Glenwood #116 newbie
-
- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 12:36 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modern Glenwood Oak 116
Hello everyone, I've just restored a Glenwood #116. Fired her up for the first time over the weekend. I've noticed the lower ash door doesn't shut quite tight. So 2 questions.. is there supposed to be any bushings between the hinge pins and the casting tabs? They are very loose.. also, what would be the best way to make the door have a tighter seal? Was there some sort of rope there originally somehow? I had the dampeners all all the way shut once it got going and it still was raging super hot.
- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2073
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
Nice looking stove. There were no gaskets originally on the doors. They were machined to fit tight. As far as the hinge pins go, no bushings! They're probably just worn. You could bend the door pins slightly to get a tighter fit. You could also install fiberglass gasket to the base to compensate for the gap on the doors. Ultimately your looking for a dollar bill to get snagged between the door and base, that's how you know you have a tight fit. Good luck!
-
- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 12:36 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modern Glenwood Oak 116
They don't look worn, the holes compared to the size of the pins are very sloppy. The pins are about 1/8" maybe slightly larger and the casting holes are probably more like 1/4".. I've seen a few posts on here that people form a bead of high temp silicone to make a tighter fit.. I can't imagine silicon holding up to those temps
- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2073
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
I've done the silicone trick with my stove. It works great and holds up surprisingly well. Not sure how big of a gap your talking. Silicone makes up for slightly imperfect seals, anything larger would need a gasket.
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11417
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
I have used gasketing intended for stove glass. Has its own sticky and works well. The hinge area had biggest gap.
I wonder how well JB Weld epoxy would work. I think it is heat resistant enough. Close on waxed paper to prevent sticking.
Whatever you use, it must be done to get control of the fire.
I wonder how well JB Weld epoxy would work. I think it is heat resistant enough. Close on waxed paper to prevent sticking.
Whatever you use, it must be done to get control of the fire.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25756
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
The door hinge pins are tough to replace. But, the pins, or the pin holes, can be sleeved with short lengths of steel brake tubing gently pressed into place. Then the holes can be re-drilled to proper fit if needed.
Put a dab of high-temp disc brake silicone grease, or anti-seize compound on the pins to lessen wear.
Paul
Put a dab of high-temp disc brake silicone grease, or anti-seize compound on the pins to lessen wear.
Paul
- D-frost
- Member
- Posts: 1187
- Joined: Sun. Dec. 08, 2013 7:10 am
- Location: Southern New Hampshire
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman MK ll
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Yukon Eagle I (multi-fuel oil, wood/coal)
- Baseburners & Antiques: Herald 'fireside oak'
- Coal Size/Type: nut/stove-Blaschak/Lehigh
G#116,
The load door on my Herald had a 'lotta wiggle'. I'm not good at bending pins without creating more damage, so, I sleaved the pins with a small coil spring, much like the 'heli-coil' trick used on the old VW heads with a stripped sparkplug hole. Works great, and I didn't break anything.
Cheers
The load door on my Herald had a 'lotta wiggle'. I'm not good at bending pins without creating more damage, so, I sleaved the pins with a small coil spring, much like the 'heli-coil' trick used on the old VW heads with a stripped sparkplug hole. Works great, and I didn't break anything.
Cheers
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30302
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Good old American ingenuity D!! OUTSTANDING!!
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30302
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
D, ya only THINK you're getting away with not posting a pix of that!! LOL
- D-frost
- Member
- Posts: 1187
- Joined: Sun. Dec. 08, 2013 7:10 am
- Location: Southern New Hampshire
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman MK ll
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Yukon Eagle I (multi-fuel oil, wood/coal)
- Baseburners & Antiques: Herald 'fireside oak'
- Coal Size/Type: nut/stove-Blaschak/Lehigh
FF,
Camera crew(Lillian) is on strike! That's why I referenced the VW heli-coil. Every VW owner in the world knows what a heli-coil is!!!
We possibly might maybe get 'lucky' after Valentines Day.
Cheers
Camera crew(Lillian) is on strike! That's why I referenced the VW heli-coil. Every VW owner in the world knows what a heli-coil is!!!
We possibly might maybe get 'lucky' after Valentines Day.
Cheers
-
- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 12:36 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modern Glenwood Oak 116
I've been reading about adding a barometric damper.. possibly I have too strong a draw? Like I said earier. New to this coal business.. not sure how hot its supposed to burn. I have a thermometer on the stie pipe about 18" up from the elbo, just below the pipe damper and lowest I can get it to burn was 300 up there. I had both lower ash door vents shut. The vent on the elbo about 1/4 the way open to pull some air in that way.. my chimeny is about 28' of stainless double wall and it goes basically straight up
- michaelanthony
- Member
- Posts: 4550
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 22, 2008 10:42 pm
- Location: millinocket,me.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant 2310, gold marc box stove
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Gold Marc Independence
- Baseburners & Antiques: Home Sparkle 12
- Coal Size/Type: 'nut
- Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace
The only way to answer you question is 2 fold, 1) you need to know what your draft is, (manometer needed), and 2) you need to seal any and all leaks allowing air to get to the coal bed. We have all been there so no worries my friend!Tim R wrote: ↑Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 9:56 amI've been reading about adding a barometric damper.. possibly I have too strong a draw? Like I said earier. New to this coal business.. not sure how hot its supposed to burn. I have a thermometer on the stie pipe about 18" up from the elbo, just below the pipe damper and lowest I can get it to burn was 300 up there. I had both lower ash door vents shut. The vent on the elbo about 1/4 the way open to pull some air in that way.. my chimeny is about 28' of stainless double wall and it goes basically straight up
...a second mpd might help, they are much cheaper than a baro, take care of my first 2 suggestion.
Mike