Several years ago I picked up a Wehrle Placid 159 at a local auction and I'm thinking about restoring it and maybe even putting it back in service as a back-up heat source. It looks to be pretty complete but there's no firebrick in the stove. Do all coal stoves have a firebrick lining or not?
Thanks for any help.
Wehrle Placid 159 Restore
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25749
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Welcome B,
Coal fires do best when they run hot. The liner helps hold heat in the firebed for more complete combustion.
With some models/makes of stoves, a liner for using coal was an option.
And with some designs of stoves, such as suspended-pot base burners, they typically didn't need a liner with coal because the exhaust was channeled down the outside of the firepot to the base flues to keep the firebed hotter.
It would help if you could post pictures of the stove, both inside and out so that we can see the design.
Plus, we just like any excuse to see pictures of stoves.
Just drag the pictures from your desktop to the text box you write in to make a post. When the green bar below that text box turns to a green circle, uploading that picture is complete. Then drag/drop the next picture. When done uploading all the pictures then hit the "submit" button.
Paul
Coal fires do best when they run hot. The liner helps hold heat in the firebed for more complete combustion.
With some models/makes of stoves, a liner for using coal was an option.
And with some designs of stoves, such as suspended-pot base burners, they typically didn't need a liner with coal because the exhaust was channeled down the outside of the firepot to the base flues to keep the firebed hotter.
It would help if you could post pictures of the stove, both inside and out so that we can see the design.
Plus, we just like any excuse to see pictures of stoves.
Just drag the pictures from your desktop to the text box you write in to make a post. When the green bar below that text box turns to a green circle, uploading that picture is complete. Then drag/drop the next picture. When done uploading all the pictures then hit the "submit" button.
Paul
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25749
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Ok, looks to be a simple "Oak" type stove. It can burn wood or coal.
With a refractory liner of about 3/4 to 1 inch thick, the coal will burn more completely. A liner will also reduce some of the heat stress on the firepot and thus reduce the risk of cracks.
Is there a vertical pipe on the rear leading to where the stove pipe would connect ?
Paul
With a refractory liner of about 3/4 to 1 inch thick, the coal will burn more completely. A liner will also reduce some of the heat stress on the firepot and thus reduce the risk of cracks.
Is there a vertical pipe on the rear leading to where the stove pipe would connect ?
Paul
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25749
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Yup, it's a direct-drafting Oak.
If your going to use it, check it carefully for cracks in the cast iron and rust-through in the sheet metal. Plug all gaps in seams with refractory cement seam sealer.
Check the doors to make sure they fit well enough to cause resistance when you close the doors on and try to pull a dollar bill through around there edges.
Any cracks, holes, or seam gaps, or loose doors, will make it difficult to control the burn rate with the dampers.
Paul
If your going to use it, check it carefully for cracks in the cast iron and rust-through in the sheet metal. Plug all gaps in seams with refractory cement seam sealer.
Check the doors to make sure they fit well enough to cause resistance when you close the doors on and try to pull a dollar bill through around there edges.
Any cracks, holes, or seam gaps, or loose doors, will make it difficult to control the burn rate with the dampers.
Paul
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25749
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Yes. After you wire brush the inside of it clean.
You can use a flower pot, or similar shape, to make the inner wall of a mold and pour castable refractory into the gap between that pot and the inside of the cast iron firepot. Seal the bottom of the gap with cardboard laid on top of the grates. It will also set the right gap width on top of the grates so they don't bind on the liner, or leave too much gap that chunks of coal can get stuck in under the bottom edge of the liner. After it cures/dries then
just let the cardboard burn away.
Or use "ramset" type refractory, which is like the consistency of modeling clay. Roll it out to about an inch thick with a rolling pin, cut it into pieces and press it into place. Then smooth the seams closed with a wet finger.
Paul