Glenwood #6 Brick Molds & Pattern Casting

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 7:25 am

I used an orbital sander held against the mixing bucket to get trapped air out. When I cast the bricks, the faces came out very smooth - no air bubble holes.

Using the Rutland in a very smooth urethane mold the "cream", as masons call it (the very fine particles in the castable refractory mix) comes to the surface. Much like what happens when floating concrete floors.

Paul


 
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 4:24 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 7:25 am
I used an orbital sander held against the mixing bucket to get trapped air out. When I cast the bricks, the faces came out very smooth - no air bubble holes.

Using the Rutland in a very smooth urethane mold the "cream", as masons call it (the very fine particles in the castable refractory mix) comes to the surface. Much like what happens when floating concrete floors.

Paul
Good, it sounds like we can rule that out as a reason for the buildup.

The slight adjustments I made to the molds were successful and this set fit in really nice.
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I'm wondering if a harder refractory would perform any better?

The Rutland castable refractory has a compressive strength of about 3000 psi.

I have a few bags left over of Mt. Savage castable refractory that we used when rebuilding high temp ovens. Unlike the Rutland, it needs to be oven cured, but is rated at 2400* f and has a compressive strength of 6000 psi.
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I'm going to make the next few sets out of the Mt. Savage for a comparison.

Paulie

 
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 4:35 pm

I was thinking of making up the same type brick molds for my Herald. Wonder how close the Herald firepot is to a G 8 and if the bricks would interchange?

If so, I'm sure Wilson has room for another set of molds when I'm done. :D

Paulie

 
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Post by joeq » Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 5:48 pm

Wow, that Mt savage looks like some heavy duty stuff Paulie. I'll bet you could use a jack hammer to remove clinkers from that mix, and not do any damage.
As for my bricks being porous, I really don't remember Paulie. nothing highly noticeable, but maybe some texture to them.
I know I purchased an electric vibrator from a comfy chair off of Ebay, to use as a built in shaker to my molds. When it arrived, there wasn't one bit of info for the electrical requirements, or even a data tag on the motor. So like the numskull that I am, rather than investigating any further, I wired a cord to it, and stuck into into my 110 wall outlet. Of course, you can imagine the outcome of that escapade. (It was a 24V motor)
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So I ended up doing as Paul recommended, and used my jitterbug on it.

 
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Post by scalabro » Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 6:10 pm

Anyone ever try castable kiln refractory...like a ceramic?

 
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 7:13 pm

joeq wrote:
Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 5:48 pm
Wow, that Mt savage looks like some heavy duty stuff Paulie. I'll bet you could use a jack hammer to remove clinkers from that mix, and not do any damage.
As for my bricks being porous, I really don't remember Paulie. nothing highly noticeable, but maybe some texture to them.
I know I purchased an electric vibrator from a comfy chair off of Ebay, to use as a built in shaker to my molds. When it arrived, there wasn't one bit of info for the electrical requirements, or even a data tag on the motor. So like the numskull that I am, rather than investigating any further, I wired a cord to it, and stuck into into my 110 wall outlet. Of course, you can imagine the outcome of that escapade. (It was a 24V motor)
burned-wile.jpg
So I ended up doing as Paul recommended, and used my jitterbug on it.
You are a riot Joe ! Although I could almost picture the quick flash and cloud of smoke .........I wish you had taken a video of it. :lol:

Not sure if the harder brick will make a difference in it sticking, but it might take the worry out of chipping the brick when it has to be chiseled off.

I had a table cart vibrator that we used for 50 lb refractory batches. Fortunately I decided to keep the vibrator itself and scrap the cart when I retired. If I ever get around to it I may just make a smaller table for the bricks and firepots.
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The dowel glued to a sanding disk on the multitool does a really nice job quick.

Paulie

 
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 7:48 pm

scalabro wrote:
Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 6:10 pm
Anyone ever try castable kiln refractory...like a ceramic?

Thanks Scott, That was one of the additives I forgot to ask the rep about. :D

Many moons ago I cast some replacment bricks for a commercial ceramic kiln. There were two different layers of brick with a ceramic blanket insulation in between. The outside layer was a soft refractory brick almost like chalk and other layer was hard. I'm guessing the soft outside layer was more for insulation.

A few days ago I ran across a ceramic product called Zircoat that sounded promising.

http://www.earthwaterfire.com/mobile/ceramic_coating.php

Mt Savage makes quite a few different types of castable refractory and if I remember tomorrow I'll ask them about something with ceramic in it.

Weren't you going with a special lining in your firepot ? Is that some type of ceramic ?

