Fuller & Warren

 
jthorell
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Post by jthorell » Sat. Oct. 28, 2017 8:57 pm

It is my first post here but reading several of these columns assures me that there is an abundance of knowledge to alleviate my ignorance.
I recently paid to have my grandfathers Fuller & Warren "Splendid" restored. I am having trouble locating a boot or adapter for it. The outlet is oval shaped and 4 1/4 wide X 7 1/4 long. I am plumbed for 8' pipe but could go to 6". Any input is appreciated. Once I get that solved I plan on firing it up. There are no instructions so I guess trial and error will be enforce. I will have a damper on the pipe but there is also a draft control and a lever for the base burn feature. I have heated with wood for 25 years but at 58 I am getting tired of cutting wood although I farm for a living and have plenty of hardwood here in SW Wisconsin. My wife and I are looking forward to this new chapter in heating.

Thanks for any advice.


 
fifthg
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Post by fifthg » Sat. Oct. 28, 2017 9:24 pm

I think you can take your 6” stove pipe,and with care and patience,form it to the oval shape and it should fit your outlet.Measure the circumference of the oval to be sure and use a pipe of the same circumference.It will fit.You can also find pre-formed oval adapters at stove shops or hardware stores.

 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 7:57 am

jthorell wrote:
Sat. Oct. 28, 2017 8:57 pm
I will have a damper on the pipe but there is also a draft control and a lever for the base burn feature. I have heated with wood for 25 years but at 58 I am getting tired of cutting wood although I farm for a living and have plenty of hardwood here in SW Wisconsin.
There is others more knowledgeable that can give you specifics about operating this with coal but generally speaking the big difference between wood and coal is you have much more control of the heat output. The biggest mistake people switching from wood make is not using enough fuel. Coal burns best with a deep bed, once you have a fire established don't be afraid to fill it up. The amount of fuel is largely irrelevant as long as you have enough of it, the burn rate is controlled by the air flow.

To better explain this on these larger hand fired stoves that have very big fire boxes you can get two days burn time with the air setting all the way down. You may not be getting much heat but the point is you can only do that if you fill it all the way up.

Coal is slow to start and slow to stop compared to wood. Adjustments on the air are not instant, there will be learning curve here. Most people get on schedule of filling it in the morning and adjust the air so it burns up most of the coal leaving enough so they can reload in the evening.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 9:32 am

Welcome JT.

There's a lot of info on lighting, and maintaining a coal fire in these two threads.

How to Light a Hand Fired Coal Stove
Basics of a Hand Fired Coal Stove

If a standard stove pipe won't form to fit on that oval pipe collar, a sheet metal shop can make a tapered pipe adapter, or some of the stove restoration shops sell the tapered pipes. I don't see it listed on their webpage now but Bryant Stove sold them. They may still have some.

https://www.bryantstoves.com/


Paul

 
jthorell
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Baseburners & Antiques: Fuller & Warren "Splendid"
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Post by jthorell » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 10:11 am

Thanks guys for offering the needed advice.

Fifthg. I tried using a standard 6" this AM and I am short about 1/2" . That is just too far to go around the lip on the stove outlet. Perhaps if I loosened the seam on the end a bit but I worry about an air leak. I may end up just jury rigging something myself if I can't source the school solution.

Richard. Thank you for commenting. My stove has a big barrel on top. I am assuming that is how the stove is to be replenished versus opening the side doors by the grate? The instruction manual has log gone the way of the buffalo as have my granddad and my father so there has been a lot of head scratching as we hook the stove up.
How smokey are coal stoves? My wood burners always let a little smoke in the house no matter how updated the gaskets and cement.

Sunnyboy. I will contact Bryant. My well established sheet metal shop informed me they recently cleaned house and sold their machine that they used to custom make boots and pipes for decades. They gave me a number down in the Capitol for a stainless shop, but I feel there has to be an easier/cheaper alternative.

 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 10:29 am

I'll leave the questions for loading it and firing it to others, there is a lot of people on here familiar with them.
jthorell wrote:
Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 10:11 am
How smokey are coal stoves?
If you are using anthracite there is no "smoke". You are going to have light grey flay ash and most of that will settle in the flue pipes and the bottom of the chimney. It's usually a good idea to use a T instead of an elbow where you can, this way you can understand how much of this ash is accumulating in the pipes and have easy access to clean it out without having to take the pipes apart. Most people will only clean this out at the end of the season when they disassemble the flue pipes but each stove is different. This is the most important maintenance with a coal stove, that ash will eventually block the flue.

My wood burners always let a little smoke in the house no matter how updated the gaskets and cement.
You might get a little gas in the house when loading but this should not occur during normal operation. Makes sure you have a CO2 detector.

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 10:41 am

Pictures of your stove would help.

With a piece of string measure around the oval outlet to get the circumference. Divide that number by 3.1416 to get the needed pipe size.

You can make an adapter using a two foot length of oversize pipe. Cut off the seam folds and holding it around the oval, mark the overlap position. Do the same at the other end for the pipe size you want to use. Rivett or use self tapping screws to assemble.

Coal (anthracite) does not smoke but what is worse it can produce carbon monoxide gas (CO) which you can't detect and which can be deadly. So first order of business is to get one or more CO detectors. You will be starting the coal fire with wood, so draft should be well established by the time you are ready to begin adding coal in small amounts to gradually fill the fire pot until full.


