Baseburner internal check damper use

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scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 9:54 am

So it's extremely windy today with a current OAT of 31*, 30.10 and rising barometer and 33% humidity. The draft is bouncing up and down from .04 (no wind) to pegging the gauge at 1.2 My Stewart is screaming along on just the primary air coming in around the draw grate slot. You can see from the pictures it's completely buttoned up. The ash door and clinker door are gasketed with 700* silicone so no primary leaks.

So I pulled the internal check wide open and in 5 minutes or so she has calmed down quite a bit.

Today is exactly the type of day the designers of this stove meant the check to be used.

If she cools down excessively I can either open the primary a bit or close the check a bit or a combination of both.

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scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 10:00 am

After 5-10 minutes after fully opening the internal check damper.

Hopefully some other BB freaks will chime in with how they use their check :clap:

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franco b
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Post by franco b » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 10:21 am

The basically leaky stove design needed something to compensate for that and the internal check damper was a better safer way.

 
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Post by Pauliewog » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 10:39 am

Same conditions here Scott, running this morning with the check damper about 1/4 out.

On cold days when there is a strong draft, I open the internal check , and throw it into direct a minute, then open the ash door.

It sucks the fine fly ash right off the top and sides of the ash pan making the removal dust free.


Paulie

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 11:34 am

My G109 is chugging along. 275 at the top of the barrel, 130 on the flue about a foot above the stove. Primary open a bit. Mpd, secondary and internal check 100% closed. Baro is doing it's thing. House is a comfy 71.

 
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Canaan coal man
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Post by Canaan coal man » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 12:33 pm

Sorry for being a dumb farmer but what dose your internal check damper do again for the suspended pot stoves?

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 12:47 pm

It allows some primary air to bypass the pot and go directly into the rear flue. It helps idle the stove low on warm days and tame the draft on windy days.


 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 1:26 pm

Now if you want to really slow the fire on these you use the check damper and the over fire damper in the loading door.
The neat thing about the placement of these dampers is that when you use them you aren't sending cold air to compromise the combustion efficiency of the suspended fire pots. The secondary air damper in the loading door admits small streams of air which are heated quickly enough to encourage combustion of hydrocarbons released during the early stages of the combustion cycle of a freshly loaded batch of coal. The check damper below the fire diverts primary air up the back pipe without it ever touching the surface of the fire pot. The fire remains at the temperature required for it to burn the fuel at high levels of efficiencies. The excellent design of these stoves allows you to have your cake and eat it too, almost.

 
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Post by coalfan » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 1:53 pm

there you base burners go / WS has spoke live and learn from the best on that type of stove !!!!!!!!!!!

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 2:03 pm

So the manually operated internal check damper did/does for the antique stoves what the baro does for the modern stove ?

Both systems are limiting draft thru the firepot by introducing air into the exhaust?

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 2:13 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:
Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 2:03 pm
So the manually operated internal check damper did/does for the antique stoves what the baro does for the modern stove ?

Both systems are limiting draft thru the firepot by introducing air into the exhaust?

Yes, Dave.

But the check dampers on antique stoves typically have a much smaller opening than a baro.

When fully closed, my 6 inch baro still has enough air leaking gap around the butterfly plate to equal the amount of opening of the check damper on my range, ..... and more gap than the total opening of the check damper of my base heater. So, a baro can sometimes be overkill for some of these smaller firepot antiques.

And check dampers don't bang shut with gusty winds. :D

Paul

 
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Post by fifthg » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 2:29 pm

wsherrick wrote:
Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 1:26 pm
Now if you want to really slow the fire on these you use the check damper and the over fire damper in the loading door.
The neat thing about the placement of these dampers is that when you use them you aren't sending cold air to compromise the combustion efficiency of the suspended fire pots. The secondary air damper in the loading door admits small streams of air which are heated quickly enough to encourage combustion of hydrocarbons released during the early stages of the combustion cycle of a freshly loaded batch of coal. The check damper below the fire diverts primary air up the back pipe without it ever touching the surface of the fire pot. The fire remains at the temperature required for it to burn the fuel at high levels of efficiencies. The excellent design of these stoves allows you to have your cake and eat it too, almost.
My Peninsular hot blast 44 has an “ash out” lever,that opens a bypass from ash compartment directly to the chimney and around the pot.This is designed to suck ash out when shaking.I have learned to use that set up to help keep my stove idling.What a difference it made!As air tight as the stove is,my chimney draft still seems very strong,and it was hard to keep it idling until I tried this trick.

 
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Post by Canaan coal man » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 2:41 pm

tcalo wrote:
Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 12:47 pm
It allows some primary air to bypass the pot and go directly into the rear flue. It helps idle the stove low on warm days and tame the draft on windy days.
Ok nows i gets its.......... :clap: The G6's dont have anything that fancy i have secondary air and a external damper in the back of the stove to help with windy days thats it.

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 3:11 pm

fifthg wrote:
Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 2:29 pm
My Peninsular hot blast 44 has an “ash out” lever,that opens a bypass from ash compartment directly to the chimney and around the pot.This is designed to suck ash out when shaking.I have learned to use that set up to help keep my stove idling.What a difference it made!As air tight as the stove is,my chimney draft still seems very strong,and it was hard to keep it idling until I tried this trick.
I don't use the check when shaking down simply because it ends up depositing quite a bit of fly ash in my 36 inch section of horizontal stove pipe. I do open it when I remove the COLD ashes though as it keeps the dust from exiting the ash pan drawer on removal of the ashpan.

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 3:43 pm

Canaan coal man wrote:
Fri. Nov. 10, 2017 2:41 pm
Ok nows i gets its.......... The G6's dont have anything that fancy i have secondary air and a external damper in the back of the stove to help with windy days thats it.
The G6 is a tighter stove, with a positive latch for the ash door as opposed to a lift over latch that requires more play in the hinge pins, Less need for further draft control, but it would be nice to have also.


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