Glenwood #116 newbie

Tim R · Post by **Tim R** » Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 12:04 pm

Hello everyone, I've just restored a Glenwood #116. Fired her up for the first time over the weekend. I've noticed the lower ash door doesn't shut quite tight. So 2 questions.. is there supposed to be any bushings between the hinge pins and the casting tabs? They are very loose.. also, what would be the best way to make the door have a tighter seal? Was there some sort of rope there originally somehow? I had the dampeners all all the way shut once it got going and it still was raging super hot.

Tim R · Post by **Tim R** » Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 12:06 pm

This is her

tcalo · Post by **tcalo** » Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 12:40 pm

Nice looking stove. There were no gaskets originally on the doors. They were machined to fit tight. As far as the hinge pins go, no bushings! They're probably just worn. You could bend the door pins slightly to get a tighter fit. You could also install fiberglass gasket to the base to compensate for the gap on the doors. Ultimately your looking for a dollar bill to get snagged between the door and base, that's how you know you have a tight fit. Good luck!

Tim R · Post by **Tim R** » Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 1:16 pm

They don't look worn, the holes compared to the size of the pins are very sloppy. The pins are about 1/8" maybe slightly larger and the casting holes are probably more like 1/4".. I've seen a few posts on here that people form a bead of high temp silicone to make a tighter fit.. I can't imagine silicon holding up to those temps

tcalo · Post by **tcalo** » Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 2:32 pm

I've done the silicone trick with my stove. It works great and holds up surprisingly well. Not sure how big of a gap your talking. Silicone makes up for slightly imperfect seals, anything larger would need a gasket.

tcalo · Post by **tcalo** » Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 2:36 pm

I used this stuff

Post by **franco b** » Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 3:11 pm

I have used gasketing intended for stove glass. Has its own sticky and works well. The hinge area had biggest gap.

I wonder how well JB Weld epoxy would work. I think it is heat resistant enough. Close on waxed paper to prevent sticking.

Whatever you use, it must be done to get control of the fire.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 11:10 am

The door hinge pins are tough to replace. But, the pins, or the pin holes, can be sleeved with short lengths of steel brake tubing gently pressed into place. Then the holes can be re-drilled to proper fit if needed.

Put a dab of high-temp disc brake silicone grease, or anti-seize compound on the pins to lessen wear.

Paul

D-frost · Post by **D-frost** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 11:54 am

G#116,
The load door on my Herald had a 'lotta wiggle'. I'm not good at bending pins without creating more damage, so, I sleaved the pins with a small coil spring, much like the 'heli-coil' trick used on the old VW heads with a stripped sparkplug hole. Works great, and I didn't break anything.
Cheers

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 12:42 pm

Good old American ingenuity D!! OUTSTANDING!!

Post by **franco b** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 1:48 pm

I like it too, good idea. Worth a first try.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 1:55 pm

D, ya only THINK you're getting away with not posting a pix of that!! LOL

D-frost · Post by **D-frost** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 3:25 pm

FF,
Camera crew(Lillian) is on strike! That's why I referenced the VW heli-coil. Every VW owner in the world knows what a heli-coil is!!!
We possibly might maybe get 'lucky' after Valentines Day.
Cheers

Tim R · Post by **Tim R** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 9:56 am

I've been reading about adding a barometric damper.. possibly I have too strong a draw? Like I said earier. New to this coal business.. not sure how hot its supposed to burn. I have a thermometer on the stie pipe about 18" up from the elbo, just below the pipe damper and lowest I can get it to burn was 300 up there. I had both lower ash door vents shut. The vent on the elbo about 1/4 the way open to pull some air in that way.. my chimeny is about 28' of stainless double wall and it goes basically straight up

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 12:17 pm

Tim R wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 9:56 am
I've been reading about adding a barometric damper.. possibly I have too strong a draw? Like I said earier. New to this coal business.. not sure how hot its supposed to burn. I have a thermometer on the stie pipe about 18" up from the elbo, just below the pipe damper and lowest I can get it to burn was 300 up there. I had both lower ash door vents shut. The vent on the elbo about 1/4 the way open to pull some air in that way.. my chimeny is about 28' of stainless double wall and it goes basically straight up

The only way to answer you question is 2 fold, 1) you need to know what your draft is, (manometer needed), and 2) you need to seal any and all leaks allowing air to get to the coal bed. We have all been there so no worries my friend!

...a second mpd might help, they are much cheaper than a baro, take care of my first 2 suggestion.

Mike

Glenwood #116 newbie

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