Troubles With Kitchen Coal Stove Draft

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Mar. 10, 2018 4:39 pm

Received & appreciated C. :)


 
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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Sat. Mar. 10, 2018 6:04 pm

And your chimney flues are among the cleanest I've ever seen! :yes:

Santa

 
coalstovelady
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Post by coalstovelady » Sat. Mar. 10, 2018 7:24 pm

Paulie, it is so wonderful to see you on here. Long time no see! Thank you so much for all you have done for me. I got another kitchen stove to replace the other one. I think it will work out for my needs. It's a Jenn Air duel fuel range. Of course nothing compares to my kitchen coal stove but this one is very nice. It has a flush back with a big cut out for the gas and electric hook up. I'm waiting for the plumber. Who knows, maybe some day I'll have a Bed and Breakfast in the Carriage House and serve the guests dinner in my dining room cooking on both stoves. :) Give me a call when you aren't so busy. Thank you for verifying my wonderful chimneys. :yes:

 
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Pauliewog
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska 140 Dual Paddle Feed
Baseburners & Antiques: Fame Rosemont #20, Home Stove Works #25, Glenwood #6, Happy Thought Oak, Merry Bride #214, Sunnyside, Worlds Argand #114, New Golden Sun , & About 30 others.
Coal Size/Type: Stove, Chesnut, Pea, Rice / Anthracite

Post by Pauliewog » Sat. Mar. 10, 2018 8:09 pm

Nice, I'm happy you were able to find one that fits close to the wall.

Been busy this winter with projects around the house and hopefully in a few weeks I'll get caught up........ Yeah right. :lol:

You only go around once, I think your Carriage House would make an outstanding Bed and Breakfast so ............ Follow your dream and make it happen !

Paulie

 
coalstovelady
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Post by coalstovelady » Sat. Mar. 10, 2018 8:42 pm

Thanks Paulie!

 
coalstovelady
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Post by coalstovelady » Sun. Mar. 18, 2018 9:56 am

Here is an article I cut from the newspaper. Coal prices here in NEPA are $200/ton. When I moved here in 1977 I was paying $50/ton. I loved my Kewanee Furnace and still love my Beechwood Kitchen Coal Stove. It is wonderful to cook on and keeps things warm and toasty. Being I have a very large home I still need a furnace and since my Kewanee died after 100 years, I do now have a gas furnace. I never complained one time shoveling and carrying ashes from my Kewanee furnace. The only thing that kept it going was me! No added electric costs either. Hot domestic water all the time and a very warm (almost 4000 sq. feet) home. Have a nice day to all my friends!

http://www.pressenterpriseonline.com/apnews/coal- ... eat-source
Last edited by Rob R. on Sun. Mar. 18, 2018 9:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Replaced body of article with link to source.

 
coalstovelady
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Post by coalstovelady » Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 9:15 pm

Hello. Can anyone explain to me how to bleed a radiator. I never had noisy radiators in all the years I am in my home. I noticed lately one very large radiator sounds like it has water in it. I have a steam heat system. It shouldn't sound like that. When I had the new gas furnace put in several years ago the plumber changed the (I call them 'vents') on the radiators. I wish he hadn't but he did. I shouldn't be hearing a water sound but I do in this one radiator - not all the time - just now and then. I seem to remember when I had my office - not my house - which also had a steam heat system, I had to do something with the vent or valve and then it stopped. If you can explain this, please do. Thank you. .... I hope you all are toasty warm. We still have cold weather in NEPA. My kitchen coal stove is great. I'll be looking forward to seeing Paulie in the spring. He's talking about polishing my nickle and I'd also like my fire box refurbished. Spring will soon be here. Have a Happy Easter everybody!


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 9:26 pm

If I'm following you, those, as you referred to, vents--your plumber should of left a little key for bleeding--pix would be real helpful. Hopin that helped.

 
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Post by franco b » Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 9:35 pm

Usually with water in the radiator or pipe it will cause water hammer, which does sound like someone hitting the pipe with a hammer as the radiator tries to heat. Is that radiator getting heat?

If the radiator vent valve is failing to open when cool it could trap some water in the radiator. If there is no water hammer I would suspect the valve.

 
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Post by franco b » Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 9:37 pm

freetown fred wrote:
Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 9:26 pm
If I'm following you, those, as you referred to, vents--your plumber should of left a little key for bleeding--pix would be real helpful. Hopin that helped.
She said it was a steam system, so no key.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 10:12 pm

Thanx Richard, I missed it-- that's why I threw the "if I'm followin ya" in there.

 
coalstovelady
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Post by coalstovelady » Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 10:38 pm

Thank you all for replying to me. No, my plumber didn't leave me a key. I will take a photo of my "vent" or "valve" and post it. Then you will know what I am referring to. Some time ago I had posted photos of the ones my plumber removed and I saved. I'm sentimental about old things so I was very disappointed that they were replaced because my original ones were beautiful. ... Let me try and address some of the other comments. There is no sound like a hammer. It sounds like water inside the radiator. Gurgling type sound like if I would be pouring from a jug - does that description make sense? Yes, the radiator gets hot. It is very large radiator and that heat rises to the second floor open staircase. OK Franco - I just read your post. It is a steam system so I guess that is why I have no key. ?

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 11:23 pm

With no steam pressure and burner turned off you can unscrew the vent valve counter clockwise. See if you can blow through it with it cool. Blowing through the threaded part. you might put one of your old valves on to see if the problem goes away.

Putting a shim under the air valve end of the radiator might help it to drain easier as well.

 
coalstovelady
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Post by coalstovelady » Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 11:36 pm

Franco b - I'm trying to understand your instructions. What does blowing through the threaded part reveal? ...... What can I use as a "shim" and where under the air valve? Is that end the other side of the radiator from the vent valve? I'm a bit confused? Perhaps I am tired and will read all of this in the morning. Thank you very much.

 
franco b
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Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Wed. Mar. 28, 2018 8:37 am

coalstovelady wrote:
Tue. Mar. 27, 2018 11:36 pm
Franco b - I'm trying to understand your instructions. What does blowing through the threaded part reveal? ...... What can I use as a "shim" and where under the air valve? Is that end the other side of the radiator from the vent valve? I'm a bit confused? Perhaps I am tired and will read all of this in the morning. Thank you very much.
Any shim would go under the feet of the radiator at the same end as the vent. The idea is to give it some pitch or tilt toward the pipe that supplies the steam, to help it drain better. The vent end should be slightly higher than the other end. If you have a level you could check the pitch of the radiator by placing the level on top of it. If out of level or pitched the wrong way, the level will show it and also how much the radiator needs to be raised on one end to have a slight pitch toward the intake pipe that supplies the steam.

The shim could be a thin piece of wood or metal washers placed under the feet of the radiator at the vent end. With an old house the floor might very well be out of level causing the radiator to be pitched slightly the wrong way. That in turn would allow some water to be trapped in the radiator causing the gurgling sound.

Since the radiator still heats the vent valve is probably good, so check the pitch or tilt of the radiator first. It might only need a 1/4 inch or so of the end raised, to drain properly.

To raise a heavy radiator a bit to place shins, you would need a wood 2 by 4 and a thin board to act as a fulcrum for the 2 by 4 lever. Someone standing on the end of a 6 or 8 foot lever should easily lift the radiator enough to place shins.

I am assuming you have a one pipe steam system, which means there is only one pipe connected to the radiator.


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