FINALLY got a base burner
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I figure 100 miles isnt too far to go for a base burner... Found this one and talked the guy down to 1000.00. Has all new mica and a few spare sheets will get a wire cup treatment a couple minor cracks will be fixed, painted and nickel will get rubbing compound and the wool pad treatment..
Anyone know much about it... They call her a Universal Splendid OH and came with a magazine...
I found a place in Cleveland has Nox Ram 45 for 23 bucks 50pd block so the fire pit will be lined and l will seal all joints..
I think 1000 bucks was OK to pay for it seems solid...
Anyone know much about it... They call her a Universal Splendid OH and came with a magazine...
I found a place in Cleveland has Nox Ram 45 for 23 bucks 50pd block so the fire pit will be lined and l will seal all joints..
I think 1000 bucks was OK to pay for it seems solid...
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- mntbugy
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- Location: clearfield,pa
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: D S 1500, Warm Moring 400
- Baseburners & Antiques: Art Garland 145,GW114 ,Clarion 115, Vestal 20 Globe,New Royal22 Globe, Red Cross Oak 56,Acme Ventiduct 38,Radiant Airblast 626,Home Airblast 62,Moores #7,Moores 3way
- Coal Size/Type: stove and nut and some bit
- Other Heating: Propain
Steve is a good guy to get ram set from. He will deliver if it is on his way to a game.
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- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
why would you line that fire pot , it never had any as the stove was designed not to.
it's part of the radiant power of that stove, the fire pot radiates heat right out the mica windows with nothing to slow it down.
very nice grab by the way, i'm sure it will impress you.
steve
it's part of the radiant power of that stove, the fire pot radiates heat right out the mica windows with nothing to slow it down.
very nice grab by the way, i'm sure it will impress you.
steve
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King coal I guess I got from reading posts here lining the fire pit was the thing to do maybe I'm wrong?????
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The grates are not what I expected on this one...
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- Sunny Boy
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- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Congrats on finding a beauty !
What King Coal is referring to is,....
The firepot liners are to retain high heat in the firebed to improve coal burning efficiency. With some of those mica base burners, the hot exhaust gases are ducted down and around the firepot, so no liner is needed to help keep the firepot hot.
Another benefit of a liner is the firepot doesn't get the high heat differential so less heat stress on the firepot with a liner. But again, with hot exhaust surrounding the outside of the firepot there is less heat differential, so heat stress is less concern.
If your base heater directs hot exhaust to the area surrounding the firepot then a liner is not needed and will only cut down on the radiated heat the lower mica windows allow.
Paul
What King Coal is referring to is,....
The firepot liners are to retain high heat in the firebed to improve coal burning efficiency. With some of those mica base burners, the hot exhaust gases are ducted down and around the firepot, so no liner is needed to help keep the firepot hot.
Another benefit of a liner is the firepot doesn't get the high heat differential so less heat stress on the firepot with a liner. But again, with hot exhaust surrounding the outside of the firepot there is less heat differential, so heat stress is less concern.
If your base heater directs hot exhaust to the area surrounding the firepot then a liner is not needed and will only cut down on the radiated heat the lower mica windows allow.
Paul
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Well now I have thinking to do...
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- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
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- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Your stove has the firepot spaced away from the outer skin, which amounts to lessening heat loss in the pot. No lining needed.
If the pot appears fragile in any way, now is the time to get a new pot cast, using the old one as a pattern.
If the pot appears fragile in any way, now is the time to get a new pot cast, using the old one as a pattern.
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Thanks guys... the pot is thick like I want to day 3/8 to nearly half inch!!! Couple superficial scars but seems solid... The grates are not what I expected not sure how they will chew up klinger but the stove specifically says use chestnut coal so it must do OK...
- freetown fred
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- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
I may be the exception with my HITZER 50-93 but in 10 yrs burning BLASCHAK nut--I have NEVER had a clinker that needed chewing up???
- Sunny Boy
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- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Fred,
Therein lies one of the differences between the newer stoves and some of the older stoves. The older ones can burn so hot that they easily get the fire bed up to the fusion temp range of coal where clinkers can form.
Some of the more efficient models of base burners have a "clinker door" to get into the base of the firebed with a slicing tool to break up the clinkers while they are still at the crumbly stage. Many others had grate designs that mechanically chew up and dump the clinkers - like the rotating grate bars of many antiques, such as triangular, combo, or dockash style grates.
Paul
Therein lies one of the differences between the newer stoves and some of the older stoves. The older ones can burn so hot that they easily get the fire bed up to the fusion temp range of coal where clinkers can form.
Some of the more efficient models of base burners have a "clinker door" to get into the base of the firebed with a slicing tool to break up the clinkers while they are still at the crumbly stage. Many others had grate designs that mechanically chew up and dump the clinkers - like the rotating grate bars of many antiques, such as triangular, combo, or dockash style grates.
Paul
- Sunny Boy
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- Posts: 25723
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
You open the two lower front doors and use a poker, or "slicing bar" in on top of the grates to break up the clinkers. Then you shake the grates.archangel_cpj wrote: ↑Mon. Sep. 10, 2018 7:09 pmThanks guys... the pot is thick like I want to day 3/8 to nearly half inch!!! Couple superficial scars but seems solid... The grates are not what I expected not sure how they will chew up klinger but the stove specifically says use chestnut coal so it must do OK...
Fear not - that design of grates was used in many high quality stoves and they do work. There's a bunch of guys who have the same type grates - they will be on as the cold season starts to give you more detailed advice how to use the grates you have.
Paul
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Well I'm going to talk to the plater tomorrow to see if I can afford Nickle plate......
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Hey can I use windex on the micca
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Well I have high Hope's for my 9500 pds of Lehigh!!!!freetown fred wrote: ↑Mon. Sep. 10, 2018 7:16 pmI may be the exception with my HITZER 50-93 but in 10 yrs burning BLASCHAK nut--I have NEVER had a clinker that needed chewing up???