 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 10:58 am

jthorell wrote:
Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 10:11 am
Thanks guys for offering the needed advice.

Fifthg. I tried using a standard 6" this AM and I am short about 1/2" . That is just too far to go around the lip on the stove outlet. Perhaps if I loosened the seam on the end a bit but I worry about an air leak. I may end up just jury rigging something myself if I can't source the school solution.

Richard. Thank you for commenting. My stove has a big barrel on top. I am assuming that is how the stove is to be replenished versus opening the side doors by the grate? The instruction manual has log gone the way of the buffalo as have my granddad and my father so there has been a lot of head scratching as we hook the stove up.
How smokey are coal stoves? My wood burners always let a little smoke in the house no matter how updated the gaskets and cement.

Sunnyboy. I will contact Bryant. My well established sheet metal shop informed me they recently cleaned house and sold their machine that they used to custom make boots and pipes for decades. They gave me a number down in the Capitol for a stainless shop, but I feel there has to be an easier/cheaper alternative.
Yup, about a 1/2 inch short, or more, is what many of the old stoves and ranges oval pipe collars were that were meant to use a tapered pipe to connect to 6 inch stove pipe. My 1903 range is like that.

Pictures would not only help us to help you, .... we love to see pictures of antique stoves !!!!! :D

Paul

 
jthorell
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Location: Wonewoc, Wisconsin
Baseburners & Antiques: Fuller & Warren "Splendid"
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite
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Post by jthorell » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 3:02 pm

Paul:

I will snap a few when the Frau gets home from work tonight.

Jon

 
jthorell
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Location: Wonewoc, Wisconsin
Baseburners & Antiques: Fuller & Warren "Splendid"
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite
Other Heating: Forced air propane

Post by jthorell » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 3:16 pm

Franco & Richard:
Thank you both for chiming in.
If I can't locate an adapter by mid week then I will take your suggestion and fabricate on myself (Into a T vs elbow)

 
jthorell
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Posts: 36
Joined: Sat. Oct. 28, 2017 7:37 pm
Location: Wonewoc, Wisconsin
Baseburners & Antiques: Fuller & Warren "Splendid"
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite
Other Heating: Forced air propane

Post by jthorell » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 9:26 pm

Here is my stove. It was in my Grandfathers basement for years and it would blow us out of there on holidays because there was a summer kitchen down there as well. Everyone would have to seek refuge to the cooler spaces upstairs. My Father had it stored since the early 90's. I inherited several years ago and brought it to Madison Stove in Madison,WI last year. I spent $2200 having it reconditioned. I am exited to get it going as soon as I am done picking corn next month. Problem is - I am completely ignorant so thank goodness I found this website. What an age we are blessed to live in.

Jon

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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 10:38 pm

It's beautiful, JT.

Nice big doors and fire viewing windows almost like a lighthouse. Other than that, it'll operate very much like any other coal parlor stove.

Do you have a source of anthracite chestnut or stove sized coal ?

The "draw center" type grate can be a bit tricky at first to learn the, "when and how much" to dump ash before it gets past the crumbly stage and hardens up into clinkers. There's several guys on here with stoves that have the same type grate system that can help you with that.

Paul

 
jthorell
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Joined: Sat. Oct. 28, 2017 7:37 pm
Location: Wonewoc, Wisconsin
Baseburners & Antiques: Fuller & Warren "Splendid"
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite
Other Heating: Forced air propane

Post by jthorell » Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 11:48 pm

Paul:
We have 1 place (Neshkoro, Wi) in central part of state that sells anthracite for $300 per ton. I have not been there yet but they advertise three sizes, rice, nut & stove. Which size do I want?
Thanks
jt

 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Mon. Oct. 30, 2017 12:07 am

What you have here is what is called a, "Globe Heater." These were insanely popular in the 1870's and I'm sure this one dates from that decade. This stove is STRICTLY an Anthracite burning stove. Anything else will not work well at all and to burn wood in this stove would ruin it. It probably takes a 5" diameter pipe. ,5" to 6" adapters are easily found at most stove shops. Once you become familiar with its operation, it will serve you well and you also will be amazed at how much heat these things produce.
Oh, this stove will take "chestnut sized coal," as the best size for it.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Oct. 30, 2017 12:23 am

jthorell wrote:
Sun. Oct. 29, 2017 11:48 pm
Paul:
We have 1 place (Neshkoro, Wi) in central part of state that sells anthracite for $300 per ton. I have not been there yet but they advertise three sizes, rice, nut & stove. Which size do I want?
Thanks
jt
Rice is too small, it won't breath well enough to keep burning in that deep of a firepot. You'd have to keep the firebed shallow and then you'd not get as much heat out of the stove.

Either nut or stove will work - with minor differences in how they react. Since each stove and chimney system can respond differently, you might want to start with a few bags of each and try both sizes to see which works best for your setup.

The stove will hold about 10% more pounds of nut size. But with smaller air spaces around nut coal it will restrict airflow a bit more than it would with stove coal, therefore nut will burn slower. Good to use if you have a strong drafting chimney system.

Because of the larger air spaces around stove coal, the stove will breath easier, therefore it can burn faster producing more heat output, but likely need refueling sooner than with nut size. Stove coal is good if the chimney draft is marginal and needs a bit of help.

And some coal stove owners find that a mix of stove and nut works very well in their setup.

Paul


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