Is a Galvanized barrel safe?
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Refinishing a Winner Oak stove, similar to a Round Oak stove with 14” fire pot. The stove was cleaned up and painted as a corner piece it looks like. Very thin coat of high temp paint was painted over a new barrel that was installed. When I test fired it in the yard the barrel at the base discolored to a powdery white. We have it all broken down and are sanding minor rust and resealing all joints that were never resealed. Upon sanding of the barrel, it revealed to be galvanized! I know burning galvanized steel is hazardous. Was this common for people to replace barrels with galvanized to avoid rotting? Is this barrel safe to use, if so, if we paint it with high temp paint will the galvanizing continue to burn and turn white with each use? If a new steel barrel is recommended, what gauge should I use? Not sure what this galvanized one is. Thanks for the help!
- windyhill4.2
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I have welded galvanized & it is a life threatening experience with the nasty smoke that comes off.I would not want to burn anything in a stove with a galvanized barrel.Someone was apparently ignorant of what burning galvanized does to have gone that route for the barrel.
- coaledsweat
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Has it been used as is? If the galvanizing survived and looks good, I don't see a problem. Seems bizarre though. Could you post some pics of the barrel's condition? Is it protected by firebrick/refractory?
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Heating it good and hot would get rid of the galvanized, but will warp it if not heated evenly.
It's a new stove to you. You may not like it, so avoiding extra expense is good. Galvanized smoke pipe has been used for many years, but does not get as hot as the stove barrel, which is why plain steel is recommended for wood stoves that have high stack temperatures.
If it were mine I would sand it good and paint with brush on high temp. paint to get a thicker coat than rattle can. Rustoleum is good. It's your call.
After using, and I really liked the stove I would plan on replacing the barrel. I think 22 gauge minimum, and it should have some beads rolled in to cope with expansion, as the originals do.,
It's a new stove to you. You may not like it, so avoiding extra expense is good. Galvanized smoke pipe has been used for many years, but does not get as hot as the stove barrel, which is why plain steel is recommended for wood stoves that have high stack temperatures.
If it were mine I would sand it good and paint with brush on high temp. paint to get a thicker coat than rattle can. Rustoleum is good. It's your call.
After using, and I really liked the stove I would plan on replacing the barrel. I think 22 gauge minimum, and it should have some beads rolled in to cope with expansion, as the originals do.,
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The barrel looked to have never been fired. Was painted with a very thin coat of paint. Here’s what it did when I burned it for the first time. I started sanding and the galvanizing revealed itself. Just wondering if it’s worth it to proceed or get a new raw steel one rolled.
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- freetown fred
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I'd run a couple wood fires--SMALL & slow-- once I got it back together in an open area & then use it. That's in real good shape W.
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how about standing it in a giant mound of all those oak leaves and burning the rest of it off ?
maybe...
maybe...
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Haha!!! I’m about ready to! This thing has been one road block after another
- windyhill4.2
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I wouldn't consider the health risk worth using the galvanized,a new plain steel barrel can't be more than galvanized lungs cost.
- coaledsweat
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Looks fired and lost some galvanizing to me. To the scrap pile with it.
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I’m thinking that barrel will not be re-joining us. I’m going to start calling around to see where I can get a new one rolled. As far as having 1 bead or 2 beads rolled, is it nesessary? It’s only a 14” stove. If so, were the beads just rolled around the back and stopped short of each end where the door frame would bolt? Is there a recommended gauge thickness? Thanks for all the input! Here’s some pics of the new paint job. Did one coat with Rutland spray, let air dry till it didn’t look wet and then applied a second coat. It’s pretty cold and didn’t have a heated garage to do it in. Hope it holds up. I might start a separate thread documenting how the project is going if anyone is interested with each step I’m doing.
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- freetown fred
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Start that new thread W. Curious minds need to see!! LOL
- Sunny Boy
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I agree with Windy and I'm glad to see that your doing the smart thing by not using the zinc-coated barrel. For anyone wanting to know more about why, look up "zinc fever".
It's not worth the risk. If that stove barrel had a too-hot fire the zinc could get hot enough to turn into zinc oxide fumes, which can make you very sick. It's already showing signs of being heat oxidized.
Sanding the zinc off would also release zinc dust - just as bad as the fumes. And painting over it would not prevent the zinc from fuming if it got hot enough.
Any good sheet metal shop should be able to roll a new barrel.
Paul
It's not worth the risk. If that stove barrel had a too-hot fire the zinc could get hot enough to turn into zinc oxide fumes, which can make you very sick. It's already showing signs of being heat oxidized.
Sanding the zinc off would also release zinc dust - just as bad as the fumes. And painting over it would not prevent the zinc from fuming if it got hot enough.
Any good sheet metal shop should be able to roll a new barrel.
Paul
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I was pretty baffled to discover that galvanized barrel. I can’t explain why they would have done that???? My whole life I have always heard how toxic burning galvanized metal is. The top 6” round stove top plate was nickel plated by the previous owners. During my test burn all the nickel bubbled and crackled. I’m just going to buy a new black iron plate. Seems there were a few things nickel plated or painted silver that should not have been. They Must have been looking to give her more “flare”.
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What would be a recommended gauge thickness for the new barrel? Is a bead nesessary for a stove this small? If so, how many, and where should they be placed? Thanks guys,
Nick
Nick