint. When the primer fails, even the best, most expensive paints will fail, too.
I'd much rather put my money and effort into primers and paint that are made to be used on stoves, instead of hoping a paint not meant to work on stoves, might work.
Paul
Hey guys, Thanks for the responses. I will have to check out the thermolux paints for this. I have contacted tomahawk foundry about casting a shaker grate for it. Unfortunately they don't have a pattern for it. I will have to do some work to the grate I have to use as a suitable pattern.
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Wonder if you may be farther ahead to take the piece to a water jet cutting place and have it scanned into the computer some free hand graphics and you could have a few of those cut out of some good quality steel...
I will probably get to it sometime this spring. I'm currently in the middle of a bathroom remodel that is taking precedence. Once that's done I'll have more time to tinker in the garage.
I will have to get an estimate of what it will cost to get re-cast, which is the route I would rather go. But if it's cost prohibitive I will make something out of steel myself.
I will have to get an estimate of what it will cost to get re-cast, which is the route I would rather go. But if it's cost prohibitive I will make something out of steel myself.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25567
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Many of us with antique stoves use Tomahawk Foundry to recast parts, using the broken originals as patterns. You can email pix and measurements to Al at Tomahawk and he'll give you an estimate. I've done that a few times.
http://www.tomahawkfoundry.com/
Paul
http://www.tomahawkfoundry.com/
Paul
I have talked to tomahawk foundry (see 3 posts above yours). I had hoped they already had a pattern and I wouldn't have to make a pattern from my broken grate. I didn't send them any measurements, but will when I have time to mold in the missing section.Sunny Boy wrote: ↑Fri. Feb. 01, 2019 10:10 amMany of us with antique stoves use Tomahawk Foundry to recast parts, using the broken originals as patterns. You can email pix and measurements to Al at Tomahawk and he'll give you an estimate. I've done that a few times.
http://www.tomahawkfoundry.com/
Paul
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Some cad work and a 3-D printer make short work...
For a pattern...
For a pattern...