Looking for part diagram for Glenwood Oak No 3 1899

 
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Lydo
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Post by Lydo » Fri. Sep. 21, 2018 4:32 pm

Hi there,
We are looking for a diagram of all the parts for a Glenwood Oak No 3 Air Tight 1899. This beautifull stove was given to us by a friend who inherited it and couldn’t use it. Since we heat our house with wood in our Elmira kitchen stove and two inserted fireplaces, he gave it to us 😁.
We are now cleaning it and are getting ready to poor a new cement fire box but as we are cleaning it, we’re not sure that we’re missing parts and if we are, I’m not sure where I can find them.
I have to thank you for your forum. It provided more information on this type of stove than anywhere in Canada though it was built in Bedford Quebec.
Here’s a picture of it while it was still stored in our garage


 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. Sep. 21, 2018 5:29 pm

Not seeing a pic here. Do you need some help posting it?

 
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Lydo
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Post by Lydo » Sat. Sep. 22, 2018 6:50 pm

Ok, I think I figured it out. Thanks

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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Sep. 22, 2018 8:25 pm

Looks good. I don't see anything missing outside.

The stub ends of the grate bar axles are showing so I assume it has all four grate bars.

If not there, you'll need a grate shaker handle with a triangular socket - usually 3/4 inch triangle and quite common on eBay. And an ash pan that fits will make cleaning out the ash drawer much easier.

Looks like the mica windows in the loading door have been painted over, or replaced with sheet metal. You can get new mica and cut it to fit with scissors, so you'll be able to watch the blue Ladies dance on the firebed. :yes:

Paul

 
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Lydo
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Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Oak No 3 1899
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Other Heating: Wood

Post by Lydo » Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 12:12 pm

Great feedback Sonny Boy! Thanks. Yes all four grate bars are there but they had all lost their lock pins. Got them working again. It does have it’s ash pan so we’re also good there.

Didn’t know about the mica plate, they are indeed repainted. Will definately replace those with mica. Can’t wait to see the blue ladies dance :)

I think we are missing inside parts though. Like the inside damper is broken, missing a piece and the key that is suppose to work the damper is loose as if it is missing a part like a washer and/or a gear like thing-a-m’jig.

By the way, that’s a beautiful cooking stove you’ve got there!

Thanks again!

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 12:35 pm

Lydo wrote:
Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 12:12 pm
Great feedback Sonny Boy! Thanks. Yes all four grate bars are there but they had all lost their lock pins. Got them working again. It does have it’s ash pan so we’re also good there.

Didn’t know about the mica plate, they are indeed repainted. Will definately replace those with mica. Can’t wait to see the blue ladies dance :)

I think we are missing inside parts though. Like the inside damper is broken, missing a piece and the key that is suppose to work the damper is loose as if it is missing a part like a washer and/or a gear like thing-a-m’jig.

By the way, that’s a beautiful cooking stove you’ve got there!

Thanks again!
Thanks Lydo, the real beauty of the range is in what all it can do. Check out the Cookin' With Coal thread when you get a chance. Cookin' With Coal

Can you post pix of where you suspect damper parts are missing or not working correctly ? We might be able to help figure out the what or why. We have a few members that restore these old Glenwoods professionally.

Paul

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 6:26 pm

Welcome to the club, Lydo. Fancy stove you've acquired there. You said you heat with wood. We hope to rectify that. :lol:


 
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Lydo
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Post by Lydo » Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 8:36 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 12:35 pm
Thanks Lydo, the real beauty of the range is in what all it can do. Check out the Cookin' With Coal thread when you get a chance. Cookin' With Coal

Can you post pix of where you suspect damper parts are missing or not working correctly ? We might be able to help figure out the what or why. We have a few members that restore these old Glenwoods professionally.

Paul
Thanks again Paul. Here are some pics of the damper and its key

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IMG_0540.JPG
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Lydo
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Post by Lydo » Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 8:44 pm

joeq wrote:
Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 6:26 pm
Welcome to the club, Lydo. Fancy stove you've acquired there. You said you heat with wood. We hope to rectify that. :lol:
Thank you! I really hope that we can get it to work. Well, as for using coal, we did for a while but I guess we just didn't know how to use it properly and we probably didn't have the right king of coal. Anyways, be assured that we'll be using coal in the next years cause we aint getting younger to cut and split a bush cord of wood. :D

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 11:02 pm

Lydo wrote:
Sun. Sep. 23, 2018 8:36 pm
Thanks again Paul. Here are some pics of the damper and its key
Your not missing anything there,... in fact you have a rather rare accessory called a, "back pipe".

It's an extra length of stove pipe that has a vertical baffle plate inside it that divides it into two flues to increase the exhaust heat pathway length, thus increasing the heat radiating area, while also slowing the exhaust gas down to give more time for heat transfer. A nice accessory for extracting the most heat before the exhaust reaches the chimney. :yes:

That baffle just changes the exhaust path for either, "direct draft" from the barrel to stove pipe - which you use when starting the fire and refueling- or "indirect draft" for when the fire is going well you flip the handle and it sends the exhaust down the front half of the back pipe, under the bottom edge of the baffle then up the back half of the back pipe to the stove pipe.

All you need to do is reattach the handle to that damper plate. Then make sure the baffle plate inside the back pipe, which that baffle plate fits into, is not warped, or cracked.

Paul

 
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Lydo
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Post by Lydo » Mon. Sep. 24, 2018 10:49 am

Thanks Paul but if you look at the pictures again, the left side of the plate is broken and we don’t have the missing piece so we’ll try to weld one on. ( Humm, never welded cast iron before).

As for the key, should there be some kind of washer between the pipe and the key? The hole seems to be too big to hold only the key.

Lyne

 
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Sunny Boy
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Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Sep. 24, 2018 11:29 am

Opps, didn't see the missing left side.

Yes, a piece can be made up and welded on. And it will need another short axle to support that side in the baffle plate. But cast iron is tricky to weld. If not done right the plate can crack even more. I know because I had to weld a very similar type handle on my Glenwood base heater's diverter baffle. Try to find a welder experienced with repairing old cast iron that can make up the missing piece of cast iron with an axle.

The hole for the handle side axle is a bit sloppy so that with any creosote buildup and heat related shape changing, it won't bind the damper plate in the back pipe and it's baffle plate. When the damper plate is repaired and installed correctly the flared inner edge of the handle pretty well covers the sloppy fit around the axle.

Here's the same part on my Glenwood base heater. You can see the flare covers what is a sloppy fit for the axle.

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Lydo
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Other Heating: Wood

Post by Lydo » Wed. Sep. 26, 2018 10:39 am

Thanks Paul,

We found a very good welder, actually my husband’s welding teacher, but he’s very busy these days helping victims of the many tornados we had here last Friday. Let’s hope he can find time to fix our plate and pin. It’s going to get cold here very soon.

I see what you mean about the plate handle, it’s not a perfect fit.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Wed. Sep. 26, 2018 2:19 pm

Unless the stove is your only heat source, it's better to wait and have such a critical part fixed correctly by someone experienced in cast iron repair than to rush and risk further damage.

Plus, the missing parts of the damper will have to be made out of a matching cast iron and the welding teacher should know where to find the right type of cast iron for that application.

Paul

 
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Lydo
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Post by Lydo » Thu. Sep. 27, 2018 7:20 am

Undestood :yes:

Thank you sooo much for all your help.

I’ll post a picture when it’s up and running.

Lyne


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