Winner Oak no.14 restoration help.
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- New Member
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 6:54 am
- Baseburners & Antiques: Winner Oak No. 14 square base
We have a stove very similar to a Round Oak. It’s called a Winner Oak No. 14 with a 14” firepot. I have scoured the world of the internet and haven’t found a single thing or another stove called this. There’s an emblem on the door with scrolled initials reading ISCO all layered on top of each other. The only thing I can think of is that it might be from the Indianapolis Stove Co., or the Independant Stove Co. from Owosso, Michigan. We are currently breaking it down and sanding minor rust off of it. Plan to install plastic refractory in the fire pot and seal all joints with Rutland stove cement. I have the refractory now. Is there any certain tricks to lining the pot? Should I form small 1” thick bricks and lay against wall from the pots top lip down to the grate and seal grate into firepot? The stove appears to be restored before we bought it and never used. Had very thin, layer of paint and no joints were sealed at all. Seemed to be thrown together and just a decorative piece. Was wondering if anyone has any info at all on this stove and any other tips or steps to restore her for full use other than what I’m planning on doing? Was plannbig on using rutland stove paint due to availability, or is another brand recommended? Thanks guys!
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- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25707
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Welcome, WO. Very pretty stove !
Easiest way is to roll out the refractory with a rolling pin to about 1 inch thick. Cut it into strips and press the strips into place tightly up against each other. Using a wet finger, smooth over the joints.
Make sure the inside of the pot is wire-brushed very clean or else the refractory won't stick well.
Follow the directions on the container to heat cure it with several small kindling fires, or a heat lamp hanging in the firepot for about 24 hours.
I've found the Rutland stove cement, when used for a joint sealer, gets too hard and after awhile it will not stick well. I use Hercules furnace cement that you can get at Lowes, or Home Depot.
Paul
Easiest way is to roll out the refractory with a rolling pin to about 1 inch thick. Cut it into strips and press the strips into place tightly up against each other. Using a wet finger, smooth over the joints.
Make sure the inside of the pot is wire-brushed very clean or else the refractory won't stick well.
Follow the directions on the container to heat cure it with several small kindling fires, or a heat lamp hanging in the firepot for about 24 hours.
I've found the Rutland stove cement, when used for a joint sealer, gets too hard and after awhile it will not stick well. I use Hercules furnace cement that you can get at Lowes, or Home Depot.
Paul
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- New Member
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 6:54 am
- Baseburners & Antiques: Winner Oak No. 14 square base
Thanks a lot Paul! How wide you’d recommend cutting the refractory into the strips? I guessing you kind of lay them in the firepot vertical similar to the ribs of a wood barrel kind of concept? I’ll have to try that Hercules cement. Would you recommend assemble after painting, and just sealing the interior of all barrel seams and not messing with the outside seams to avoid more painting? Thanks again!
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25707
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Cut the strips into whatever width is easiest for you to work into place. If the firepot is tapered you can cut the strips slightly wedge shaped. Either way the ramset is like working with modeling clay - you can press it into shape.
You want the sealer in the joints, where it will be held. Wherever possible, you don't want it just smeared over the joint because it will be more prone to flake off over time.
The Hercules is water soluble so you can clean off excess with a wet rag, or paper towels. And it's a tan color, so after it dries a bit you can blacken it with stove polish, or felt tipped pens.
Paul
You want the sealer in the joints, where it will be held. Wherever possible, you don't want it just smeared over the joint because it will be more prone to flake off over time.
The Hercules is water soluble so you can clean off excess with a wet rag, or paper towels. And it's a tan color, so after it dries a bit you can blacken it with stove polish, or felt tipped pens.
Paul