Burn time on your parlor or cylinder stove
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I run a 12 hr cycle no matter what the OAT is. My work schedule allows it mostly. I can go way way longer but at reduced power or throttle up and go on an 8 hr cycle but it gets difficult to get near the stove to tend it then
- Sunny Boy
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I've been running the #6 for about a week and a half now. Even with the magazine in, it's working out best with 12 hour tending intervals.
The reason is not the need for more fuel, but the need to shake ash limits it at the damper settings for heating a large area. Any longer than that and the heat output starts to drop off as the ash bed deepens.
I can extend that interval to 16-18 hours, but only on days it's at or above freezing outside.
Paul
The reason is not the need for more fuel, but the need to shake ash limits it at the damper settings for heating a large area. Any longer than that and the heat output starts to drop off as the ash bed deepens.
I can extend that interval to 16-18 hours, but only on days it's at or above freezing outside.
Paul
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I got about 10 hrs on 40 lbs, but I didn't try to add more.. each time I'm trying to get it to burn lower temps. I can't get it less than 350 ish on the stove pipe about 12" up.. I keep seeing where these guys have 150 up there and 350 on the barrel.. I'm sure mines closer to 600 down there.. that's why I'm trying to adjust everything to be more air tight
- Sunny Boy
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Tightening up stove air leaks will help. But, what control you have over the chimney system's draft strength is another factor in how slow you can run a stove.Tim R wrote: ↑Tue. Feb. 13, 2018 6:41 pmI got about 10 hrs on 40 lbs, but I didn't try to add more.. each time I'm trying to get it to burn lower temps. I can't get it less than 350 ish on the stove pipe about 12" up.. I keep seeing where these guys have 150 up there and 350 on the barrel.. I'm sure mines closer to 600 down there.. that's why I'm trying to adjust everything to be more air tight
Even as tight as brand new, your Glenwood stove originally came with a cast iron elbow that had a check damper built into it. That check damper was meant to be used to help control a strong chimney draft.
Do you have a manometer gauge ? And if so, what kind of readings are you getting when you try to run the stove slower ?
Paul
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What I do on the 153 since I have about 45’ of chimney over the fire pot my draft is massive. To over come this I have secondary air shut off. Stove pipe damper closed and balance draft with primary. This doubles my burn time. Stove just purrs along. Here is a vid of my setup.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Paul, I do have that cast elbo. I do not have a manometer, but I plan on borrowing one from my hvac guy... I'm not really sure what the numbers should be though.. I understand how it works.. just not sure what the readings should be or what I should aim for.. I just sealed up the ash drawer with some high temp silicone as a gasket where it shuts... if it holds up, it should make a huge difference
- swattley01
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Sunny Boy wrote: ↑Tue. Feb. 13, 2018 6:49 pmTightening up stove air leaks will help. But, what control you have over the chimney system's draft strength is another factor in how slow you can run a stove.
Even as tight as brand new, your Glenwood stove originally came with a cast iron elbow that had a check damper built into it. That check damper was meant to be used to help control a strong chimney draft.
Do you have a manometer gauge ? And if so, what kind of readings are you getting when you try to run the stove slower ?
Paul is there a meter that we could mount in the chimney pipe and leave it there to check drafts as part of running the stove?
- Sunny Boy
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Yes, there is a meter. Many of us use a manometer gauge connected by a thin tube to the stove pipe. If you plug "manometer" into the search box you'll find lots of info on their installation and use.
They come in two types. A liquid "balance tube" type, and a bellows type gauge called a magnehelic manometer.
Both are made by the Dwyer company. The liquid type Dwyer Mark II model is less expensive and that's what most of us use.
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Manome ... riesMarkII
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/CatalogSearch.cfm
Paul
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I had all the dampeners shut. One lower one open a crack. And the manual baro open in the elbo about halg way. It was burning very slow, but was still giving off ample heat for my house. 1800 Sq foot built in 1920, heats the whole thing and it's off to one side
- joeq
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Sounds pretty good. Your house sounds a lot like mine. Built in the teens, but you have 1 more room than me. My stove is also set off to the side, downstairs, in a foyer, off the living area. Do you have an up-stairs?
I'm in the middle of an experiment too. Just came home from work, (10 hr burn), and am dying to shake it down, but want to see how much longer she'll last before being unrecoverable. It's still alive, but is choking down.
You say your stove after your long burn was putting out enuff heat for the house? What do you consider enuff? My sister-in-laws husband is comfortable when the house is 55°, while the rest of his family is in hooded sweat shirts. (They have a pellet stove)
I'm in the middle of an experiment too. Just came home from work, (10 hr burn), and am dying to shake it down, but want to see how much longer she'll last before being unrecoverable. It's still alive, but is choking down.
You say your stove after your long burn was putting out enuff heat for the house? What do you consider enuff? My sister-in-laws husband is comfortable when the house is 55°, while the rest of his family is in hooded sweat shirts. (They have a pellet stove)