Hearth construction question
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Winneroak14
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- Joined: Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 6:54 am
- Baseburners & Antiques: Winner Oak No. 14 square base
We are in Michigan and have been reading through all the NFPA guidelines for the state for what kind of floor protection is needed for an antique stove install. My question is about how it keeps saying that a 24 gauge piece of sheet metal needs to be placed on top of the non combustible floor protection. I feel like I have never seen this installed under any antique stove I’ve ever seen and was wondering if They mean to have the metal down, then you can brick over that. It just seems to be overkill and was wondering what others have done. Thanks!
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franco b
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For years a sheet of asbestos with sheet metal covering was recommended, but that is no longer available.
The antique stoves were most often installed on just a sheet metal pan, or sometimes a bed of sand held in place by a wood border.
A sheet of metal is good, but it can be at the bottom rather than the top. I like a sheet of metal, followed by cement board, followed by ceramic tile or brick. 4 foot by 4 foot is good because it also leaves room for tools and coal scuttle as well.
A product called "Mycore" has high insulative value if you can find it. It probably is the only one that can meet strict standards.
Some years ago Vermont Castings changed around their showroom, and in moving stoves were surprised to find some scorch marks on the floor, even though they had been using slate or bluestone hearths.
The antique stoves were most often installed on just a sheet metal pan, or sometimes a bed of sand held in place by a wood border.
A sheet of metal is good, but it can be at the bottom rather than the top. I like a sheet of metal, followed by cement board, followed by ceramic tile or brick. 4 foot by 4 foot is good because it also leaves room for tools and coal scuttle as well.
A product called "Mycore" has high insulative value if you can find it. It probably is the only one that can meet strict standards.
Some years ago Vermont Castings changed around their showroom, and in moving stoves were surprised to find some scorch marks on the floor, even though they had been using slate or bluestone hearths.
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Winneroak14
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- Joined: Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 6:54 am
- Baseburners & Antiques: Winner Oak No. 14 square base
I was thinking something of the fire board and then tile over the sheet metal ideas as well. The NFPA didn’t mention whether you could do that or not, it’s kind of vague. I think that’s probably what most people do I guess. That’s crazy there were scorch marks on the floor in the Vermont Castings showroom through the slate and blue stone! My stove is on legs and I think the bottom of the box holding the ash pan is almost 4-6” from the floor. Thanks for ideas!
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Sunny Boy
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Scorched wood floor doesn't surprise me. Slate and tile are not good heat insulators. If you look at the code they do not allow for just masonry coverings as protection for combustible surfaces. There has to be some type of heat insulating material, or an air gap in between.
For under my GW #6 I was going to use some 4 foot square, inch+ thick slate, that I have from old sidewalks. But by the time I get it insulated from the floor I'll be tripping over the edge.
I picked up a hearth board at Lowes to use . It's only 5/8 inch thick so less likely to trip over. It's black painted sheet steel over 1/2 inch cement board - with the steel wrapped over the edges to protect the board from dings.
A 3 x 4 foot one was less than $80.00.
Paul
For under my GW #6 I was going to use some 4 foot square, inch+ thick slate, that I have from old sidewalks. But by the time I get it insulated from the floor I'll be tripping over the edge.
I picked up a hearth board at Lowes to use . It's only 5/8 inch thick so less likely to trip over. It's black painted sheet steel over 1/2 inch cement board - with the steel wrapped over the edges to protect the board from dings.
A 3 x 4 foot one was less than $80.00.
Paul