Paulie


 
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Post by scalabro » Fri. Apr. 13, 2018 6:15 am

Pauliewog wrote:
Thu. Apr. 12, 2018 7:48 pm
Thanks Scott, That was one of the additives I forgot to ask the rep about. :D

Many moons ago I cast some replacment bricks for a commercial ceramic kiln. There were two different layers of brick with a ceramic blanket insulation in between. The outside layer was a soft refractory brick almost like chalk and other layer was hard. I'm guessing the soft outside layer was more for insulation.

A few days ago I ran across a ceramic product called Zircoat that sounded promising.

http://www.earthwaterfire.com/mobile/ceramic_coating.php

Mt Savage makes quite a few different types of castable refractory and if I remember tomorrow I'll ask them about something with ceramic in it.

Weren't you going with a special lining in your firepot ? Is that some type of ceramic ?

Paulie
My Stewart has a ceramic thermal barrier coating on its “firepot”. Although with that style stove it’s not really a firepot, it’s more of a heavy “can” (a casting a bit over 1/8 inch thick) that just holds the refractory bricks in place.

 
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Post by KingCoal » Fri. Apr. 13, 2018 7:36 pm

i'm just going to say that i have a 3 yr. old set of Rutland brand hardware store bricks in FRANK that have no scale or crusty clinkers at all stuck to them. what ever they are the surfaces are just as smooth and hard as the day i put them in. formerly burned Blashack bulk nut and most of this season Lehigh bulk nut.

i ran the stove constantly this season from Nov. 1st to April 6th then let it go out while i went to Cali. from the 7th to yesterday the 12th.

would have been nice to leave it out but our weather is not going to fully co-operate for at least another week :eh: :no1:

 
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Post by Pauliewog » Sat. Apr. 21, 2018 12:34 pm

If the weather forecast is accurate, I may be shutting the base burner down this week and get a look at the firepot. It looks like the back of my bin had some red ash nut coal left over from years past. The last few weeks I noticed the ash has a pink color.
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The Mt. Savage refractory sets up enough to demold in about 5 hours so I am able to make Between 6 and 8 bricks a day.
I should have the 7th set done tomorrow. With the ones cast in the latex molds, that will break the 100 brick mark. :D I still have a few bags left so I may as well use them up.
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Since the stoker was still running I put the first two sets in the ash pan to further dry them out. I'll take the rest of them up the shop next week and put them in the powder coat oven.

Paulie

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Post by Pauliewog » Sat. Apr. 21, 2018 12:55 pm

scalabro wrote:
Fri. Apr. 13, 2018 6:15 am
My Stewart has a ceramic thermal barrier coating on its “firepot”. Although with that style stove it’s not really a firepot, it’s more of a heavy “can” (a casting a bit over 1/8 inch thick) that just holds the refractory bricks in place.
Looks like they did something very similar on some of the Baltimore Heaters. The firepot on my Parlor Sun is also very thin. I don't see any signs of a coating under the firebrick but there will be once it goes back together. :D

Paulie

 
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Post by Pauliewog » Sat. Apr. 21, 2018 1:18 pm

KingCoal wrote:
Fri. Apr. 13, 2018 7:36 pm
i'm just going to say that i have a 3 yr. old set of Rutland brand hardware store bricks in FRANK that have no scale or crusty clinkers at all stuck to them. what ever they are the surfaces are just as smooth and hard as the day i put them in. formerly burned Blashack bulk nut and most of this season Lehigh bulk nut.

i ran the stove constantly this season from Nov. 1st to April 6th then let it go out while i went to Cali. from the 7th to yesterday the 12th.

would have been nice to leave it out but our weather is not going to fully co-operate for at least another week :eh: :no1:
I'm leaning towards the type of coal causing the buildup. The Home Stove Works has a Rutland Refractory bowl also, so next week when I shut it down I'll post some pictures to show how it held up.

Paulie

 
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Post by joeq » Sat. Apr. 21, 2018 1:32 pm

Wow, Paulie! Looks like you're in assembly line mode. Will you be experimenting with different brand refractories, or strictly stick with the Mt. Savage?

 
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Post by Pauliewog » Sat. Apr. 21, 2018 2:13 pm

joeq wrote:
Sat. Apr. 21, 2018 1:32 pm
Wow, Paulie! Looks like you're in assembly line mode. Will you be experimenting with different brand refractories, or strictly stick with the Mt. Savage?
I'm not really sure Joe, If I can find a local source for fireclay I will but when the Mt. Savage runs out will probably go back to the Rutland since it ships free with Amazon Prime.


Paulie

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Apr. 22, 2018 7:24 am

I can say from experience that's a lot of work you've got done, Paulie.

It only took me making two sets of bricks to be enough to make it easy to give away my molds. :D

Paul


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