Just another GW #6

 
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Sunny Boy
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Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 9:48 am

Keepaeyeonit wrote:
Thu. Feb. 08, 2018 5:32 pm
Hey Paul I'm liking this thread :yes: what temp are you running your #6 now? sorry If I missed It but I don't remember seeing It.
I'm watching your results with the mag, I would like to get one( I'm sure thats going to be harder then getting the stove :) ) If possible but only If It proves successful, I'm not sure how It will be using stove size?
KEI

It's only been a week, I'm still figuring out what the best running temps are.

So far, with the primaries set at about 1/3, that keeps it about 450F near the top of the barrel and about 145F on the pipe just before the chimney thimble. That gives a mano reading of .035-ish. That makes the barrel about 590-600F near the bottom and a healthy glow from the firepot.

That seems to do the best compromise between keeping the house warm and getting the longest times between tending (once in the morning, once before bed time).

If I open the primaries to almost half, it runs 500F+ near the top, 175F pipe, and .04 mano. The house doesn't seem to be any warmer, but I have to refuel sooner because heat output starts to drop as it starts to ash up.

As I suspected, with the mag in, lack of fuel is not the limiting factor for how long it will run - ash buildup in the firebed is. The mag makes the time to tend the stove much, much shorter.

Paul


 
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Sunny Boy
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Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 10:23 am

Well, here's the start of day ten running the #6. It's working out better than I thought for my situation. The location of the cold air return in the floor right behind the stove is helping distribute the high heat this base heater.

One concern I had was if the col stoves would do such a good job that the furnace would not cycle enough in really cold weather to dump some heat into the basement. I thought I might have to run a third stove down there.

But that's turned out to not be the case. When the temps get so cold that both stoves can't quite keep up with this drafty monstrosity of a house's heat loss, the electric furnace cycles on. And that's turning out to be right about when it gets cold enough outside that the pipes could freeze. I have an uncovered bucket of water in the coldest part of the basement and I keep checking it to see if it's icing up. Hasn't since the #6 started. The furnace steals some of the heat that the stoves make and sheds it though the basement duct work. That's enough to keep the floors warmer and the pipes from freezing without losing too much heat to the basement. So now, the furnace not only doesn't come on until it's really needed, it also runs for much shorter times.

Some of you may remember that this #6 has the prototype welded, plate steel base chamber pan that Wilson makes. This was to replace the #6 thin cast iron pans of the base chamber that sometimes crack from sudden extreme thermal shock.

One other thing I wondered about was if the pan would make expansion/contraction "oil can" noises as the temps go up and down, but it's totally silent. And no worries about it cracking if the temps get too extreme,... like after I got done fitting a new ash pan.

Because I purposely made the pan a snug fit, I had the ash drawer door open for longer than normal and the stove was really starting to roar. When I closed it up and reset the dampers, the hearth board under the stove shot up to 197F reading with the IR gun. :o The all steel pan never even made a sound. Thank you Wilson !!!!!!

Another thing I'm learning about is dealing with bridging. I had heard that round, tapered firepot stoves can be prone to bridging ash. I wondered if old, rough firepot lining could be part of the cause, but this stove has new cast firebricks and it bridges after every long run. No big deal, I've learned that with a quick bit of poking and scraping straight down around the edge of the pot, using a copy of an original right angled tip coal stove poker, that easily collapses the bridging. Just not used to it because it rarely happens with my range with it's straight up and down firebox sides and shallow firebed.

So far averaging about 70 pounds a day through the really cold weather (teens and single digit OAT). It's warmed up to 35 this morning. The furnace has not come on since and the temps in the house are climbing, so I've cut back the primaries a bit. Looking forward to learning how well and long the old girl will run in a bit warmer weather. ;)

Paul

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 12:38 pm

Sounds like you're modified 6 is a perfect blend, to your old house Paul.
You mentioned your floor temps around the stove was almost 200°? What do you have for protection?
Another question is, have you ever checked your stove base, when in ID draft for temps with your IR gun? just curious. My 111 base chamber , (on the lower side panels) the highest I've seen was less than 250. That's with barrel temps about 450-500. But at that point, I'm assuming it's nothing more than exhaust heat.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 1:09 pm

joeq wrote:
Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 12:38 pm
Sounds like you're modified 6 is a perfect blend, to your old house Paul.
You mentioned your floor temps around the stove was almost 200°? What do you have for protection?
Another question is, have you ever checked your stove base, when in ID draft for temps with your IR gun? just curious. My 111 base chamber , (on the lower side panels) the highest I've seen was less than 250. That's with barrel temps about 450-500. But at that point, I'm assuming it's nothing more than exhaust heat.
Joe,
That temp was under the stove. The stove is sitting on a 1/2 inch thick, 3 ft x 4 ft hearth board from Lowes. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-Black-Stove-Board/3818607

I priced them locally and on line and the Lowes hearth board was less expensive. Plus Lowes gives a 10% Veterans discount on all their merchandise, all year long.

With the GW #6 & #8, the base chamber is hidden up under the leg base. I haven't tried to reach under there to get a reading. Just been reading the floor and the roasting pan I have under the stove - that I slide out to catch any strays when cleaning the ashes out.

