Looking at a Glenwood Oak #20 ... Need help

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 10:31 am

franco b wrote:
Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 10:02 am
With bad grates I can't see more than $100, and that's assuming the fire pot is good.
+1.......I like it!


 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 10:32 am

keegs wrote:
Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 10:28 am
Do you think the bumper (just below the feed doors and above the ash pan door) can be shined up with some metal polish?

Thanks... Chris K.
That skirt (bumper) was originally nickel plated also. How well it will shine up depends on how much nickel is left on it. Can't tell how it will turn out until you try it.

Paul

 
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Post by keegs » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 10:34 am

Sunny Boy wrote:
Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 10:23 am

FYI, the Oaks were made to use the same type magazine as the base haters and modern oaks. In fact, the mag for the #6 Base Heater says "Oak" in the casting. This stove may be able to fit the recast mags that Paulie is having made. Depends on the diameter of the swing lid in under the bonnet, and the height from firebed to stove barrel top cover.

Paul
Thanks for the .pdf

 
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Post by keegs » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 11:16 am

Sunny Boy wrote:
Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 10:26 am
And if all the parts are usable for the optional back pipe, I'd go as high as $200.00. It would cost you more than $100.00 in parts to add a back pipe to a Glenwood that doesn't have one.

FYI,
If the back pipe is the 5 inch pipe size and the baffle is warped (common) Wilson makes a modified recast baffle that is designed to better resist warping than the original baffles can.

Paul
Paul. I'm pretty sure it's a 5" oval shaped back pipe. There's a kind of flange on the back of the stove with a stubby horizontal pipe coming out. This joins into the vertical oval shaped back pipe toward the top much like the image in the .pdf you posted (page sixtyeight). Not sure what kind of controls there are with that part of the stove. I'll have to research the back pipe and its use. I have a general sense that it's designed to goose the output while slowing the burn. I haven't checked out Wilson's website yet. Need to search for it.

Regards,

Chris K.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 12:28 pm

keegs wrote:
Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 11:16 am
Paul. I'm pretty sure it's a 5" oval shaped back pipe. There's a kind of flange on the back of the stove with a stubby horizontal pipe coming out. This joins into the vertical oval shaped back pipe toward the top much like the image in the .pdf you posted (page sixtyeight). Not sure what kind of controls there are with that part of the stove. I'll have to research the back pipe and its use. I have a general sense that it's designed to goose the output while slowing the burn. I haven't checked out Wilson's website yet. Need to search for it.

Regards,

Chris K.

Chris,

That's the size of the back pipes on the 114 and 116 Modern Oaks (the 118 Mod Oak uses 6 inch back pipe), so Wilson's modified baffle should fit. The back pipes also came in different lengths for the different sizes of stove barrels. You might have to trim some length off the bottom, or just use a longer length of new 5 inch pipe. Wilson has done a bunch of those, so he can give you more details.

The baffle divides the back pipe in half lengthwise-top to bottom. It has a damper in the top of that baffle.

To operate the back pipe there's a damper lever sticking out the side of the pipe near the top. You flip it one way and it lets the exhaust go directly from the stove collar to the stove pipe. Flip it to "indirect draft" and it closes off that short cut to the stove pipe and sends the exhaust down the front half of the back pipe,.. where it turns under the gap at the bottom of the baffle and goes up the back half of the back pipe to the stove pipe connection.

What looks like a casting that would let the exhaust go in under the ash pan area - like a base heater- is not. It's just a support base for the pipe. It does not open into the stove base. But, it may have a small cleanout door on the rear of it if it's like the Modern Oaks with a back pipe.

Paul

 
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Post by Pauliewog » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 3:22 pm

I would definitely go $200 for that stove. You can sandblast and buff the cast iron trim out to give it the appearance of a well maintained aged nickel patina.

The work will not be in vain if you decide to have it replated down the road. The major cost associated with nickel plating is the time involved to prep and buff out the parts.

