Glenwood 114 Question
- philthy
- Member
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 9:15 pm
- Location: Newville PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoke Koker Lite, Alaska Kast Konsole
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6, Glenwood #116 x 2, Crawford 40
Found this Glenwood for sale on craigslist. The question I have is about this gas burner. Admittedly I'm not well education on these stoves but I took this as a converted gas burner - seller says not.
Just wanted to see what you guys thought of it.
**Broken Link(S) Removed**
Just wanted to see what you guys thought of it.
**Broken Link(S) Removed**
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- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25729
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
One of my GW 118s has that same secondary air gas burner in the loading door. The other 118 doesn't have the burner - just the damper, and it doesn't have the mica windows.
Both doors say 118 cast right into the door.
It's actually an air defuser. By having the air come in though many smaller holes, instead of through a damper with fewer and larger holes, the air streams quickly get redirected straighter over the firebed. Thus helping reduce, or eliminate any dead areas caused by air turbulence.
The same principal is used in some other types of air intake system designs to "cheat" when there isn't enough distance to allow the air streams to naturally straighten out and be more evenly distributed.
Paul
Both doors say 118 cast right into the door.
It's actually an air defuser. By having the air come in though many smaller holes, instead of through a damper with fewer and larger holes, the air streams quickly get redirected straighter over the firebed. Thus helping reduce, or eliminate any dead areas caused by air turbulence.
The same principal is used in some other types of air intake system designs to "cheat" when there isn't enough distance to allow the air streams to naturally straighten out and be more evenly distributed.
Paul
- philthy
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- Posts: 163
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 9:15 pm
- Location: Newville PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoke Koker Lite, Alaska Kast Konsole
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6, Glenwood #116 x 2, Crawford 40
Thanks for the help! After posting I did a little more looking and saw that this was part of the stove. Thanks SB for the explanation!
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I followed the link and asked for some pics of grates and firepot and sent me a few might do the same as he has them on his phone if interested. They looked ok to my untrained eyes.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25729
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
That paint looks rather glossy. I'd make sure it's high temp stove paint able to take up to 1200 F.
If it's just automotive paint with a catalyst, it's only good for about 600F. If it's plain air-dry enamel, not even that high.
Paul
If it's just automotive paint with a catalyst, it's only good for about 600F. If it's plain air-dry enamel, not even that high.
Paul
- philthy
- Member
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 9:15 pm
- Location: Newville PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoke Koker Lite, Alaska Kast Konsole
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6, Glenwood #116 x 2, Crawford 40
This is one of the photos of the grates the seller sent me. I thought they looked a little rough. And my thought on the paint were the same and that it looked very pitted and that was just from a picture.
Figured I'd let that one go. Struck a deal with a restorer in Vermont that better suits what I want to do. It's all complete with back pipe, good grates, and he's throwing in a wood grate.
Figured I'd let that one go. Struck a deal with a restorer in Vermont that better suits what I want to do. It's all complete with back pipe, good grates, and he's throwing in a wood grate.
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- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25729
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
A little rough ? Those grates are badly warped. They won't be able to clear ash and clinkers as well as they were designed to. Plus, a lot of coal will fall though the too-wide gaps created by the warped grate bars. Been there, done it, and would never again !!!!
Good find in Vermont. The back pipe is a real plus. And while it's not an absolute necessity, having a wood makes wood burning better.
Paul
Good find in Vermont. The back pipe is a real plus. And while it's not an absolute necessity, having a wood makes wood burning better.
Paul
- philthy
- Member
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 9:15 pm
- Location: Newville PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoke Koker Lite, Alaska Kast Konsole
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6, Glenwood #116 x 2, Crawford 40
SB I was trying to be nice! Lol The grates I could've worked with but not for the price offered. Anxious to get the other one to say the least.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25729
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Believe me those grates would not "work". All you could do is slightly shake them and watch good burning coal fall through the gaps as you tried to clear other areas of ash to get the firepot to burn evenly.philthy wrote:SB I was trying to be nice! Lol The grates I could've worked with but not for the price offered. Anxious to get the other one to say the least.
Then you'd have to shut down the stove every couple of weeks to clear the bed of clinkers that have fused together growing too large to pass through even the widest gaps,... until the lower half of the firebox was just all clinkers and no fuel. Then the stove is only putting out about half the heat it is capable of while the uneven burning from a shallower and uneven breathing firebed is wasting coal.
I tried to live with grates that bad for many years while I searched for replacements. I finally got fed up and worked on one halfway decent grate bar and made it into a pattern to have new ones recast. The difference in how the stove preforms is amazing !!!!!
Paul
- wsherrick
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Those grates aren't just a little rough. They have passed on to that great scrap yard in the sky.
These would have to be replaced before the stove would be usable.
I am very glad you have found a stove out there to give a home to. You will love it and I hope that we can see it when you get it.
These would have to be replaced before the stove would be usable.
I am very glad you have found a stove out there to give a home to. You will love it and I hope that we can see it when you get it.
- philthy
- Member
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 9:15 pm
- Location: Newville PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoke Koker Lite, Alaska Kast Konsole
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6, Glenwood #116 x 2, Crawford 40
I guess what I meant by making them work SB was getting the stove cheap enough and scrapping the grates. I have experience with warped grates myself on a Hitzer. They weren't near as bad as that Glenwood but still was no fun.Sunny Boy wrote:Believe me those grates would not "work". All you could do is slightly shake them and watch good burning coal fall through the gaps as you tried to clear other areas of ash to get the firepot to burn evenly.philthy wrote:SB I was trying to be nice! Lol The grates I could've worked with but not for the price offered. Anxious to get the other one to say the least.
Then you'd have to shut down the stove every couple of weeks to clear the bed of clinkers that have fused together growing too large to pass through even the widest gaps,... until the lower half of the firebox was just all clinkers and no fuel. Then the stove is only putting out about half the heat it is capable of while the uneven burning from a shallower and uneven breathing firebed is wasting coal.
I tried to live with grates that bad for many years while I searched for replacements. I finally got fed up and worked on one halfway decent grate bar and made it into a pattern to have new ones recast. The difference in how the stove preforms is amazing !!!!!
Paul
- philthy
- Member
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 9:15 pm
- Location: Newville PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoke Koker Lite, Alaska Kast Konsole
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #6, Glenwood #116 x 2, Crawford 40
Yes sir I plan to share as I go. I've read thru member SteveZee's restore thread a couple times and will use it as a guide for mine. It'll be a bit till I get it as the fella needed some time to get it all together. That and it might work out with a delivery he has coming my way if I can stand to wait that long.wsherrick wrote:Those grates aren't just a little rough. They have passed on to that great scrap yard in the sky.
These would have to be replaced before the stove would be usable.
I am very glad you have found a stove out there to give a home to. You will love it and I hope that we can see it when you get it.
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25729
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Remember the rule - pictures or it didn't happen !
Paul
Paul