The sides of the ash drawer are what is exposed above the leg base. Those have gotten up to 300F + (IR gun) when it's running around 500F near the top of the barrel and the ashes have been shaken to glowing in the ash drawer and the ashes cleaned out.

I'll try to remember to get some temps off the base chamber and post them.

Paul

 
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Sunny Boy
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 10:45 am

Joe,

Ok, got some temp numbers off the #6 Wilson all-steel base chamber.

Near the inlet side of the chamber it's 297F.
Near the outlet side it's 240F.

That's with the side of the barrel near the top at 467F, and the pipe just before the thimble at 138F.

Primaries open 1/3.
Mano is .025.
OAT 32F and no wind.

Went to bed early last night so the stove went 14 hours before refilling and shaking ash this morning. The mag was completely empty, but the firepot was full of a healthy glowing firebed. Only half filled the ash pan during shaking it down to a glow in the pan.

Paul

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 10:56 am

Thanks for those readings Paul. If you were to average your base temps, be about 250°, which is similar to what my 111 reads, ...on a good day. I was somewhat disappointed, thinking the hot gases down low would be closer to the CC temps, but I guess that's a lot to ask. I'll take 250° over ambient air temp any day.
When I'm in BH mode, and check my stove temps down there with an IR gun, and I check the temp of the vertical stove pipe on the back of the stove, I end up with temps much hotter than the base. But I contribute it to being only inches away from the barrel, which is radiating over 450°.
And good deal on your mag, Paul, goin all them hrs unattended. Sounds really "swell", Wally. :D

 
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Sunny Boy
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Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 11:27 am

The flue gases lose a lot of heat on the way to the base chamber. The "bustle" on the back of the barrel runs in the low 400F, and the back pipe's down side runs upper 300 to 400F.

Both of those parts have a lot of surface area to extract heat. Plus, the "bustle" is a wide plenum area where the flue gases can slow down and have a bit more time to dump heat before they speed back up though the narrower flue of the back pipe. That speed up/slow down and sharp turns causes turbulence that helps mix the hotter middle gas stream toward the side walls of those passages.

I had to put a cast iron range top round cover on the "bustle" as a "simmering plate" because the 3 quart tea kettle was getting too hot and boiling dry within a few hours.

Paul


 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 12:40 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 11:27 am
I had to put a cast iron range top round cover on the "bustle" as a "simmering plate" because the 3 quart tea kettle was getting too hot and boiling dry within a few hours.
Paul
I have the same problem with the 111, placing a kettle on top, with the bonnet rotated out of the way. So I put the kettle on a metal wire trivet, so it wasn't in direct contact with the eye, or plate, and it seemed to make the water last quite a bit longer. FWIW.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 12:58 pm

Before I put the mag in, the cover under the #6 dome was usually running over 500F. It seemed to average 100F more than whatever the tea shelf "bustle" was at the time. I was surprised to see the cast iron top under the dome ran closer to what the barrel was just about the firepot than at the barrel near the cast iron top.

I'm guessing that the reason might be that it's not getting as much exhaust gas circulation in that corner-like area where the barrel and the top casting meet ?

Paul

 
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Post by joeq » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 1:50 pm

Now you're confusing me Paul. (Once again..it's not you) :oops:
You said the top of the barrel, where the plate was, (B4 the mag), was 100° hotter than the bustle. I can see that, cause of the risen heat..no? Maybe I'm not understanding, cause I don't know what the CC interior looks like on a G6, or how the stove pipe is connected internally, in relation to the CC.

 
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Post by scalabro » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 6:53 pm

Hey Paul...do you find that the six throws more heat from the rear of the stove than from the front?

My friend Tony’s #8 certainly does. I think it’s all that iron out back!

 
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Sunny Boy
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 8:13 pm

scalabro wrote:
Sun. Feb. 11, 2018 6:53 pm
Hey Paul...do you find that the six throws more heat from the rear of the stove than from the front?

My friend Tony’s #8 certainly does. I think it’s all that iron out back!

Oh yeah ! The front will make you sweat, but the back will roast ya all the way through ! ;)

Paul

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Mon. Feb. 12, 2018 6:20 pm

Hahahahaha!

I’ve wondered why on stoves like mine the backpipe is not on the side?🤯

 
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Sunny Boy
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Feb. 12, 2018 7:38 pm

Still learning about how much ash shaking and what damper settings the old gal likes best.

Sure is a lot different than running a kitchen range firebox.

Paul

 
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Post by Pancho » Tue. Feb. 13, 2018 9:21 am

Sunny Boy wrote:
Mon. Feb. 12, 2018 7:38 pm
Still learning about how much ash shaking and what damper settings the old gal likes best.

Sure is a lot different than running a kitchen range firebox.

Paul
So am I....and I've been running mine for a few years now.
The hardest part, to me, is adjusting to the OAT/heating needs and remembering that.

When it's real cold outside, I have that routine down pat. When it's warm, I have that routine down pat. When it goes from cold to warm or warm to cold....that's when I really have to think about the entire process. But in either condition or transition, the mag thermometer on the barrel doesn't lie......when it dips, it's shakey time.

When it's really cold, I shake it down just until I feel the shakers getting into hard stuff. Then stop.

When it's warm (30F and above), I'll shake until I get a few glowing embers then stop.

The procedure is always changing though.


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