Here is a link that may help you decide. Poor Man's Alternative to Nickel Plating

Paulie

 
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Post by keegs » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 4:06 pm

Pauliewog wrote:
Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 3:22 pm
I would definitely go $200 for that stove. You can sandblast and buff the cast iron trim out to give it the appearance of a well maintained aged nickel patina.

The work will not be in vain if you decide to have it replated down the road. The major cost associated with nickel plating is the time involved to prep and buff out the parts.

Here is a link that may help you decide. Poor Man's Alternative to Nickel Plating

Paulie
I wanted to do this with the castings on the Chubby. Thanks!


 
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Post by wilsons woodstoves » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 5:48 pm

Paul, the glenwood grand was the first(I think) to sport the oven. but lets not forget the 109. 111our morden glenwood. series.how about it tom and joe??????????????? wilson

 
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Post by philthy » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 6:49 pm

Keegs, for what it’s worth I’d give 200 for it and maybe a little bit more depending on pot condition. No doubt you’re a little concerned with what you’re getting into but after doing a couple of these projects I can tell you most things can be taken care of. And if you run into an issue there’s several members on here that are more than willing to help you out.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 6:53 pm

wilsons woodstoves wrote:
Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 5:48 pm
Paul, the glenwood grand was the first(I think) to sport the oven. but lets not forget the 109. 111our morden glenwood. series.how about it tom and joe??????????????? wilson
Your right, I forgot those have an oven well, also. :oops:

Paul

 
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Post by keegs » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 7:49 pm

philthy wrote:
Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 6:49 pm
Keegs, for what it’s worth I’d give 200 for it and maybe a little bit more depending on pot condition. No doubt you’re a little concerned with what you’re getting into but after doing a couple of these projects I can tell you most things can be taken care of. And if you run into an issue there’s several members on here that are more than willing to help you out.
Thanks phil... I'm sure that with this forum as a resource I'd have little trouble. :yes:

Not so sure about what's happening with this deal. The seller is asking much more than I think the stove is worth. While prices can seem all over the map, I've looked at a fair number of these oak stoves and I don't think this one is worth more than $300. At that price, after just replacing the grates I'll have $600 into it. It's also unclear to me whether there's other problems with it.

There's an Oak 30 a few miles from me, fully restored in excellent condition for $900. It even has the nickel plated top loading door. But of course it wouldn't be much of a project if what I'm buying is already restored.

So the seller isn't willing to come down. I'm going to give it some time and see if things change.

Chris K.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 8:04 pm

If the Oak 30 is a very good and thorough restoration then at $900.00 that's a good price. And being a bigger stove is a plus - your in the firepot size range of a 116 Modern Oak, or a #6 base heater - about 50 lbs of nut coal. More heat output capability, or run it slower and not need tending as often as the Oak 20 would.

If you still want a project, you'll have more than that in the Oak 20 by the time it's fully restored.


Paul

 
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Post by keegs » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 8:28 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 8:04 pm
If the Oak 30 is a very good and thorough restoration then at $900.00 that's a good price. And being a bigger stove is a plus - your in the firepot size range of a 116 Modern Oak, or a #6 base heater - about 50 lbs of nut coal. More heat output capability, or run it slower and not need tending as often as the Oak 20 would.

If you still want a project, you'll have more than that in the Oak 20 by the time it's fully restored.


Paul
Thanks Paul... good point. It's been a good exercise thus far just for what I'm learning about these antique stoves.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 8:55 pm

Plus,..... I'm not sure about the Oak 20, but the Oak 30 is more likely to be the right size for the GW #6 magazine project that Paulie is doing. ;)

Paul

 
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Post by wilsons woodstoves » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 10:07 pm

yes the 30 oak is a lot bigger stove and as paul said will take the #6 mag. they also take the same grate and gear as the wings best, and the wood plate for the base heater#6 is marked oak 30


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