Glenwood #116 newbie

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 12:51 pm

Agree with Mike. You have a stove air control problem that adding a baro won't fix. It will just mask it. And it might be more than just the ash drawer door leaking.

That high of a pipe temp with the primary dampers closed, and the elbow check damper open, is a very strong indication of air leaks at, or below, the firebed.

You can use an incense stick, or smoldering string to have the thin stream of smoke passed very closely to all the stove seams, doors, and around the firepot. Use chalk to mark where it gets pulled in by any leaks. With these old stoves there can be more than one, so don't be fooled into stopping at the first leak you find. Just mark it and keep checking it all over carefully, including under the stove base.

Paul

 
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swattley01
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Post by swattley01 » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 4:15 pm

as far as the hinge goes i just improved mine this year, i first made sure the tabs on the stove were not worn out and ob-longed holes, i then took my door to a machine supply type place and used drill bits to see what size bit would be a snug fit in the holes (just know there are letter drills to make small increments in size.) i found the size that fit great and order a length of drill rod. or at first i used the bits when i got back to the cabin and the door worked so much better,
then i used 1/2 flat stove window gasket and cemented it to the stove. i see a huge difference this year in my draft
also try to add a baro damper to your flue

 
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swattley01
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Post by swattley01 » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 4:30 pm

i had an idea i have not tried on mine yet, this will hope make sense to anyone who is a auto mechanic. to you guys restoring stoves has anyone tried to use a smoke machine to test for leaks coming from below the coal bed of these stoves. you would shut the stove and seal the chimney and add the wand to add the smoke. and see what leaks out of the stove.

 
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swattley01
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Post by swattley01 » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 6:46 pm

Tim R wrote:
Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 1:16 pm
They don't look worn, the holes compared to the size of the pins are very sloppy. The pins are about 1/8" maybe slightly larger and the casting holes are probably more like 1/4".. I've seen a few posts on here that people form a bead of high temp silicone to make a tighter fit.. I can't imagine silicon holding up to those temps
i made new hinge pins out of drill rod. i went to a place with my ash door that had a machinist assortment of drill bits with letter size bits so more increments. i picked the bit size that fit the holes on my ash door very snug. i then made new pins and now my door is so firm. i then used stove window gasket 1/2 inch wide and glue it to the stove. now i can see the fire die down alot when i shut off my damper in the ash door.


 
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Post by Tim R » Tue. Feb. 13, 2018 5:34 pm

The only place I know it would leak is around the ash drawer. I put this thing back together with gobs of furnace cement at each joint.. I just did the high temp silicone/wax paper trick suggested. I'm gonna fire her back up tomorrow and see what happens.

 
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Post by Tim R » Tue. Feb. 13, 2018 5:36 pm

I took this complete apart, sandblasted every inch in the blasting cabinet bofore putting it back together. This stove I don't think was used much in its day, that's why I was wondering about those hinge pins. The casting holes are perfectly round, and the pins are not worn at all either.. that's why I though it was odd how loose they are together.

 
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swattley01
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Post by swattley01 » Wed. Feb. 14, 2018 9:32 am

i would think the pins are not the original pins, i believe this is what happen to my stove, yet i actually have every accessory like the shaker arm and lid removal tool mine came with. try my idea and go to a complete open drill assortment and see if you can find what size fits tight in the holes.

i would love to try to restore a pot belly as you describe take it all apart and build it back together, i been looking around for something not so expensive to play around with.

 
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Post by Tim R » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 5:36 pm

Well, got some high temp silicone from my local plumbing supply. Did the bead on the face of the lower opening, cut some strips of wax paper, laid it on the bead and shut the door on it until cured. Peeled the paper off, perect fitting door. I still question the door pins. It all looks original to me. Just sloppy. This stove still had original liner bricks in it when I got it. (The back of the bricks have #116 cast into them) . Anyway, got her fired up this afternoon, what a difference! It's actually tolerable to be next to it, chugging along I have one lower vent open just a crack all others shut, pipe damper shut. Have about 150° on the temp guage on the stove pipe. Thanks for all the help guys.


 
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Sunny Boy
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 6:38 pm

Good to hear. That should hold it for the rest of the season. A good summer project is to do something about the hinge pin slop so that it helps keep the door aligned to make the seal work consistently.

Paul

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Feb. 18, 2018 2:42 pm

New to your thread here Tim, but love your stove. Good job on the resto. Now a matter of tweaking and tuning. In the beginning stages, I also agree a manometer would be a good addition to help learn what the stove is doing. Glad to hear you're making progress. Curious if you posted any photos of your stove, (vertical :) ), in the thread titled "Pictures of your Stove". Would like to see more of it.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Sun. Feb. 18, 2018 3:25 pm

Tim R wrote:
Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 5:36 pm
Well, got some high temp silicone from my local plumbing supply. Did the bead on the face of the lower opening, cut some strips of wax paper, laid it on the bead and shut the door on it until cured. Peeled the paper off, perect fitting door. I still question the door pins. It all looks original to me. Just sloppy. This stove still had original liner bricks in it when I got it. (The back of the bricks have #116 cast into them) . Anyway, got her fired up this afternoon, what a difference! It's actually tolerable to be next to it, chugging along I have one lower vent open just a crack all others shut, pipe damper shut. Have about 150° on the temp guage on the stove pipe. Thanks for all the help guys.
Nice job my friend! Good for you having the original bricks, take care of 'em. As joeq stated we would love some pic's :yes:

 
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Post by joeq » Sun. Feb. 18, 2018 4:18 pm

"Vertical", not sideways. ;)

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