Door pins
- Sunny Boy
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- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Are they really lose, Tommy ?
I've never heard of replacement pins. I think you'd have to buy drill rod of the correct diameter from Granger, or McMaster-Carr, and make your own pins. That is, if you can get the old pins out without cracking the casting.
One safer option is to sleeve the hole with a bushing. I used 3/16 inch steel brake tubing for the doors of my GW #6.
The tubing is a good fit for the pins, but a tad undersized for the hole. By leaving the burred edges from cutting to length with a hacksaw, and then lightly tapping the ends of each sleeve into a very slight oval shape at the ends, the sleeves stay in the holes, but still fit the pins. Now that I know it works, I'll use some shim stock wrapped around the sleeves to get a more permanent press-fit.
If the pins are no too sloppy, you can cut strips of shim stock that are the thickness of the gaps, roll it around a small drill bit and then cut it to a length that makes it jam-fit into the holes.
Paul
I've never heard of replacement pins. I think you'd have to buy drill rod of the correct diameter from Granger, or McMaster-Carr, and make your own pins. That is, if you can get the old pins out without cracking the casting.
One safer option is to sleeve the hole with a bushing. I used 3/16 inch steel brake tubing for the doors of my GW #6.
The tubing is a good fit for the pins, but a tad undersized for the hole. By leaving the burred edges from cutting to length with a hacksaw, and then lightly tapping the ends of each sleeve into a very slight oval shape at the ends, the sleeves stay in the holes, but still fit the pins. Now that I know it works, I'll use some shim stock wrapped around the sleeves to get a more permanent press-fit.
If the pins are no too sloppy, you can cut strips of shim stock that are the thickness of the gaps, roll it around a small drill bit and then cut it to a length that makes it jam-fit into the holes.
Paul
- tcalo
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
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I aquired another stove, Crawford. It’s good to run this winter but I plan on breaking it down in the spring and giving it a complete over haul. My G109 pins don’t have heads and are pressed into the door hinge. The Crawford pin on the clinker door has a head on it. It’s also pressed in. I gently tried prying it out from the head but it’s in there good. I may have to cut it off and drill it out. I need to source new pins before I attempt that though. I’ve found pins, but not what I need. This pin measures 2.25” long x 7/16” thick. The stove was restored by Stove Hospital several years back so I was thinking of calling them for help. I have plenty of time to figure things out though, no plans of breaking it down until the spring!
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- Sunny Boy
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- Posts: 25729
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Your second picture looks like original pins. It's the type of two short pins commonly seen so that the door can be lifted off. In the sailboat world that's called a "gudgeon and pintle" type hinge - used on many sailboat rudders, so they can be easily removed to prevent damage when hauling out, or trailering the boat.
I suspect the one long pin in the first picture may have been a later replacement ???? A lot easier to align the door by drilling out both holes with a long drill bit and then just use one long pin rather than getting two pins to press fit and align.
Paul
I suspect the one long pin in the first picture may have been a later replacement ???? A lot easier to align the door by drilling out both holes with a long drill bit and then just use one long pin rather than getting two pins to press fit and align.
Paul
- tcalo
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
How were the originals installed, pressed into place I assume?
Just thought of this...I may just cut the pin at the right spots to allow it to lift out of the hinges, just like the Glenwood setup.
Just thought of this...I may just cut the pin at the right spots to allow it to lift out of the hinges, just like the Glenwood setup.
-
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
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how 'bout some more pics of the Crawford there buddio ?
not sayin it ain't real but i see pics like that door corner on the interweb all the time
steve
not sayin it ain't real but i see pics like that door corner on the interweb all the time
steve
- Sunny Boy
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- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
The original pintles may have been placed into the mold sand before the pour to be cast in place (the cast iron would shrink tight to the pin as it cooled), or press-fit as part of the casting's finishing.
If the lower end will stay put, yeah, cutting the one long pin to make it into two pintles should work. Since you have to cut it either way,.....
Paul
Last edited by Sunny Boy on Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25729
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
- tcalo
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- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
Thanks. This may just be a stepping stone for now, although that could all change once I put some coal through it. I really needed longer burn times and shorter recovery. I was pushing my G109 to it’s limit! After comparing the 2 stoves I must admit I find the craftsmanship on the Glenwood’s top notch. Not that the Crawford is inferior by any means, it’s a beautiful stove. It’s just different. I’m very meticulous...just ask my wife...it’s in the details for me. I really have to love something to accept it. The Glenwood just does something for me. I will say that the Crawford is HEAVY compared to my G109. Could be the size difference, could be the castings which seem beefier. I’ll know more once I break it down. My only fear at this point is it’ll have too much punch. I’m quite confident though that I can tighten it up enough to keep temps bearable. I buttoned up my GW quite well.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25729
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
That's the beauty of those well made old coal stoves - if they seem too big - they can be run low and slow and all that happens is they run longer. Better to have enough coal stove for the coldest days, than have to over-work a too-small stove.tcalo wrote: ↑Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 2:53 pmThanks. This may just be a stepping stone for now, although that could all change once I put some coal through it. I really needed longer burn times and shorter recovery. I was pushing my G109 to it’s limit! After comparing the 2 stoves I must admit I find the craftsmanship on the Glenwood’s top notch. Not that the Crawford is inferior by any means, it’s a beautiful stove. It’s just different. I’m very meticulous...just ask my wife...it’s in the details for me. I really have to love something to accept it. The Glenwood just does something for me. I will say that the Crawford is HEAVY compared to my G109. Could be the size difference, could be the castings which seem beefier. I’ll know more once I break it down. My only fear at this point is it’ll have too much punch. I’m quite confident though that I can tighten it up enough to keep temps bearable. I buttoned up my GW quite well.
Paul
-
- Member
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- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
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- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
ooooh, aaaaaaah. just like the 4th of july.
i'll just say that you should be prepared to run it with the primary completely closed ( there will be enough air bypassing the shaker plate ) and use the secondaries as an over fire brake on what actually gets pulled thru the fire bed.
if you use an MPD you may never need to use the internal check damper.
make no mistake this stove will bury your #9 for output.
steve
i'll just say that you should be prepared to run it with the primary completely closed ( there will be enough air bypassing the shaker plate ) and use the secondaries as an over fire brake on what actually gets pulled thru the fire bed.
if you use an MPD you may never need to use the internal check damper.
make no mistake this stove will bury your #9 for output.
steve
Last edited by KingCoal on Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 6:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- tcalo
- Member
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- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
I figured that from all the reading I’ve been doing. Big s.o.b.! I’m hoping to have it hooked up by the weekend. Needs some resealing and waiting on an oval to round adaptor I ordered. Working on tightening up the primary and clinker doors. Just a bit of filing to true them up and the high temp silicon trick. Stay tuned...
- coaledsweat
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I've got a small lathe. Post up the dimesions and maybe I could spin a couple out.