Glenwood #116 newbie
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25754
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Agree with Mike. You have a stove air control problem that adding a baro won't fix. It will just mask it. And it might be more than just the ash drawer door leaking.
That high of a pipe temp with the primary dampers closed, and the elbow check damper open, is a very strong indication of air leaks at, or below, the firebed.
You can use an incense stick, or smoldering string to have the thin stream of smoke passed very closely to all the stove seams, doors, and around the firepot. Use chalk to mark where it gets pulled in by any leaks. With these old stoves there can be more than one, so don't be fooled into stopping at the first leak you find. Just mark it and keep checking it all over carefully, including under the stove base.
Paul
That high of a pipe temp with the primary dampers closed, and the elbow check damper open, is a very strong indication of air leaks at, or below, the firebed.
You can use an incense stick, or smoldering string to have the thin stream of smoke passed very closely to all the stove seams, doors, and around the firepot. Use chalk to mark where it gets pulled in by any leaks. With these old stoves there can be more than one, so don't be fooled into stopping at the first leak you find. Just mark it and keep checking it all over carefully, including under the stove base.
Paul
- swattley01
- Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 17, 2014 7:35 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
- Baseburners & Antiques: Buckwalters Vale Oak 315
- Coal Size/Type: nut / rice
- Other Heating: March Brownback potbelly #12
as far as the hinge goes i just improved mine this year, i first made sure the tabs on the stove were not worn out and ob-longed holes, i then took my door to a machine supply type place and used drill bits to see what size bit would be a snug fit in the holes (just know there are letter drills to make small increments in size.) i found the size that fit great and order a length of drill rod. or at first i used the bits when i got back to the cabin and the door worked so much better,
then i used 1/2 flat stove window gasket and cemented it to the stove. i see a huge difference this year in my draft
also try to add a baro damper to your flue
then i used 1/2 flat stove window gasket and cemented it to the stove. i see a huge difference this year in my draft
also try to add a baro damper to your flue
- swattley01
- Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 17, 2014 7:35 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
- Baseburners & Antiques: Buckwalters Vale Oak 315
- Coal Size/Type: nut / rice
- Other Heating: March Brownback potbelly #12
i had an idea i have not tried on mine yet, this will hope make sense to anyone who is a auto mechanic. to you guys restoring stoves has anyone tried to use a smoke machine to test for leaks coming from below the coal bed of these stoves. you would shut the stove and seal the chimney and add the wand to add the smoke. and see what leaks out of the stove.
- swattley01
- Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 17, 2014 7:35 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
- Baseburners & Antiques: Buckwalters Vale Oak 315
- Coal Size/Type: nut / rice
- Other Heating: March Brownback potbelly #12
i made new hinge pins out of drill rod. i went to a place with my ash door that had a machinist assortment of drill bits with letter size bits so more increments. i picked the bit size that fit the holes on my ash door very snug. i then made new pins and now my door is so firm. i then used stove window gasket 1/2 inch wide and glue it to the stove. now i can see the fire die down alot when i shut off my damper in the ash door.Tim R wrote: ↑Tue. Feb. 06, 2018 1:16 pmThey don't look worn, the holes compared to the size of the pins are very sloppy. The pins are about 1/8" maybe slightly larger and the casting holes are probably more like 1/4".. I've seen a few posts on here that people form a bead of high temp silicone to make a tighter fit.. I can't imagine silicon holding up to those temps
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- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 12:36 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modern Glenwood Oak 116
The only place I know it would leak is around the ash drawer. I put this thing back together with gobs of furnace cement at each joint.. I just did the high temp silicone/wax paper trick suggested. I'm gonna fire her back up tomorrow and see what happens.
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- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 12:36 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modern Glenwood Oak 116
I took this complete apart, sandblasted every inch in the blasting cabinet bofore putting it back together. This stove I don't think was used much in its day, that's why I was wondering about those hinge pins. The casting holes are perfectly round, and the pins are not worn at all either.. that's why I though it was odd how loose they are together.
- swattley01
- Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 17, 2014 7:35 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alaska Gnome 40
- Baseburners & Antiques: Buckwalters Vale Oak 315
- Coal Size/Type: nut / rice
- Other Heating: March Brownback potbelly #12
i would think the pins are not the original pins, i believe this is what happen to my stove, yet i actually have every accessory like the shaker arm and lid removal tool mine came with. try my idea and go to a complete open drill assortment and see if you can find what size fits tight in the holes.
i would love to try to restore a pot belly as you describe take it all apart and build it back together, i been looking around for something not so expensive to play around with.
i would love to try to restore a pot belly as you describe take it all apart and build it back together, i been looking around for something not so expensive to play around with.
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- New Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 12:36 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modern Glenwood Oak 116
Well, got some high temp silicone from my local plumbing supply. Did the bead on the face of the lower opening, cut some strips of wax paper, laid it on the bead and shut the door on it until cured. Peeled the paper off, perect fitting door. I still question the door pins. It all looks original to me. Just sloppy. This stove still had original liner bricks in it when I got it. (The back of the bricks have #116 cast into them) . Anyway, got her fired up this afternoon, what a difference! It's actually tolerable to be next to it, chugging along I have one lower vent open just a crack all others shut, pipe damper shut. Have about 150° on the temp guage on the stove pipe. Thanks for all the help guys.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25754
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Good to hear. That should hold it for the rest of the season. A good summer project is to do something about the hinge pin slop so that it helps keep the door aligned to make the seal work consistently.
Paul
Paul
- joeq
- Member
- Posts: 5744
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
New to your thread here Tim, but love your stove. Good job on the resto. Now a matter of tweaking and tuning. In the beginning stages, I also agree a manometer would be a good addition to help learn what the stove is doing. Glad to hear you're making progress. Curious if you posted any photos of your stove, (vertical ), in the thread titled "Pictures of your Stove". Would like to see more of it.
- michaelanthony
- Member
- Posts: 4550
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 22, 2008 10:42 pm
- Location: millinocket,me.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant 2310, gold marc box stove
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Gold Marc Independence
- Baseburners & Antiques: Home Sparkle 12
- Coal Size/Type: 'nut
- Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace
Nice job my friend! Good for you having the original bricks, take care of 'em. As joeq stated we would love some pic'sTim R wrote: ↑Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 5:36 pmWell, got some high temp silicone from my local plumbing supply. Did the bead on the face of the lower opening, cut some strips of wax paper, laid it on the bead and shut the door on it until cured. Peeled the paper off, perect fitting door. I still question the door pins. It all looks original to me. Just sloppy. This stove still had original liner bricks in it when I got it. (The back of the bricks have #116 cast into them) . Anyway, got her fired up this afternoon, what a difference! It's actually tolerable to be next to it, chugging along I have one lower vent open just a crack all others shut, pipe damper shut. Have about 150° on the temp guage on the stove pipe. Thanks for all the help guys.